joey_martin

Yep

2 options. 1. Once you hit print it will ask you where you want it saved. 2. Simply save it on your desktop or in the client folder and save yourself a trip. I email all my drawings to Staples and they email me when they are ready to be picked up.

Here..

You don't convert...you print. Hit print just like you were going to send the layout to your printer, but choose the PDF printer instead of your plotter. Set up the settings and go.

+1 for the materials list. A lot of info in there.

Once you have the ceiling joists set in place, simply place a general framing member on top of them by setting the correct height, then add another and rotate it. You could, if need be, add a couple CAD lines with a note and detail call out and simply make a detail of the needed connection. It's a fairly painless process though.

I think this thread sums up, for me anyway, why I don't use this tool. I use the post footing tool, for the simple reason of needed a footing that I can manipulate without needing the worry about what type of wall may be above it. I generally want to just have a footing that I can do what I want with in a very short order.

Not all of them will cause issues, and I think I remember someone finding a way to reduce the number of faces when the item is imported. If memory serves, it's generally round or rounded objects that cause issues. I import things all the time from the warehouse, so not all is lost.

Remember that whole new world out there of SketchUp imports? You may have found one of the side effects, so to speak. You have to be careful bringing some items in from the 3D warehouse, sometimes even little things like round lamps, or once a candlestick caused me grief. They can tend to have high facecounts, which can slow down your rendering and RayTracing capabilities.

I didn't see mention of loft, but I know that a 2"x10" wouldn't work with any sort of storage or livable space at that span, so I went with the ceiling joist chart.

Cutting it really close....

This is what he asking for. I would, in return, ask him for a waiver of liability when the sag becomes so bad that his ceiling fails. I would have to double check...but I am not even sure a 9 1/4" I-Joist would span that. *Why are trusses not an option?

Fixed window>Arch Tab-Round top>Adjust to size. The tools are there to replicate this window, but keep in mind that the window in the pic you posted is not a single unit but rather a series of custom mulled window panes.

There in lies the problem. While you have been busy reading about it, I have been busy using it. Stuart. The materials list will generate 100% of the items in your model. For this there is no question, there is no debate. If it's hardcoded to be counted....it will be counted. But you have to do your part. If you use a workaround for something, then you need to account for those materials, Chief will not read your mind. In the newer versions, the materials list has been improved in the area of lumber counts with addition of the cut list, buy list, etc...If you are using V.8, then you don't have access to those. If you are using V.X8, then investigate a little more about how to utilize those tools and develop an understanding of how the items are being counted. I can tell you, as a statement of fact rather than conjecture from others, that I have a couple builders that use my list for all roofing, sheathing, flooring, trim & moldling, siding, concrete, paint, drywall, housewrap, doors and windows. The improved schedules used with the list makes ordering beams and posts easier. But again, I have my template(s) set up to aid me in creating accurate models, and producing accurate lists of materials. I hope this gives you some hope.

When doing a shipping container "home" the first place to start is to throw that idea in the trash and design something else

The materials list a tool that is only as good as the model it is reading. If you take shortcuts on the model, the materials list will reflect that. A good solid accurate model WILL 100% produce a good solid materials list. If accurate modeling is a hassle....as some here suggest....then you likely have the wrong idea about what this software should do.

Johnny place a post footing and resize it accordingly. I have found that slab tool to be unusable. I have tried it for thickened areas under a basement slab with little luck. The post footing works the best.

I am in North Central Indiana. Have worked on many projects in the Chicagoland area. joeymdp@gmail.com

Breaking the wall is the process I use now when needing to pull the footing under a pilaster, or as above mentioned a new or existing point load needing a wider footing. We need the ability to select and manipulate footing though, with the wall break workaround.

In the first pic....the back right corner of the garage is the problem. The main roof of the house is cutting the wall into multiple gables. Delete that roof and drag it into place.

Until the live elevations, which I don't use that often, I have never used anything other than a vector view camera for elevations and sections.

Create that 18"x24" sheet and use SAVE AS as save it as a template in whichever folder you keep your templates. I think there are also some premade templates of that size in one of the directories included with Chief.

I second that. Break the wall(s) and drag them in place on top of some double rafters or lvl rafter, and the framing should be correctly sitting on the roof plane and not through the building.

Draw a ceiling plane using the ceiling plane tool and frame it. If Auto framing is on, Chief should do it. If you have a plane, and the ceiling framing isn't following it, then you have added a ceiling plane to a room with an existing ceiling. Open the room DBX and check the box for no ceiling, then add your manual ceiling plane and re-frame.

Can't select footings in Chief.....sigh. You can draw a slab footing at the same depth and bump them against each other and they should connect.