robdyck

I've certainly let the incantations fly a few times! I work from home, and now I've gotta keep looking over my shoulder to make sure the kids don't find out what dad's really like!

Oh I dare alright! Another question that could be asked in this post...How the bleep do you get the stringers or trim or (whatever they are) to clip the top when they join a landing?

1. Open your plan view "Framing, Floor Plan View" 2. Fill Screen 3. Select 1 deck post, then use the "Marquee Select Similar" tool to select all deck posts. 4. Change bottom height to 0 (top height will be locked when you open the dialog box). Yes, you'll have to turn off the auto framing, and yes, if you turn it back on, you'll need to repeat this process, but at least you'll know how!

Check "No special snapping", then clean up this roof's edge.

Look out. The down voters aren't going to like that!

And finally, here's a pic where I used the landing, then deleted it and dragged the stairs together. For some reason, these walls are remaining intact at the corner, even after double-clicking them and closing them. Some experimentation shows that it appears that as long as the wall that intersect a tread doesn't intersect more than half the tread, then the wall wins over the stairs.

You can use the break stair tool, adjust your stairs, then move the walls. You'll just need to adjust the drawing order to display properly in plan view and if 3D matters (which it does) then you'll need a solid to fix the portion of the wall cut by the stairs. Chief's way (at a tread/ riser): Moving the wall after the stair break: Using a landing:

For dimensions, marquee select all of them, copy them, change their default and layer!

You need a separate default set to change scales. Let's say your currently setup for 1/4" scale and want to use 1/8" scale. Copy the default set that you use for 1/4" scale, rename it and double the size of the text, dimension text, arrows, etc. Also a good idea to have 2 separate saved plan views for each scale, named so that you know which is which, of course!

but not really.

I remember reading somewhere that it was at a tread/riser line only. I've ended up using two separate stairs as I'm not smart enough to figure out how that break stair tool is supposed to be helpful. The 2 stairs will automatically join for correct heights at least. To do what you want, you'll need to use a landing for that tread that wraps the wall.

AFAIK there is no 'on' for that. You'll need to drive down to the supply center, pick up the molding, get your saw, nailer, caulking gun and paint brush...I mean use a molding p-line and place it manually. Why don't landings have a molding option??

Just type "bibb" in the library search. It's the first thing that shows up.

1. Build your balcony perimeter by using a thin wall type, then make those walls invisible. 2. Add a railing wall inside of the balcony perimeter at the appropriate offset for your metal insert. Make this wall to have No Room Definition. 3. Define the railing parameters of this inner glass wall to be panels, with newels spaced at the maximum length of your glass panels (ie: 4' or 1.2 m). 4. Make the newels an invisible material and make them 1/2" in width and the same height as the panels. The newels will show up in vector view, but not in renderings.

Area calc methodology does vary slightly from region to region but Michael makes a great point about the stairs. On a 2 story house with a basement, the area of the actual stairs is indeed comprised of '3' floors: the basement slab, the main-to-basement stairs, and the main-to-2nd floor stairs. The only area within an exterior perimeter which shouldn't be included in a floors area calc (IMO) is areas that are Open To Below (not to be mistaken for stairs and not to include the areas containing stairs). That is the standard in my region, both for real estate and for building departments.

I'll tell you how I approach this for complex projects. The section view that you show above, I would be detailing the actual section view (not a cad detail from the view) and setting the camera's plan display to be the section callout. That provides linking in the plan display relative to the layout page. I use a pre-determined box (cropped detail indicator) as a guide for my available drawing space which is based on the scale of my details, and the number of details that will be on each layout page. Those cropping boxes (on their own layer) can be copied and pasted-in-place to the detail section camera as a drawing guide. Their layer will be remain on for section views and will be turned off for detail views. For the details, I'd use another section camera in the same location, but on it's own layer (it will be off in plan view). This detail section camera would have it's own default settings (the settings formerly known as annotation sets) and its own layer set. Again, I'd add the cad detailing directly in the camera view. Don't forget to set the page scale for the details. When sent to layout, I'd replicate the layout box for each detail shown in that camera view. If I needed those details to have a callout in plan view as well as the hosted section view, I'd use a separate camera for each detail. The cropping in layout is easily done by adjusting the layout box to the cropping box guide I mentioned earlier. Unfortunately, you'll need to place callouts manually and keep track of them and update those callouts once you've finalized their page and page position. I prefer to place detail callouts and the crop box indicator in layout so that its quicker to update them prior to printing. If you needed callouts from one detail to appear in multiple section views you could use a text macro in layout. But for detail callouts that only appear once, I don't bother with that. I prefer to organize my section views in sequence based on their location plan view. For organizing details, I prefer to lay them out on the page in order of appearance based on the section views. Not sure if that's really any help...

Place your garage door. Then use the "Change Swing Side" tool, so the plan view indicator shows it opening to the exterior. If you want to see it open in 3D, you'll need to place a symbol of the door, and it'd be best to place it on it's own layer for added control.

Using a shower pan with a center drain, for one! Modifying a symbol meant to represent a manufactured acrylic or fiberglass shower base, for another! Just kidding. The fixture will generate correctly, and the 2d block will regenerate accurately for a width stretch, but the 2d block will not generate correctly for a depth stretch. Weird! If you're after a manufactured shower base, there's plenty in the library of various, available sizes (Kohler). If you're using a custom shower, there's plenty of drains in the library. Just place it in your 'Shower' Room.

Post the plan. Someone (like me for instance) will take a look, adjust the settings and send the plan back to you. The sooner, the better...

I do the same thing for exterior doors that are mulled with windows. This method works well and I think the only real drawback would be for users who are listing all the trim components in a schedule or using 3d views in the schedule that include the casing. I keep the 'doorway' (which is only there for trim purposes) out of my schedules.

From your screenshot it looks like you are using a CAD detail as opposed to a live view. It's pretty easy if you don't mind a bit of work. For a CAD detail, just delete all the roof pattern lines. For a live or plot line view, use 2 layout boxes of the front elevation. Crop the layout box for the roof and set the pattern line color to white. I just did one and it took me 2 seconds.

That's what I thought, but this door is between a Dining Room and a Deck. A typical door defines as exterior automatically, this mulled door loses some of its auto-defined characteristics. And I'm still getting used to the new schedule functions!

If I mull 2 exterior doors together in order to make a patio door that has a mullion, I can't see an option to specify this door as 'exterior' or 'interior'. This affects my schedules as I use a separate schedule for exterior and interior doors, because they're usually from unrelated suppliers. Am I missing something? I'd love the ability to be able to add a mullion to a double door. I now see that can be controlled in the schedule tab by exploding the Door Tab.

Keep in mind that if you're using an in-swing door with the door set close to the exterior of the wall, the path of the door's swing will be limited to 90 degrees. That may or may not be desirable.

CertainTeed and Mastic Home Exteriors both have vinyl board and batten textures.