dshall

When it comes to electrical symbols, I have the smoke det. and carbon monoxide set. on a layer, ceiling fans on another layer, (e) vanity lights and (n) vanity lights on another and so on. The reason being is I always have a separate electric plan...... but I do want to show my ceiling fans on the floor plan for presentation purposes....... (e) and (n) vanity lights on different layers so I have the option to show only new on the electrical plan but for all floor overviews I want to see all vanity lights...... and on and on....... so I just copy stuff from a previous plan that already has that stuff on the correct layer..... not a perfect solution, but it works for me. Hey, what happened to the Chargers yesterday, jeez.... and the Cowboys...... I might have to go back to watching basketball or hockey.

I almost never get my stuff from the library. I almost always get my stuff from a previous plan or a "WAREHOUSE PLAN". The previous plan and the "WAREHOUSE PLAN" have the items on the layer I want them. So when I copy them to the new plan they go on the layer I want them on. I have found this much quicker than going to the library for each and every item. Alan's suggestion of blocking a bunch of things and putting them in the library is a very good alternative solution. The blocked items should be on the layer you want them and when you bring them into your new plan and unblock, all that stuff is on the layer you want it on. I am not pooh poohing the idea of changing the default layer for electrical items, but if you really think about it, one of the two methods I mentioned above are much quicker than going to a library for each item and mucking with changing default layers.

Nope, that won't do it Michael..... note the capital letter.

oooh, oooh, let me handle this..... why you knucklehead, that is the way you probably want it to show, but just in case, DEFAULT SETTINGS<CABINETS<GENERAL CABINET< UNCHECK PARTIAL MODULE LINES easy peasy, but I bet that if your try it, you will probably prefer the PARTIAL MODULE LINES. Thank you, thank you very mucho.

How are you doing DJP? Don't hear much from you lately, I hope all is well. I have missed your thought provoking posts.... I have thought about starting the "Best of DJP" up again, but only with your permission.

Yep, living the good life, good wife, 12 mini rug rats and plenty of vacations...... oh, and you are self employed, not bad.

Wow, I'm impressed.

Hey guys, I just downloaded Yosemite on my IMAC, wow, this is good stuff, just clueing you in, love it love it love it. It seems so much quicker and smoother..... and I have not even got into all the other neat features it has.

I hate to be the contrarian.... ( I really don't),........ but the problem with this is if any of the floors and ceilings of the copied plan are NOT DEFAULT heights, it ain't gunna work...... Michael...... note the capitalization...... I am am still thinking of that sand thingy.........

lol, Yep, that's it, we suffer the bureaucracy, but the weather ain't half bad.

Or you could take another camera shot.....

Okay, I think I understand. I still need my Title-24 person to fill out the prescriptive forms with a bunch of N/A's with the forms essentially calling out the u-value and the SHGC. A note on the plans specifying the min ratings is not good enough? Another $75.00 cost to client. I am with you, I thought about learning this new stuff but figured my time was better served drawing and paying someone else to fill out the forms.

This is the kind of nonsense that ticks me off. We are replacing a sliding glass door. What does that entail? -BMP's -TITLE 24 -Engineer's calcs checking the vertical analysis of header (replacing 4x12 with 3-1/2x11-7/8 psl) -Engineer's lateral analysis (no change in walls) -A set of plans with framing and foundation and site plan and vicinity map and floor plan -a detail of the post connection at each end of header down to the existing sill plate And I wonder why homeowner's do not pull permits....... This is easily an extra $1000.00 worth of work to replace a door.

Hi Perry, in another post that I did not look for, you made the statement that if we are not adding any floor area, Title-24 was not required. I have a project where I am only replacing an old 80 s.f. sliding glass door with a new 80 s.f. sliding glass door. The city is asking for Title-24, I asked my T-24 person about this and this is her statement to me. "Since the replacement is over 75 s.f, the required glass is ufactor 0.32 and SHGC is 0.25. If the owner can meet this, I can fill out a form with a lot of "n/a" everywhere else. If the owner already bought the door and it does not meet the required values, we would need to run the whole house to prove that it still complies. Since I have received a number of people that have bought the La Cantina doors that do not meet the numbers, I would like to verify before I start." My Title 24 person thinks this is a LaCantina door, it is actually a dual glazed sliding glass door. Do you have any comments? Do you think this is so? Can you cite verbiage that says otherwise? Thanks Perry.

I'm so stupid, why didn't I ever post a pic, I was doing it without a ceiling, so sorry.

That is wierd Mick. I did auto build, you are getting different results than I. So if you raise all 4 roofs 8" via transform replicate, your wall plates do not raise?

Okay, I am always changing and improving my M.O. Somehow a setting got changed..... I know I did not do it cuz I ain't smart enough to do it....... but it is the 3D<3D VIEW DEFAULTS<FRAMING BACK CLIP ...... was changed to 24"......... I think Lynn changed it because I know I didn't..... .... bottom line....... my EXTERIOR POSTS supporting my back porch was made of a FRAMING MEMBER (a post)........ and since the the FBC had been changed to 24", I could not see the post in a BACK CLIP CROSS SECTION CAMERA VIEW ..... I was baffled..... suddenly a little birdie said, " hey you nitwit, change the setting to zero", I did and the post appeared as well as the beam on top...... Jeez, I am not sure why anyone would want to change the FBC from zero to 24"........ but if you do, just beware...... I am going to have to talk to my wife about this tonight....... she had better keep her paws off of my 'puter ..... thanks to the "birdie".

Wow, I reread post one and I did not see that...... and we are off..... another 20 post thread without a conclusion.... I love these.... sorry I bothered to try to help, won't happen again.

Hit F12, that should auto fix.

I know I know, TMI..... I was pretty happy not knowing all this crap.

One final note, same house, no ceiling: if I raise the a roof plane 2" over the 4" or 8" wall, the wall raises 2" if I raise the a roof plane 2" over the 12" or 16" wall, the wall DOES NOT RAISE inconsistent behavior to be aware of. If I raise all roofs at the same time in 2" increments, ALL 4 walls will not ALL raise with each successive raise, to get the thicker walls to raise, a greater change in the roof raise is required.... again inconsistent behavior to be aware of.

and the answer is....... Square house, hip roof, (4) different wall thicknesses, a 4", 8", 12" and 16" wide wall. WITH AUTO ROOFS ON AUTO BIRDMOUTH ON...... constant eave and constant birds mouth seat, birds mouth seat takes it's cue from the smallest wall, the seat does not get it's width from the wall it sits on..... makes sense to me. WITH AUTO ROOFS OFF AUTO BIRDSMOUTH ON (manually built roof)...... varying eaves, varying birds mouth seat, ..... makes sense to me. So this leads me to believe that if I build my roofs manually (and I do), I should probably define the birds mouth seat (no auto birds mouth) for mosts applications...... there is always the exception.

Attach the problem detail here and someone will come up with answer.

Appreciate your time. What sparked the question was a project with auto birds mouth on. I was using 4x6 rafters on 2x12 walls. With auto birds mouth on, you can imagine very little rafter left at end (huge c cut, not good). I had no ceiling to hold plates down, hence the need to alter birds mouth since roof already built and I did not want plates to rise. Question: hip roof, 4" wall meeting 12" wall in corner, auto birdsmouth on, auto build roofs on, 24" eave defined......will CA build with 2 different birdsmouth seat depths resulting in two different eave overhang, or will CA build constant overhang and ignore auto birdsmouth? I think what I got out of this exercise was the need to be more aware of the autu vs defined birds mouth seat. Thanks again for your input.

I guess you do listen. Everybody has given you the answer yet you are not listening.