robdyck

What are the components or layers of the 12" thick wall? Could you explain what you mean by the term 'shutters'?

You guys who all say you don't like the grid aren't new to the program...you've got a system that works and your comfortable using it, right? There's times when I don't want to see it either so I just hit the toggle button docked in my toolbar.

Waste lumber is not dependent on the measurements of the building but rather on the skill of those doing the building. Believe it or not, I framed many 2000 to 4000 sq ft houses with only a single 6 yard dumpster of scrap. In large custom homes, there is a place to use almost every cutoff of either lumber or sheet goods. In simple tract homes, optimization of dimensions becomes more important.

I certainly understand that many users wouldn't want to see or use the grids and then choose to have them off. My comments were based on the many plans posted by inexperienced users who are leaving them on, but are not using them to their advantage. I think it's fair to say that if you're new to the program, anything that helps you make a wall 32'-0" in length as oppose to 31'-11 3/16" is a benefit and maybe should be used. Personally, I like having the visual reference of both grids to quickly identify something that may misaligned. I also like using it elevation view as a guide for quickly and accurately placing cad reference lines to help guide items like material regions, stepped foundations, wall area polylines, manually placed trims or decorative elements. Of course, the elevation view guides are very helpful....if you started your floorplan on the grid at 0&0 on the x and y axis. Maybe it's from having been a builder, but I like instinctively knowing where every item in the house is on the x,y,z coordinates. But I also draw and model a lot of things that Chief doesn't have library items for.

That sounds painful Very nice work by the way! I can think of some fairly quick ways you could get the dimension lines to extend beyond the arrow. Obviously it'd be extra work. You could easily create a polyline around your building, then replicate it to where you want your dimensions to be. Then create a white box at each corner to cover those polylines leaving 4" showing beyond the building. That'd also give you a nice permanent guide to snap your dimension lines to. Probably easier ways...

Find the object in the library. Right Click, Open Symbol. Materials Tab, click material, press F2, type new name.

Ahh, that you change in the library. Right click on the object, then Open Symbol

Looks great Michael. Plus then you get the option of using the wood door. I think Masonite only makes those in MDF. I did something similar when I built my garage cabinets. I used birch plywood for the doors and a triple row of v-grooves near the top to sort of give a 'vented locker door' type of look. My comment about the 'Berkley' door above was because I made that symbol (or the same thing). Of course its possible someone else did the same thing. Its a Masonite product. I made all of the Masonite modern door symbols awhile back. They may have some new products by now.

Geez that's a nice door! Where'd you get it? Just click the highlighted material, and replace it. Or adjust the material and delete the texture file.

Location of project? Lots of code considerations. That may not be as simple as choosing between option a and option b. Also an expensive upgrade. Check your clients pockets before you start planning such 'features'.

Yes and No. Read the first sentence of the number style dbx. It doesn't do what you'd assume it does I believe you need a macro to control the dimension display in schedules.

This is entirely subjective. A great method for comparison would be for you to post something you've drawn. It'll give us a much better point of reference to see what you're looking for. The short answer to your questions though is YES. Chief is able to do more than you'll ever figure out. Many users have completely customized Chief and use none of the out-of-the-box settings. I've been using it for around 20 years (is that possible?)...and I'm still learning new things all the time.

There's nothing built on the 2nd floor of your test plan. Therefore...nothing to reference or snap to.

We need more info to help you. Best to post the plan.

For sure!

Chief will never get there. My original post was to solve that one problem and that one problem only. It wasn't intended as some sort of magic setting that fixes all the stair / railing problems. I was prioritizing based on the configuration of the stairs, the style of railing and the type of drawing provided. Obviously Chief can't build that type of railing in the stair dbx anyhow...

Railing is completely different than just stairs despite the fact that they can be defined within stairs. A handrail-to-post connection is based on a lot more than just how the stairs are mounted. Like, the thickness of the post, for example of which there are hundreds of styles. Or a rail-to-rail connection which also can vary greatly (in real, not in Chief). And then there's the configuration of how the stair connects to the upper floor. I could go on for days here. My original post only applies to situations where it applies. Not to situations where it doesn't. For certain projects, I go just a wee bit further than what Chief's dbx tools will allow so we're probably not talking about the same things.

I was also showing that with interior stairs. Your example was deck stairs. In my example, I didn't 'move the stairs" away 1"; they butt up against the wall layer. I'm just using a 1" thick wall to allow for finish materials.

I hear what you're saying but it does seem to work well. That's how most guys do it around here and I have to say I've built hundreds of stairs like that without any issues. Glued and screwed to each stringer, and the rough tread, and to added blocking between the stringers, under the rough tread.

Here's a life changing earth shattering tip for new users to Chief. Have you ever wondered if there was a logical way to start drawing a floor plan? Well, there is. It's called the 'Reference Grid'. Unfortunately, Chief's out-of-the-box settings have this grid set so light that it's hardly visible. Let's take a look at those settings: Next, let's see what a working screen looks like using a typical plan started from a Chief template: The whole building... A closeup: Notice that neither the Reference Grid, nor the Snap Grid are clearly visible. Let's change those colors so we can see them better. I've turned on 'Walls, Main Layer Only' in order to help see the wall drawing process. Notice in the view above that none of the walls align with either Grid. This should be addressed before you start drawing anything. 1. Change the Grid colors so you can see them. 2. Using the Input Point tool, place a CAD Point as shown below: This new point would be a great spot to: 1. Place a Marker and specify it as Framing Reference 2. Start drawing the floor plan in a clock-wise fashion. This will place your project in the positive portion of the x and y axis and help you have an intuitive grasp as to the buildings location as well as object locations. Everything will flow much easier, and I'm pretty sure both Chief and your computer will want to give you a hug.

I'm not entirely following your description Doug. Could you be more specific and maybe provide a pic or two?