robdyck

Believe me, you'll fight those half walls forever. IMO they are garbage. If you care about what they look like in 3d, forget those half walls and replace them with: p-solids OR normal walls shaped by adjusting the wall polylin

And you're just gonna leave us hanging with that teaser?! Would you be able to post a screenshot example?

You can do that, you just gotta think out of the box. Use more than one elevation type sent to layout. Copy you layer set for the elevation view and turn off the railing. Crop the layout boxes as desired and add CAD break lines in layout. Drawing Order tools to place the cropped view on top.

I think this is a bug and should be reported to Chief. You can't even add a zero thickness layer like housewrap to the exterior without having the framing jump out of place.

Very Clever! Although this whole topic feels buggy to me. You can add layers to the inside without the framing jumping, but not to the outside? Something ain't right.

Well that seems messed up but apparently the secret sauce for a flush eave needs to be spread on at least 2 layers thick to be sweet and tasty! I added a 2nd exterior layer (housewrap / 0 thickness) and that did the trick. I was working on another plan and I was thinking about trying the same thing...adding a sheathing layer. I bet that weird wall assembly must have had you wondering...It's an existing building that has the 2nd floor balloon framed against a 15' tall fir wall. So the plan is to add a knee wall on top of the existing fir wall and, for vertical reinforcement of the hinge connection, a new framed wall inside of that at 97 1/8" tall. All engineer verified, of course.

Thanks for taking a stab at it! I don't think I can say I've ever had these generate reliably. Often, I've used a triangle p-solid drawn in elevation view, because it blends with the wall surface material and doesn't generate any BS lines to remove in layout. And then another solid for the soffit.

Not for me either, but that's because I don't know how to use sketchup very well at all. I'd need another minute to Joey's original 2 minutes to add the reveals and any joints / connections.

And the reason is shows in some views as opposed to others is controlled by layer settings for each view (Display Options). For elevation views, you might want to setup a layer set that does not show framing. Then save and name those views.

24" & 24". That matches with what's been used on most of the building. There are a few sections with shorter overhangs, like shed dormers. The flush eaves wouldn't work on those either. I got a flush eave on one side, and a boxed eave on the other so I just turned off boxed eaves for those roof planes.

It's just a 1x4 molding, eave & gable, no offsets

No to Autoroofs.

For the pillows, you'd have to model them separately. You can do that by deleting the pillow surfaces from the original model, then 'convert to symbol' until you have just the chair. Reverse that process for the pillows, apply the material, and then you can place the pillows where you'd like on the chair and make a new symbol of the combined items. Clear as mud, right?! You'd have to do the same thing for a chair or sofa in order to apply materials how you'd like them. Delete surfaces to split the chair or sofa into parts, and define a copy of the material for that part. Repeat the process for arms, seat, back, whatever always using a copy of the material (Fabric - Arms... Fabric - Seat and so on). You can use separate plan files and control-alt-v to always place parts in the exact same position as the original chair OR use the replicate tool to always move parts the exact same distance so that you can rebuild your furniture model easily.

Wall siding material: White board&batten siding Soffit material: black aluminum soffit These 2 material are in the same place so they're z-fighting. Messes up the 3d views and the elevation views. In elevation view it displays patterns for both materials: the vertical pattern of the siding and the horizontal pattern of the soffit. So that creates a lot of clean up in layout or a cad mask in elevation. The same happens in 3d...patterns and material colors z-fighting

Has anyone figured out the secret sauce to smear on a flush eave? What the heck is up with these things? The roof produces soffit material and wall surface material in the same place. And I was gonna go the whole day without cussin...it's every single one on every house.

copy your CAD DETAIL BED #3 CROSSSECTION and use it as a guide to edit the framing in an actual wall detail. You have 3 different walls that will be framed as one...just pick one and edit. You can even copy and paste the framing from one wall detail into another. And yes, angled headers suck to edit...so use a general framing member... or open the window dbx and specify the correct header, then rebuild the framing.

See CAD Detail BED #3 CROSS SECTION

You posted this pic: In that view double click the lower wall to open the dialog box. Then: Structure tab / platform intersections / balloon through ceiling above. close dbx click 'build framing for selected object click 'open wall detail' edit the framing as per engineers notes. dimension and note as necessary if there is framing still existing in the wall above, open the upper wall detail, delete the framing, and check 'retain framing' .

Yes. You could convert those shapes into solids. I expect that there'd be better ways using Chief's framing tools...but if you're unsure how to use them then that's not helpful. For more help, post your plan. For even better help, you might consider paying someone to do some of this for you.

You could hire someone, like myself for instance, to provide you with the appropriate drawings that will satisfy your engineer, the building department, and the homeowner.

This is from a different post: but keep in mind that the location of the baseline in plan view matters as well. You really shouldn't need to think about the baseline. Rather, all your rooms should have the same ceiling height. Then, you'll want to make sure your roof height factors in 2 things for trusses: Raise / lower from ceiling height (for my region that is typically 3.5") or think of this as the bottom chord depth Roof Layers / Structure (for my region that is typically 3.5") or think of this as the top chord depth These 2 items will help you define the heel height of the truss - which matches Chief's Baseline height. This is the vertical height to the underside of the roof sheathing at the exterior of the framing layer. Then, any roof plane you draw will have the correct 'Baseline" relative to the top of the wall that the roof plane was drawn over. Quick example: In my region, the typical truss has the top chord 'pivoting' on the outer edge of the bottom chord.

That's what I thought..and did! Do you think its possible that a new material list wouldn't generate correctly until the plan is closed and re-opened? Yesterday, I had another item on my garage that wasn't populating correctly in the material list, but today it is. I had used a room molding, a baseboard, to generate the drip flashing at the exterior. I had adjusted the ID tab to "exterior Trim" but it wouldn't show up. Today, it does. And I was creating a new list after said changes.

And it appears as though a concrete base (to suit the foundation type) would be in order. Then a tilted 2x4 wall would be cheaper and simpler than the long tapered rip-cuts.

Kinda the same thing as shelves, right? Click on a door/drawer and a shelf management dbx shows up. And I don't see any reason that a field for offsets couldn't be available for the x&y&z axis. I actually think the cabinet dbx could use a separate 'hardware' tab. That's what I'd want if I did cabinet plans regularly.

I've drawn these, and built these. My 2 cents is to show the typical walls in plan view, and draw and label the tapered build-out (to the exterior) in plan view. I am assuming the inside of the wall is vertical and only the exterior is tapered. Very simple to draw the shape of the build-out in plan view, and very quick and simple to do a cad section detail, or a 3d model of the detail (if you do that sort of thing). I'd callout the detail on the plan and on the elevation drawing. On my section detail, I'd show and note the ripped tapered framing...and I'd be planning it to get 2 boards with one cut. This build-out would be applied over the exterior of any wall sheathing and weather barrier. If your p-solid is working for the look of the model, I wouldn't mess with that.