dshall

I would try that, but my roof planes are good. It is when I build a ceiling plane in MY PLANS, not an OOB plan...... the rafters are made of STUCCO and the ceiling finish has two materials that are z fighting, the two materials are STUCCO and the DEFINED ROOM FINISH. I think I will send this into the muckity mucks at headquarters. Those guys know everything.

I just opened the plan that I posted with this thread. Only the plan open. I select camera, hit the delete key and nothing happens. I open project browser, select camera, right click, select delete, nothing happens. I think I have deleted saved cameras in the past.... I think..... maybe I was on a PC..... on a MAC right now, maybe it is a MAC thing.

I open OOB plan. Build quick house, take back clip cross section, open camera dbx and SAVE the camera. I changed my mind, I do not want the camera, I try to delete the camera. I cannot delete camera. I just realized this in the last few weeks. I guess I never tried to delete a SAVED CAMERA. Is this so? Once a camera is saved, it cannot be deleted. Open this plan and see if you can delete the camera. x6 X6 CANNOT DELETE CAMERA 1.plan.zip

Does anybody know how to change the material defaults for a ceiling frame. The OOB ceiling planes uses the room finish for the drywall and it uses fir framing for the framing of the ceiling frame. Can I change the default for these two materials?

Thanks Jim...... thanks for the help.... got it down now.

Hey, wait a minute, that tilde key is auto? I think I saw that somewhere.... if that is auto, that is perfect.

LOL, Yeah, I think I am ..... it's been so long since Algebra 101 I forget this stuff, thanks Jim, it is the tilde key.

My default dimension format is set to 1/16", occasionally I want to change the format. I would like to know when a dimension is not of the primary format. To note this I can put in some trailing text that will have the "APPROX" symbol, how do I get that symbol? thanks

Doing these things on line is the only way to go as far as I am concerned. I am sure Tommy's group will get more info shared than trying to meet in somebody's local office. Tommy is offering a true nugget for those that are interested.

This is frustrating and silly, but here is the sollution..... change the planking THICKNESS for each deck. Deck#1 has 1.5" planking, deck #2 has 1.40" planking and deck #3 has 1.6" thick planking. Keep the deck joists at the same level, but there will be essentially an imperceptible step from deck to deck of about 0.1". Frustrating, but it works.

.......... But ¼ max is generally considered safe for overhangs less than 2 ft. The reason being that with a notch, the end load is redirected into the side wall and the unnotched portion left in the rafter is in tension not shear[/size][/font] Does this hold true for both 2x4 rafters as well as 2x12 rafters?

When it comes to electrical symbols, I have the smoke det. and carbon monoxide set. on a layer, ceiling fans on another layer, (e) vanity lights and (n) vanity lights on another and so on. The reason being is I always have a separate electric plan...... but I do want to show my ceiling fans on the floor plan for presentation purposes....... (e) and (n) vanity lights on different layers so I have the option to show only new on the electrical plan but for all floor overviews I want to see all vanity lights...... and on and on....... so I just copy stuff from a previous plan that already has that stuff on the correct layer..... not a perfect solution, but it works for me. Hey, what happened to the Chargers yesterday, jeez.... and the Cowboys...... I might have to go back to watching basketball or hockey.

I almost never get my stuff from the library. I almost always get my stuff from a previous plan or a "WAREHOUSE PLAN". The previous plan and the "WAREHOUSE PLAN" have the items on the layer I want them. So when I copy them to the new plan they go on the layer I want them on. I have found this much quicker than going to the library for each and every item. Alan's suggestion of blocking a bunch of things and putting them in the library is a very good alternative solution. The blocked items should be on the layer you want them and when you bring them into your new plan and unblock, all that stuff is on the layer you want it on. I am not pooh poohing the idea of changing the default layer for electrical items, but if you really think about it, one of the two methods I mentioned above are much quicker than going to a library for each item and mucking with changing default layers.

Nope, that won't do it Michael..... note the capital letter.

oooh, oooh, let me handle this..... why you knucklehead, that is the way you probably want it to show, but just in case, DEFAULT SETTINGS<CABINETS<GENERAL CABINET< UNCHECK PARTIAL MODULE LINES easy peasy, but I bet that if your try it, you will probably prefer the PARTIAL MODULE LINES. Thank you, thank you very mucho.

How are you doing DJP? Don't hear much from you lately, I hope all is well. I have missed your thought provoking posts.... I have thought about starting the "Best of DJP" up again, but only with your permission.

Yep, living the good life, good wife, 12 mini rug rats and plenty of vacations...... oh, and you are self employed, not bad.

Wow, I'm impressed.

Hey guys, I just downloaded Yosemite on my IMAC, wow, this is good stuff, just clueing you in, love it love it love it. It seems so much quicker and smoother..... and I have not even got into all the other neat features it has.

I hate to be the contrarian.... ( I really don't),........ but the problem with this is if any of the floors and ceilings of the copied plan are NOT DEFAULT heights, it ain't gunna work...... Michael...... note the capitalization...... I am am still thinking of that sand thingy.........

lol, Yep, that's it, we suffer the bureaucracy, but the weather ain't half bad.

Or you could take another camera shot.....

Okay, I think I understand. I still need my Title-24 person to fill out the prescriptive forms with a bunch of N/A's with the forms essentially calling out the u-value and the SHGC. A note on the plans specifying the min ratings is not good enough? Another $75.00 cost to client. I am with you, I thought about learning this new stuff but figured my time was better served drawing and paying someone else to fill out the forms.

This is the kind of nonsense that ticks me off. We are replacing a sliding glass door. What does that entail? -BMP's -TITLE 24 -Engineer's calcs checking the vertical analysis of header (replacing 4x12 with 3-1/2x11-7/8 psl) -Engineer's lateral analysis (no change in walls) -A set of plans with framing and foundation and site plan and vicinity map and floor plan -a detail of the post connection at each end of header down to the existing sill plate And I wonder why homeowner's do not pull permits....... This is easily an extra $1000.00 worth of work to replace a door.

Hi Perry, in another post that I did not look for, you made the statement that if we are not adding any floor area, Title-24 was not required. I have a project where I am only replacing an old 80 s.f. sliding glass door with a new 80 s.f. sliding glass door. The city is asking for Title-24, I asked my T-24 person about this and this is her statement to me. "Since the replacement is over 75 s.f, the required glass is ufactor 0.32 and SHGC is 0.25. If the owner can meet this, I can fill out a form with a lot of "n/a" everywhere else. If the owner already bought the door and it does not meet the required values, we would need to run the whole house to prove that it still complies. Since I have received a number of people that have bought the La Cantina doors that do not meet the numbers, I would like to verify before I start." My Title 24 person thinks this is a LaCantina door, it is actually a dual glazed sliding glass door. Do you have any comments? Do you think this is so? Can you cite verbiage that says otherwise? Thanks Perry.