robdyck

I'll add one. Here's my most recent rendering.

Not a frustration share, but rather I was wondering if someone else had a solution to this using Chief's settings. There's been times where I've built my own soffits using ceiling planes, p-solids, or 3d moldings. I've only done this when an accurate rendering has been required by the client. Otherwise I clean it up in layout. The plan is posted.. helgeson 2018.zip

This has to have been discussed in length somewhere, but I couldn't find anything. I've got this problem on every plan, so it's either the program or my roof settings. The soffit won't miter accurately. There's alway a small wedge sticking out where a boxed gable soffit meets a boxed eave soffit.

There's no 'button' to click to reverse a freize, base, or crown molding. You'll need to create a CAD drawing of the molding in the reverse state, and add it to your library, or draw a 3d molding that gives you more control.

I hear what you're saying but in the image you'll see why a white line doesn't work. I do everything in color.

The whole view.

This is only a year late, but here's a portion of my version of a 'pretty drawing' in a reasonable time frame. It takes several steps, and a combination of formal drawings, camera views, and transparent fills, and, oh yeah, not one of Chief's default settings for anything.

None of our business. I'd suggest getting it close, than making the adjustments manually, then clicking 'retain wall framing' to lock it. It can take longer playing with Chief's settings to try to get it 'right' than doing it yourself, but then again, I don't know what your end goals are. Is it just for visualization or do you need to produce framing diagrams for this wall? I do have a couple of other suggestions (that you may already be aware of so forgive me if it's a moot point): -use the grid to layout your plan accurately on x and y axis. Or turn it off. Locate ZERO and move the whole building so it starts (bottom left corner) there. This will place your studs and rafters more accurately seeing as there's no framing reference marker used. -dimension accurately. No framer (or anyone else) wants a wall that's 24'-11.48893746" -if you're producing a framing diagram of the gable end wall, the framing should be symmetrical from the center. It's easier to cut sheathing to fit the wall, then have different sizes of mitered studs.

Your window method intrigues me. I've played around with developing my own window symbols but haven't had the time to complete anything. That would really help with accurate modelling as I do a lot of my details in 3D.

Thanks Michael, I figured I'd need to do that. That's how I make folding glass walls ( like Nana Wall or Panoramic Doors) appear accurately.

Does anyone know how to show a door in elevation view without an opening indicator. Example, a fixed sidelite as part of an entry door unit. I currently just delete the line with the 'edit layout' tool. Obviously this little task has to be repeated...

I believe that in the framing tab for the o/h door, if you set the bottom R.O. to match the slab depth, then the slab will extend to the foundation walls exterior layer.

Exactly. However, perhaps GDB means is that he doesn't need to draw 'how' to build the cabinet; but rather just 'to' build a cabinet. In that case, I wouldn't waste time trying to get to technical with the drawing unless I know the cabinet builder in questions is actually needing those types of details. Like Michael says, to draw it 'exactly' you have to know exactly how it gets built. Then you need to find a supplier who agrees with you. Typically the drafts person is no longer involved at this stage of a project...

Otherwise, you'll need to build a symbol, or literally build the cabinet with p-solids and place the door as a freestanding object

I'd probably use a typical rectangle base cabinet to get the correct door width at the front. Add partitions as panels to surround the back of the island, then I'd draw a polyline with solid fill to cover my fake cabinet. That way it would look correct in plan view, elevations, and renderings (except for inside the cabinet).

Open the foundation wall dbx, go to "Structure" tab, check "go through floor below".

Generally speaking, yes. There are several factors that come into play, obviously, however I discuss it with the builder and/or client and then we decide together which path they'd like to use. Most people will choose to go prescriptive because (generally) it is the cheapest and simplest way to comply with 9.36. There are no limitations on glass area, which is helpful from a design point of view, and the extra costs are spent on insulation, instead of paperwork (the extra costs are almost identical). The upgrade to R-22 fiberglass batts for above grade walls is about $250-300 per house (Medicine Hat) and the increase from R40 to R50 attic insulation is about $250 (Medicine Hat). It also means I can finish my plans in a more timely fashion, as I don't need to wait for an Energy Advisor to have their input and possibly make changes late in the design stage.

Gerard, have you opened the Nvidia control panel to make sure that Chief X10 is using the graphics card, and not the processor?

Not to be argumentative, but that's not entirely true. A qualified energy advisor is only "required" if a performance path is the compliance method for section 9.36. You can specify everything yourself if you follow the "prescriptive" method. I am aware that many designers outsource this as well. I've had no trouble with providing the proper information on the plans for a "prescriptive method" through many jurisdictions in alberta, and in BC.

I don't mean this to be offensive but it seems odd that you'd consult with an Energy Advisor regarding the area of glazed openings relative to the effective wall area. If you post the plan, or a screenshot of the wall in question, I could help you out.

If you're going to use the wall area the way Chief will calculate it then you will be providing incorrect information that would not comply with the Alberta Building Code. The information you're talking about needs to be calculated manually and is measured from the grade level at each affected wall. Or, you'd need much more in depth knowledge of the program to develop your own auto calculating methods and macros, which, if you need to ask about, then you don't have it. Life - safety issues like fire protection need to be taken seriously.

1) to get the seams correct, you'll need to do virtually what the siding installer would do...cut and install individual pieces! Material regions or p-solids. Not what you wanted to hear but I've been there. 3) window reflections are the source of my premature grey hair! Trial and error...

I solved this issue for myself many years ago. In my opinion, the answer to this is a bi-directional layout title block. It may stretch your grpahic design skills but this will save you from ever needing to think about it again. Keep in mind that there's not a lot weirder than a plan drawn sideways or backwards or upside down. The "front" of the building should ALWAYS be at the bottom of your screen, and subsequently, your paper. When you have a structure that needs it's layout box rotated, no big deal because your layout template has 2 bottoms, the actual bottom, and the right hand side of the sheet. On site, even a cribber can figure out how to turn a sheet of paper (only one though)!

Actually quite simple. Build the ramp and sidewalk portions using roof planes in a separate new file. Make all your adjustments, then convert to symbol and place in your plan. Use a terrain hole to cut the surrounding roads / sidewalks.

The fastest way is to build it yourself. If you know exactly how all the framing and finishing will work together, then it's fairly quick to build it manually using p-solids and moldings, and then your plan views will match your section views, and renderings and details etc. You'll only have to do it once (unless the client request changes). I usually leave this step until I'm sure the decisions are close to finalized.