Alaskan_Son

Can you attach a picture of what you're trying to accomplish? When you say "window frames" I can't help but think that walls may not be the best method to accomplish your goal.

+1 to that.

If I owned CA, I imagine I would charge a late fee to discourage people from letting their SSA lapse and then waiting till they need something or till just before a release to renew (in essence getting full benefits without paying full price).

Yes, you should definitely be able to do this. This is what I would do. Easy peasy.

Like Joe, I am familiar with similar details for log homes, but I've never seen the gap at the bottom before. Don't want to hijack the thread, but I can't think of any benefit to putting gap at the bottom other than MAYBE not needing a moulding up at the ceiling. Is there some other benefit I'm not seeing? Not ripping the idea at all, would sincerely just like to know.

No problem. FWIW, I wouldn't say I think its the best method. Its just the closest I could figure to the same thing you described in AutoCAD. The method Doug described is probably better for most things. Another option: 1. Make a copy of your layerset (for working purposes) if you don't already have one. 2. Use the layer hider to hide layers that are in your way 3. Select your objects and Cut 4. Switch back to your normal layerset 5. Paste Hold Position. Now all your items are selected an all your layers are on.

Oh...and you can edit the title of the thread by selecting your first post, selecting edit, and then using the full editor.

There are a bunch of ways to do what you want. In your attached picture, there is a Layer tab. Open that and select a different layer. Or, use the layer painter, select a layer, and then "paint" your items with that layer. What you're trying to do is part of my every day workflow and I don't have any problems with it ( only exception that comes to mind is gutters). If the above things don't work, please attach a plan.

You're welcome. Looks like you got what you needed. For future reference (if you don't already realize it), you can actually create angled cabinet doors like that and have them behave like a normal cabinet door (i.e. the door wold be totally correct and only the box would need futzing around with).

I bet the software is ProLandscape and I believe it will import DWG, DXF, and PDF.

I just sent you a PM

I messed around with it a bit more and the closest thing I can figure is this... 1. Make sure Active Layer Display is open (its the tool you will be using). 2. Select one of the objects you're trying to marquee select (only the associated layers will display in you Active Layer Display) 3. Left click in the name box of the appropriate layer to highlight the name, then right click, and copy. 4. Make a copy of layerset (to make a new "working" layerset simply for the purpose of what we're about to do) 5. Click back in the plan and hit spacebar to bring all the layers back up. 6. Select all layers and lock them. 7. Right click up in the Active Layer Display search bar and paste the name of the layer that was previously copied and unlock that layer 8. Marquee select your objects It sounds more complicated than it really is. It really only takes a few seconds. You might have to modify the technique a bit depending on what you're doing, but at least its a start. Once you're done with your operation you can turn all the layers back on and go back to your original layerset. Here's a crappy video... http://screencast.com/t/3FLKAjZnY3

Aww man I was gonna ask if I could take your user name. Err...I mean. PHEWF!!! You had me worried there for a bit. I was gonna miss your razor sharp wit All jokes aside...glad to hear it.

SWEET! Glad to hear it

You should be able to keep that break from jumping if you make the adjustments in elevation too.

I'm not in front of my computer to play with it right now, but I will say this... I've never done it that way. I've only ever broken the wall polyline in elevation ( when you do that there are no wall breaks created). In essence, I end up with exactly what you have now. I suspect what is happening is that the wall just repaired itself once you made your subsequent changes. The program just recognized it all as the same wall type and reconnected accordingly. I think the same thing usually happens when you put it break into a wall but fail to change one of the wall types before editing it. If you want to keep the breaks you might have to create a couple different wall types ( just giving them different names should suffice). I personally don't see the benefit in doing that though. You should be able to get what you want just making those changes in an elevation view.

Are you leaving us?

That's a very good suggestion Glenn.

Thanks : )

Hey Alan, You can get essentially the same functionality in Chief with a couple extra clicks. There might be a faster way, but here's what comes to mind... 1. Make a copy of the layerset you're working with (maybe add SELECTION) to the name. 2. Select the item you would like to move, click on Object Layer Properties, and make a note of the layer. 3. Check the little box that says "show all layer"s, and then select them all and lock them. 4. Unlock the layer(s) you're trying to select 5. Make your marquee selection and do what you need to do with it. I would personally take the opportunity to block those items as well. If you're moving them once, chances are you're going to want to do it again. I'm sure there are more efficient ways but that's what comes to mind.

Sweet. Thank you Jonathan. I thought I remember seeing that option somewhere. Casing tab...seems like a silly place to have that.

I have a good handful of workarounds for this, but I would still like to figure out if there is a mo betta way... I'm trying to place a short wall behind a toilet. No matter what type of wall I use or what settings I've tried, the window seems to want to cut through the wall (i.e. it recognizes the situation as a double or furred wall) even though the wall itself is shorter than the window. Is there a setting I'm missing?

Changing it through the DBX as Perry suggested is the safest method. Material painter works great as well and is my preferred method for most things, but you REALLY have to keep an eye on the settings, especially Blend Colors With Materials as Robert pointed out. I actually added that toggle to my toolbar so I can keep a good eye on it at all times.

Glad you posted a plan. I was envisioning something entirely different. In fact, I'm not even 100% sure I see your specific problem. A couple screenshots that more specifically point out your area of concern might be in order. I went ahead to and took a stab at in anyway though. I suspect the problem you're having is due to the fact you changed your plan after you initially built the foundation and the foundation was not set to auto-rebuild. The rooms in the center portion of the plan also had no foundation defined. I fixed those 2 issues by turning auto rebuild foundations on and checking the box in the appropriate room structure dbx's that says "Monolithic Slab Foundation". Again, it was just an educated guess based on what you said previously, and on the way the rest of the model was built. See if this looks about right... Beechmont temp.plan

You would probably be best served posting your questions at the HomeTalk forum (the Home Designer product line forum). This forum is more specifically for Chief Architect users. You might not actually have that tool in HD Pro. If you do it would be right here... It shows up in the Help files for me. Again, it might not be available for you though. I'm not sure...