robdyck

I just completed some renderings with B&B on every wall. The correct look requires slightly different spacings to achieve correct centering at windows, doors, gable ends etc. I used the material region technique mentioned, and did every wall separately, provided 8 different versions to the client all in about 7 hours. I needed the shadows to look correct which means a 3D object as opposed to a flat pattern. It's quick if you want it to be. In this case, the budget for my work was predetermined so I had to deliver acceptable results while still making $. Below is 1 of 40 renderings (8 versions of 5 saved cameras, each with different solar angles and lighting).

I know how to make them perfectly using Chief's tools but it's way too complicated to describe in a post. I'd jump all over Joe's offer, unless you work for under $10/hour:) and don't mind spending a whole day on it! You'd feel like a genius when all you have to do is import a perfectly fitting symbol!

That too. In my area, I need to show percentages for several items: -building area (as defined by our building code) -building footprint (as defined by local zoning bylaws) -impervious site coverage -glass to wall area ratios on certain elevations (relating to fire codes) -percentages of finish materials (as required by architectural review boards) and more...

In the walls dbx, General Tab, check "foundation wall". Structure Tab, check "bearing wall"

Does anyone know of a way to get an automatic percentage calculation for something like site coverage? I have macros to display the area of the site and footprints of the structures (using polylines), but I also need to show the percentage of coverage. I hate doing this manually because I'm human and I occasionally enter a typo. The same thing applies to other parts of a plan, like displaying the percentage of windows on the elevation of a home, or the percentage of cladding types. These are just a few examples of where percentages need to be shown for permitting authorities.

use a ramp to make the railing. You can manipulate all of its settings to get the rail where you'd like and keep the actual ramp invisible.

They're nothing special. Just CAD lines that you'd assign to their own layer with their own layer style. You'd use them to establish a story-pole of often and consistently used dimensions. Example (for cabinet elevations): start with a line at your finished floor, copy at the height of the toe kick, the countertop, underside of wall cabinets, or light rail, underside of range hood, top of wall cabinet, top of crown moulding, underside of finished ceiling. You can build it once, with dimensions or elevation markers and copy and paste it into each cabinet elevation. Then add supplementary dimensions as needed in each elevation (ie: the underside of a vanity desk). Using the drawing order tool you can choose to have these lines on top of, or behind the elevation drawing. I typically keep them behind and use a medium light gray dashed line with a heavy line weight. I like to make sure the lines are visible on the left and right side of the elevation view.

Absolutely. Ever since saved plan views became available. Really helps to focus your work to the actual drawings you'll be showing in layout as opposed to messing with things in the model that ultimately will never be seen by anyone. And each time that you make an improvement, then export and save those layer / anno sets to a folder to add to your templates.

I figured I'd show the difference between Chief's handrail placement versus a code compliant handrail placement. I've put a request in to Chief to allow us to specify the offset of the handrail. In the screenshot, the 'y' bracket I placed is the minimum distance from the wall according to the National Building Code of Canada. If we could specify the offset, that would simplify the process and allow the visualization tools to match real world requirements. Curious if anyone knows how to get Chief to connect these handrails? It can't be easy because Chief currently doesn't draw handrails on walls following stairs correctly. Chief holds the handrails' height as the specified distance in the 'z' axis meaning a 2" rail doesn't measure 2" perpendicular to its direction, but holds it as 2" vertically. Hopefully this also gets corrected soon.

I've been there as well, Doug. I pushed back as far as showing brackets in all views at least in a residential project (and luckily, they conceded). I manually place brackets and I show them in the stair section view only and I always include a 'stair section' drawing that is clipped; No structural detail in this section, stair info only. On commercial plans, I include a large scale plan view drawing for the stairs and that's what I'd do for a residential plan if / when I had to. I've used some of the library brackets which look close enough when shrunk to the correct size, but for metal handrail brackets that might be used on an exterior rail, I've made my own. Also made my own 'cat's paw' wood handrail brackets. Keep in mind that if you're actually providing a stair detail which includes hand / guard rail details, Chief's auto rail is too close to the wall for Canada's codes. I always draw my own rails whenever I need to include details to ensure my rail profile and placement is code compliant. And I find it faster to build the model accurately, and then just 'take pictures' whether it's a section view or a 3D detail. I find it easier to update my drawings (that way) when my clients make changes after the drawings are complete.

I'll use whichever tool Chief has that works the best for me to get real accuracy. If I'm drawing a custom tile shower and I choose to use a p-solid or molding or 3D molding etc, I'll also model in every construction layer, especially if I'm including a detail on the plans. Depending on who I'm drawing for, I find accurate illustrated details are more relevant than CAD details. You probably wouldn't need me to dimension something like a shower but illustrated can be helpful to you or your employees and trades. Example: A builder I work for likes 3 treated 2X4s's glued and screwed for a shower curb. I'll show that, as well as cement board, waterproofing membranes, thinset, tile and tile trims and I'll model it with layer setbacks so each layer is visible and labeled. The illustration above was modeled using Chief and it's typical of how I model (not draw) details.

I've got 8 of my own edge profiles just sitting there in "My Moldings" library! Time to dust them off.

Geez, of course. I opened up an older file and I have it set in those cabinet defaults. Not quite sure why I've removed it? I've got a few different cabinet style default sets saved and somehow my go-to set has evolved without a countertop edge. After a few years of that, I'd forgotten and thought that an edge would follow the cabinet box, and not the countertop. This is why it's good to talk about things.

I haven't decided yet, modern though. I've got a really modern home I'm completing and I'll probably try to grab one from the warehouse, edit it if needed, assign materials and lighting and then save it as a symbol and an arch block. Quick question on your PBR video: you had edges on your countertops; you did that manually correct? I'm still assuming we can't automatically add a countertop edge molding.

You can move a roof plan to any floor for editing. In your case, if you've built one roof plane on the main floor and one on the 2nd, pick one and move it up or down so you can easily connect them. They'll still be 2 roof planes.

Nice demo of the match properties tool! I'll be using that more often!

Hey Rene, thanks for sharing this light. I'm assuming that if a person imports a sketchup model of a light fixture, you'd need to add all the lighting data, correct? At any rate, you're probably aware of this, but check out Pure Edge Lighting on 3D Warehouse. Lots of choices as a starting point. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/by/pureedgelighting?nav=models

I agree Lew. Interestingly enough, our building code specifically states that windows shall be installed as per manuf. spec. and I've discussed with officials exactly what you just described. Why redo work that's already done, right? However, some building officials in some jurisdictions seem set on make work projects. And I happen to be in one of those. There are so many different methods to achieve airtightness and the choice of material and methods can have a trickle down effect to the window install as well as other items. So it's not just windows we're detailing but all junctions that pertain to air barrier systems, weather barrier systems, thermal barrier systems and the builders rely on our code and product knowledge to ensure that the systems coordinate, are code compliant and accommodate their preferred methods.

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/e12451e5-6329-4569-b465-d76375442a63/Fireplace-Exterior-Wall-Vent

Another helpful idea is to build a template of grid lines (stacked vertically) for use in elevation and section views. Make it really clear in this template where each floor assembly is located by using a polyline with a transparent fill. Place this grid template on its own layer and copy and paste it into every saved section and elevation view for an easy visual reference.

If the window extends past the cladding, the indicators will show. In other words, if you can see the window, you can see the opening indicator. There are a few ways to get rid of them, but each way has a pro and con. If you don't like extra work, adjust the window's settings so it doesn't project beyond the cladding. This is the simplest that I know of but it may affect your realism in rendering. Depends on what matters most to you.

I made some Jeld-Wen Vinyl windows using Jedl-Wen's dwg files. The idea was to make my own symbols for more accurate display control in plan view as well as 3D. I had problems (probably due to lack of skill) when converting to a symbol to use as a window. In some jurisdictions, they are asking for accurate 3D window flashing and installation details that are project specific. Crazy, but true. This means that the glass need to be spaced correctly, inset correctly, head flashings, sill flashings, flexible flashings and so on all need to be shown. I might give the symbols another shot, although Chief has fixed one of my pet peeves from before: Exterior trim colors on windows used to show part way through to the inside no matter what setting you adjusted. That's taken care of! The picture below shows a cutaway taken from a complete window I made.

I hear you. And deal with the same kind of thing in different areas. Nice to see a solution was found. I'll be referring back to this.

Someone will show you how; but it's redundant. The schedule is there so they'll look at it. Adding more info to the label keeps trades and suppliers from referring to the schedule. Just a thought (maybe not one that's well formed).

Paul, je moet het zelf maken. Als ik zoiets nodig heb, heb ik een polylijn gebruikt. Maak het in hoogterekening. Hier is een voorbeeld: you'll need to make it yourself. When i've needed something like that, I've used a polyline solid. Make it in elevation view. Here's an example: