robdyck

No. If you can handle listening to this guy, check out the video. This is what I use. Goes with me every where.

No. You'd have to do that in a pdf program that has that functionality, like Adobe Acrobat, for example.

I hate to say it, but this is entirely dependent on your skill level with Chief, as well as how much tweaking and adjusting your design will get. Just focusing on the island for the moment: Define your cabinet / pilaster / panel layout in plan view before adding the details. The details can be super quick if you disseminate the process before you start. The furniture molding can be drawn in mere seconds. It can be replicated 30" up and replaced with a different molding. Applied moldings for the pilasters and panels can be drawn in plan view, converted to a symbol, rotated to be vertical and stretch planes adjusted, then placed and sized around the pilaster and panels almost as quickly as you can type this sentence! It's a good idea to define and organize your moldings before you start!

Plant images only produce shadows using raytrace. For shadows in PBR you'll need 3D plants, and you'll need to select carefully. Look carefully at the vector view of the 3D plants' leaves to get an idea of what the shadow will look like (big squares vs leaf shapes). Also, plant shadows in PBR are usually quite harsh and may need to be backlit in order to soften the shadow. Keep in mind that the lighting used to produce a good pbr may be terrible in raytrace. If you're using both render types, I'd suggest using different cameras with different lighting scenes. FWIW I never touch raytrace anymore...too time consuming. If I or my client need those top quality images, I've found it's cheaper to outsource.

On bigger projects, where the customer may be interested, I'll definitely let them know that I'm able to provide them with better visuals. But, for example, the last addition I just completed, was a 12x16 room added to a 1800 sq ft house. In that case, and with that client (who just needed an extra bedroom because of an expanding family) it's pretty tough to justify the time of a complete site measure plus the time to draw and model a complete house just for a small rectangular room. It probably would've taken 10 times longer, you know? So in this case, it's not about showcasing my work or ability, or 'going the extra mile'. It's about listening to the client, understanding their situation and delivering just what they need (and hopefully leaving them some money for diapers). And by saving them as much as possible, they return the favor by word-of mouth referrals. And, what some might call 'extra effort' for me is time stolen from my family, my friends, and most importantly...my bikes!

In cases where the permitting office allows it, this is exactly what I do in order to keep costs down. I do include a key plan and/or a site plan showing the location of the addition to avoid confusion. But, like I said, in cases where my customers want to spend as little as possible, then I must draw as little as possible. Seems like a win, win. If they want to spend more, I'll happily oblige by modeling the entire as-built. Really depends on the client and their project / budget. My MO is not to spend my client's money unnecessarily. Obviously if they want to burn some cash, I'm quite happy to bring the gasoline!

I used a soffit. The crown molding generated on its own, then disappeared, so I just made a room molding polyline...which would also be needed to do the crown molding returns on the lower ceiling level.

Use a sill for the bottom. If you don't want it to be seen, make a really small molding to use for that sill, like a 1/16th square, saved to you library.

@sunroomguy5555 I can do that for you. Send me a message if you'd like...

The visual indicators are great, but I find that the point B has more trouble finding my intended destination when I hover over 2 points in order to get the connected end result. It doesn't hold those axis lines as well. It's like it's really windy inside Chief. Anyone else notice this?

Nope. Didn't change nuthin'. It's really quite weird; there's some pretty random behavior! I could send you the files if you're curious enough. I'll check with tech support.

I've opened some file that originated in X11. The line weights in layout have gone kind of wonky. Anyone else experienced this and if so, is there a solution or is this a bug? Here's a couple of screenshots displaying the difference.

Use control now.

That copy-in-place tool was really loved by some, wasn't it? And today seeing this come up again, and the reasoning for that choice just made me chuckle (read: groan and cry). What else causes too many user problems and should be gotten rid of? Perhaps we should make a list...terrain, roofs, rooms, framing....I could go on!

One simple method... Create an elevation polyline that is the perimeter of the lot. Create an elevation polyline that is the perimeter of the structure. Make this elevation polyline 24" higher than the previous one.

Totally! Delete this layer...

A wrecking bar, dust mask, goggles, friends, dumpster. Or you could open the room dialog box and delete the ceiling layer.

As Ryan mentioned, keep in mind that any lines drawn, deleted or edited with that tool will revert back to their original state whenever the view is updated. Use that tool sparingly and only if there is no other method to accomplish what you need.

Is there still no decent way to have separate line settings for pony walls in elevation views? In the year 2020 we can't actually be expected to trace a solid line over the portions of the wall that are above grade (or the inverse)...can we?

I can't see any other way. You'll know this of course; a fixture and a polyline hole can't be blocked or converted to symbol. And no options for a symbol to create a hole in a floor. Not only that, but a hole cuts through everything, including the ceiling layer below.

Ahem...I have no idea what your talking about...my post looks fine to me!

@ChiefUserBigRob I can't replicate this issue. The only thing I can think to check would be "Preferences / General / File Management". Can you post a screenshot of your settings?

The same as whatever it already is, but use a wall covering. I find it more reliable than the paint method.

Good Point. If layers get adjusted while working, one needs to remember to 'save' the newly adjusted 'saved plan view'.

Easy with that like button...see if it works first!