dshall

This is an incorrect reply. The reason is you have not gone into your dimension default and specified that you want the dimension to both sides of wall. It does not matter whether you are using a RUNNING DIMENSION or a MANUAL DIMENSION or even the INTERIOR DIMENSION, you must set the parameters in which you want to work in the DIMENSION DEFAULTS....... BTW, thanks for the question, learned something new..... INTERIOR DIMENSIONS do not measure the wall thickness..... somebody was just asking about this.

So what do you do? Nothing? Or do you join Tommy Blair's on line meeting once a month. I would go to TB's on line meeting. TB probably knows more than any of the attendees and probably knows more that 80% of users. A great resource.

Do you think she put her first name first or last?

I say get over it, I have. I do my sections at 1/4" per ft. The DETAILS take precedence. I get the fact the sections are not perfect yet. I have seen many plans and the sections I do are much better that 80% of them. In my mind the section is to show plate heights, roof pitches and floor elevation changes. They are not to show how the plywood shear connects to the top plates and sill plates. I try not to get too wrapped up in a few extra lines. I don't want them, but I make allowances. And quite frankly, not too many people complain.

It really ticks me off when someone replies to my suggestion and they are not clear why my suggestion does not work. I feel you are ignoring my suggestion. I will try again. Attached is a plan where I ran 3 sets of dimensions where I used MANUAL DIMENSIONS and it picked up both sides of walls, either the finish layer or stud layer, whatever I wanted. I then went in and selected the bottom two strings, used Perry's suggestion of opening up the dimension string and checking the SUPRESS WALL WIDTHS. I do not understand why this is not a good solution. If you do not want to even select the dimension string and check the SUPRESS WALL WIDTHS, I get it. If that is the case, I wish you would of explained why the solution I suggested did not work (Perry suggestion if truth be told). EDIT: Rereading your post, maybe that is your problem, you do not even HAVE TO SELECT THE STRING TO SUPRESS DIMENSIONS, if this is the case I apologize. I suppose it would of been clearer to me if you had stated that my suggestion worked, but you did not want to have to select the dimension. You know sometimes it is so hard to communicate what the true issues are, and I get this. We must all learn to be as clear as possible as what the issue truly is. I have learned over time to question what the true issue is. Client comes in with picture of a two story house made of stucco on a lot with red roses in the front yard. They tell me, "I really like this picture, this is the way I want my house to look", I ask them, "what do you like about it?", they reply, "the red roses"......... it is so important to be clear.

LOL, you know what, I would too, but I had auto spell on so it fixed it every time.

This is a great comment. I understand CA's dilemma. I love the fact that I can put a DW in a 24" cabinet. But we all understand that the DW does not go in a cabinet, but between cabinets, yet there is a countertop above the opening for the DW. I really noticed this when putting in WINE REFRIGERATORS in. It seems like I get a toe kick or something.... whatever.... it ain't right. I think you guys should come up with THE INVISIBLE CARCASS THAT HAS A COUNTERTOP option. This would do it for me. I like the fact that these appliances go into a cabinet so I get the countertop. I get the fact I can use a custom countertop, but I do not like this solution as much. Thanks CA moderator whoever you are.

My bad, I was assuming the vertical lines were parallel. I looked at site and they are not parallel. But the question still stands for me, can I figure out the angle of the house with the given info. Not sure. I do not think so. Yeah, the surveyer should of given a little more info if you want to be spot on.

A lot easier than I initially thought. First find distance from front left corner to back right where bay touches the line. This is your hypotenuse. Find ANGLE 1 of hypotenuse relative to verticle lines, you know the hypotenuse and the distance between vertical lines easy peasy Find ANGLE 2 of hypotenuse relative to back wall of house, you know the hypotenuse and you know width of house easy peasy Add ANGLE 1 to ANGLE 2 subtract from 90 degrees, you now have the angle of side of house relative to vertical lines. Once you know angle of house relative to the property line, the rest is easy.

Matt, look at your first picture. There is a check box for SUPRESS WALL WIDTHS, that is what Perry is talking about, check the box.

I would highly highly recommend hiring an instructor. Not just any instructor, but someone who does production work. I am presently working with a client and he wants to learn the program. He is paying me to shadow him while he draws the plans. Suppose it costs him 4000 to have me shadow him. ( let's go with high number), I guarantee you that is the best 4000.00 he ever spent. That 4000.00 comes with 9 years of experience knocking about with this program. I am not looking for the work, just saying if you have a big outfit, you cannot afford to learn by trial and error. In fact you may go through a couple of instructors who specialize I. Different aspects.

I paid 8.00 for a large two topping pizza, what should I expect?

Out of curiosity, have you signed into other user sites for other programs and if so, what did those folks say about their program?

I am trying to fake the topo lines for the city. The slope of this land has nothing to do with where I am building but this is one of the many hoops I have to jump through to pull a permit to replace a kitchen fawcett.

Your solution will always work, KT's solution is the lazy man's solution that may work for this particular situation....... IF WE HAD A *^**^&*%$ picture, we would be more help. But who cares, I am about to pick up a 7.99 large pizza hut pizza and I am just hoping it will be good. So funny, 25% of the time their pizzas are good, the other 75% of the time they are barely passable..... I wonder what I will get today.

I agree with KT, but a pic of what you want may give you a more definitive answer.

I love her stuff, some really neat stuff. I wonder if she is a one woman office or if she has a receptionist. Personally, I answer all phone calls.

Yeah, I really don't care what is the best program for commercial work. I do not want to reinvent the wheel, I do not want to design some 40,000 sf for someone who has more money than he knows what to do with. I would be happy adding 15'x20' bump out family rooms for the rest of my working years if I could choose. I would rather not learn another computer program, the only program I want to learn is the fitness program that will give me the body of an Adonis.

Kevin, I love to hear other users opinions. Since you use CA only 30% of the time, what else do you use? What do you think is the best program for the typical HOME CD'S. JPC who occasionally posts, and I truly respects his opinion, and apparentlly has used and uses many different programs, prefers CA if he had to choose........ for the typical house. I love CA, but that is all I know, I have not used any other programs. So what is your go to program for most of your typical residential work? Thanks.

Love the ceiling over island

Kirk was the one from CA who posted the website. It is http://gps.fuzzac.com

I don't remember what I was referring to. Somebody at CA gave us a website that we could get topo lines from. I will try google earth.

I think it was someone from CA that not too long posted a web site where I could get topo info on line. I have since lost that site. I think it was something like FZZIZZ.COM...... I think it had "z's" in it. Does anybody remember that and if not is there a site you guys use to get general topography on line? thanks

Close file, then zip, then post, no data available

Latest report from headquarters: Scott, Sorry for being unclear, this is definitely an issue that we need to address as it is not behaving correctly. The framing problem is the result of having Soffits unchecked on the Options panel of the Build Roof dialog. If you check this box, then delete and redraw your ceiling planes the problem will go away. I have logged a report on the framing issue as well. Thanks