Alaskan_Son

Here's a quick video... http://screencast.com/t/ddq7igYh

I see what you're getting at Johnny, but modifying the tool seems like It might not be the best investment of resources. I mean...you can already just turn off temporary dimensions whenever you want with a single click of the mouse and unless I'm mistaken you could just asign a hotkey to toggle it on and off. Can't get much easier than that.

I have to agree. The goal as I see it is to become more accurate not less.

I also noticed the same issue exists at your entry area walls. I wonder if perhaps you were working with angle snaps off at some point.

Nice catch Mark. There are definitely a handful of other little things that could be fixed, but your problem as Mark pointed out was the slightly off angle/misaligned walls. The lower wall was automatically building all the way to the roof because it wasn't properly aligned with the wall above. P.S. I gave you a point for posting the plan. Thank you. It almost always saves tons of time.

Nevermind. I think I got it... "Cover your @$$"

What does CYA mean?

Under the reply window, click on "More Reply Options" and then... "Browse" and select the plan file (again make sure its closed) and then click on "Attach This File".

Just a wild guess here, but I'm thinking maybe you had an exterior wall with "No Room Definition" checked and that an auto built Attic Wall was automatically built in the same location. Again, would be much much easier to figure out with a plan. Just make sure to close the plan before trying to attach it.

It would be most helpful if you could attach the plan file. There are a ton of variables that come into play.

I was in "Computer Club" for a short while in grade school and our Commodore PET computer used a cassette tape for storage.

You bet.

Probably one to send into tech support but looks like a video card issue to me.

Look like temporary points to me. CAD>Points>Delete Temporary Points

Good point Wendy. I suspect doing extra Save-As of various plan iterations is something most people do not fully appreciate or take advantage of. It cannot be overstated what a HUGE time saver it is. The moment you decide to head down a different road design-wise, do a Save-As to give the plan a new name. If I'm pretty sure I'm just messing around with options I'll name it something like Temp Plan. If I think it might be something that sticks or something I might want to go back to I'll name it 'Smith Res 2" and then "Smith Res 3" and so on. If you keep all those plans in one folder its super easy to clean them up at any time.

You betcha. Glad I could help

I might be misunderstanding something, but once you add it to the library you should be able to open it directly from the plan. On a side note, have you explored the possibilities of turning those items into symbols instead of blocking them? You could simply cut/paste in position to another plan, create symbol, and then cut, paste in position back into original plan. I don't know...just brainstorming.

On a side note, if you currently happen to have the elevation view open in the plan, the camera/callout will temporarily display in the layout no matter what you do but won't save or print that way.

Not sure I totally follow. You should be able to simply turn off the camera layer in that specific layer set (assuming your view sent to layout has a unique layer set). If you want other cameras to remain visible in that view, simply put the one camera on its own layer.

Neither of these are perfect options and I think there are better ways of doing it, but both are sort of possible... Using CAD>Lines>Create Line Style, you can use dashes (and/or dots) and text (specifically slashes and/or backslashes and capital letter I's set to a relatively tall height come to mind) to get the clothing on a rod look. It won't be random, but if you size and space everything right it can be made to work decently. For the wavy lines, the closet and quickest thing I can think of is to use either a spline, or a revision cloud (with whatever settings you like) converted to a plain polyline and edited as necessary.

Todd, Seeing as how I see nothing wrong with your workflow, I would suggest zipping a problematic layout and plan into a folder and attaching them so one of us can take a look. It may be something you're overlooking. Otherwise we could at least verify that it does or does not work for us.

Nothing wrong with your workflow that I can see.

Here's a quick example...I changed all sorts of lines without any problems at all...

I'm not sure this is totally accurate. With some rare, buggy exceptions, I can select every single line I've ever tried to select. Maybe it HAS changed...I don't know. I don't recall having ever had a problem selecting any lines in the past though either.

There are a lot of things coming into play here and there are pros and cons associated with any given method. Not anywhere near all encompassing, but a few things that I think are worth noting and looking into though... 1. Make sure the foundation wall in question is designated as a foundation wall in the wall dbx. 2. I have no problems creating a foundation wall that has both a footer and a "pony wall". 3. Build framing works for me no matter how the pony wall is configured. 4. The thing I have NOT found a way to do is put the framed section of a pony wall onto its own layer. It's defaulted to the same layer as the foundation walls and there seems to be no way to separate the 2. You can use the Delete Surface tool to get rid of all the upper wall geometry but that's just a workaround. Any changes to the model (including updating any related views sent to layout) and the surfaces will rebuild. This issue just needs to be fixed in my opinion. We really need the upper and lower portions of a pony wall assembly to be assignable to their own layers. 5. You can abandon the pony wall method, modify the foundation and footing in an elevation, draw a section of exterior wall, click on that wall and designate as "No Room Definition", place the wall directly on top of your foundation (aligning with the wall above), and then break/resize your new exterior wall polyline to fit between the foundation below and the wall above. Now you can put this wall on its own layer but it definitely takes a little more time to build and clean up. Just a few of my musing...stumbled across while trying to explore your problem. Someone else may be able to give you better advice. It's pretty rare that we draw up framing and foundation details and even more rare that we draw up daylight basements so most of the above is basically just stuff I figured out today messing around with your problem.