Alaskan_Son

I don't have an answer for you, but for clarification, are you talking about generic prescriptive calcs or using the actual fixtures and devices?

Ya, I realized that when I was messing around with it myslef. I was just trying to point out that its still buggy. Whether that little flat spot is a result of a limitation or not, point is that there needs to be a little flat spot. As soon as any shape comes to a peak...KABLAM!!! louvers disappear.

Feels buggy to me as well. Every shape will work right up until your shape comes to a point at the top. I think Joe is "cheating" by leaving a small flat spot at the top.

I think you supplied the answer in your own 2nd post...the code has simply become more stringent. Based on the 2003 IRC (cited in your attachment) you could go as close as 3ft. The 2012...not so much.

Not sure if you guys are really reading all the posts or not, but as Robert pointed out above, by very definition (section R202), Fire Separation Distance is measured to the LOT LINE and not to the neighboring structure (as I was also presuming). I assume the intent is to allow neigboring lots full and complete use of their respective lots to account for any and all future structures and usage without any regard for existing structures and usage. Makes sense to me.

Thank you. You are correct sir.

Not saying you're wrong, but where in the code do you get that idea from? As I understand it, the intent of the code is structure separation, not lot line setback.

The 2012 IRC is definitely more restrictive. http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_3_par041.htm

There are very few places here in Alaska where we would build houses that close to the lot line so I haven't personally run into this, but I just opened up the 2012 IRC to read it through and it seems pretty clear to me... The 1 hr. fire assembly WOULD be required, but ONLY if the adjacent building was closer than 5ft. (not the lot line). The only potentially applicable mention of lot lines are in connection with accessory structures.

Try turning on AND unlocking ALL layers.

This post makes no sense to me. Are you downloading SKP files or "DXL" files? SKP files should import with no problems unless you're using something other than CA X7 in which case you may need to download SKP files as older versions.

Can you attach a picture of what you're trying to accomplish? When you say "window frames" I can't help but think that walls may not be the best method to accomplish your goal.

+1 to that.

If I owned CA, I imagine I would charge a late fee to discourage people from letting their SSA lapse and then waiting till they need something or till just before a release to renew (in essence getting full benefits without paying full price).

Yes, you should definitely be able to do this. This is what I would do. Easy peasy.

Like Joe, I am familiar with similar details for log homes, but I've never seen the gap at the bottom before. Don't want to hijack the thread, but I can't think of any benefit to putting gap at the bottom other than MAYBE not needing a moulding up at the ceiling. Is there some other benefit I'm not seeing? Not ripping the idea at all, would sincerely just like to know.

No problem. FWIW, I wouldn't say I think its the best method. Its just the closest I could figure to the same thing you described in AutoCAD. The method Doug described is probably better for most things. Another option: 1. Make a copy of your layerset (for working purposes) if you don't already have one. 2. Use the layer hider to hide layers that are in your way 3. Select your objects and Cut 4. Switch back to your normal layerset 5. Paste Hold Position. Now all your items are selected an all your layers are on.

Oh...and you can edit the title of the thread by selecting your first post, selecting edit, and then using the full editor.

There are a bunch of ways to do what you want. In your attached picture, there is a Layer tab. Open that and select a different layer. Or, use the layer painter, select a layer, and then "paint" your items with that layer. What you're trying to do is part of my every day workflow and I don't have any problems with it ( only exception that comes to mind is gutters). If the above things don't work, please attach a plan.

You're welcome. Looks like you got what you needed. For future reference (if you don't already realize it), you can actually create angled cabinet doors like that and have them behave like a normal cabinet door (i.e. the door wold be totally correct and only the box would need futzing around with).

I bet the software is ProLandscape and I believe it will import DWG, DXF, and PDF.

I just sent you a PM

I messed around with it a bit more and the closest thing I can figure is this... 1. Make sure Active Layer Display is open (its the tool you will be using). 2. Select one of the objects you're trying to marquee select (only the associated layers will display in you Active Layer Display) 3. Left click in the name box of the appropriate layer to highlight the name, then right click, and copy. 4. Make a copy of layerset (to make a new "working" layerset simply for the purpose of what we're about to do) 5. Click back in the plan and hit spacebar to bring all the layers back up. 6. Select all layers and lock them. 7. Right click up in the Active Layer Display search bar and paste the name of the layer that was previously copied and unlock that layer 8. Marquee select your objects It sounds more complicated than it really is. It really only takes a few seconds. You might have to modify the technique a bit depending on what you're doing, but at least its a start. Once you're done with your operation you can turn all the layers back on and go back to your original layerset. Here's a crappy video... http://screencast.com/t/3FLKAjZnY3

Aww man I was gonna ask if I could take your user name. Err...I mean. PHEWF!!! You had me worried there for a bit. I was gonna miss your razor sharp wit All jokes aside...glad to hear it.

SWEET! Glad to hear it