Alaskan_Son

And then just submit the post. You just need to actually write something in the post first is all.

Because you have not attached a plan, this is just a guess, but I am assuming you expected the moulding to go to the top of the wall but "to top" is setting the moulding in relation to your moulding p-line...not the wall. To get that moulding to the top of the wall you would have to adjust the height of the moulding p-line...or offset the moulding by the height of the wall. In other words, if you have a 96" tall wall, you could either set the moulding p-line at 96" and set the moulding at 0" "to top" or you could set the moulding p-line at 0" and set the moulding to 96" "to top".

Eric's solution might work for you, but I would encourage you to reconsider the way you drew the plan in the first place. I would have essentially... 1. Drawn first floor walls and deck 2. Built second floor and just dragged the exterior walls out for the cantilever area (no extra rooms or ceiling planes) 3. Drawn the roofs. Unless you have some other reason for doing things the way you did, I tend to think you may have just over-complicated it a bit.

I don't know what exactly you are trying to draw, but I personally see no reason for the extra room definitions at the cantilever areas. It looks like you've purposely created those "rooms" using invisible walls, extra ceiling planes, etc. which is causing your problems and I don't see why it was necessary.

Sadly...this is sometimes true :,(

...or you can do as Joe suggested and use the delete surface tool to create a new symbol.

Right click or bottom of screen in the edit bar. "Move to Front of Group". Looks like a couple pieces of paper...one black and one white.

Not sure if you were reading the little pop ups or not, but it answered your question right in the video. It said that functionality may no longer work with newer versions.

Agreed...except that in this particular instance I'm not even sure the solutions we have should be considered "Clever Tricks". Putting a camera outside a deepened terrain skirt just seems like using the right tool for the job... and I don't even think using a CAD mask is a workaround. I think if we were given the exact same polyline tools we have now under the heading "Layout mask" (or some other appropriate term) that some people would think we had a cool new tool. As with many things its just the way you look at it.

Why don't you try another symbol first. I still can't figure out for the life of me why you are having such a hard time in the first place. Maybe you just picked a bad symbol to start with...or maybe a major detail is getting miscommunicated in translation. Importing SKP files shouldn't be too hard to do. As long as you are using Chief Architect version X7 and are actually importing SKP files, and are getting them from the 3D warehouse there shouldn't be a whole lot of variables. I've had minor issues in the past with textures and sizing, but never anything like what you've described.

All jokes aside, there has to be some sort of balance. If we're given independent controls for every little thing we think of, Chief could become a bloated monstrosity pretty quickly.

Mmm hmmm. I know that's right!

What language do you speak fluently? Maybe there's another user that can speak your language and may be of better assistance. The troubles you're having shouldn't be so difficult to sort through and I can't help but think a big part of the problem is the language barrier.

Do a final view with shadows first.

It would be best if you could attach the plan, but the first thing that comes to mind would be to lower the roof pitch.

I still do all my take-offs old school. Pen and a piece of paper.

I don't think I would go that far, its not like the program is doing anything wrong...Which direction the material should be is totally subjective. It would be nice to have independent material control over the 2 different areas though.

I personally don't use material lists, but in messing around with it for a bit, I pretty quickly discovered the following... First, you need to check "Insul" wherever you want insulation, NOT on a unique insulation layer. In other words, its your 5-1/2" stud layer that gets insulated so that's where the check should go. Secondly, the insulation won't show up in the material list till you have actually created an enclosed building envelope (i.e. you need to create an enclosed room).

Not sure whats causing you so much trouble but here's a crappy video if it helps... http://screencast.com/t/9H3n198n

There are a number of ways to get what you're looking for but what comes to mind first is to just create 2 separate roof planes. Hmmm...on second thought I guess it would need 3 separate roof planes. Maybe that's not a very good idea. Maybe a roof/ceiling plane, p-solid, or slab about 1/8" thick placed just below the soffit would be a better option. You should probably post this in the suggestion forum. I think its a good one.

You betcha

Be careful not to mix up ventilation requirements with make-up air requirements. 2 different things. Makeup air is required to replace air being exhausted to the outside (i.e. for pressure balance). Also should not be confused with relief air or intake air. I'm sure the fans you are referring to Perry, are installed to meet continuous ventilation requirements. They are not for the purpose of makeup air...rather they might cause the NEED for makeup air. You may already understand that, just clarifying for those that may not.

Uncheck "Ceiling Over This Room".

To answer your question more specifically... We've never been called for anything on remodels but any naturally aspirated furnace or boiler around here needs a combustion air vent anyway, so that one is a given, and we install the kitchen makeup air for any hood vents 400cfm or more "voluntarily". To date we haven't done a remodel that ended up tight enough to require anything additional ("Fresh 80s/100s ,gravity dampers, motorized dampers, etc.) so those have so far been reserved for new construction.

Here in Alaska due to our relatively unique climate, fresh air and make-up air are huge. We use those through-the-wall "Fresh 80" and "Fresh 100" vents on a pretty regular basis. We've actually deleted the whole section allowing window vents to be part of the calculation. Those are a bit of a "poor mans" solution though. I personally prefer to use an HRV, to install a makeup air system specifically for the kitchen exhaust and then to take worst case negative pressure readings before installing any additional vents. We try to get this stuff right regardless of whether inspectors catch it or not simply for indoor air quality, to reduce possibilities of rot and mold caused by condensation, and to meet code requirements for health reasons. Around here, I don't think I've had a building safety inspector call it out though. It's always been voluntary on our part. The inspectors that do call it out are energy raters which to date have rally been voluntary inspections that one could choose to heed or ignore.