Alaskan_Son

It seems clear that you have a second schedule somewhere...in a CAD Detail maybe? At any rate, to alleviate guesswork and post the plan... Save the plan and CLOSE it. Click "choose files" Select your plan file and click Open Submit Reply If the plan file is too big you can do a Save As and delete unnecessary parts and pieces or you can try zipping the file and attaching that way.

You could post the plan and it would probably be done in about 45 seconds.

Good points Mark. There are definitely some good reasons not to mess with the room molding. Not sure how you got your molding shape, but here's a quick tip for that...

I think you'll find that blocking it has one potentially notable downside...the width and depth information displayed will depend on its orientation in plan and may not be accurate. This can be addressed a number of ways, or it may not be a problem...something to be aware of though. To create a cabinet symbol you have to Export 3D Model (I think 3DS is a good choice), and then Import 3D Symbol. You can then select "Cabinet" during the import process.

So, I started my tile warehouse plan today. I thought I'd at least share the Chief Core Content part with you guys... Tile warehouse.plan Also, a couple quick tips: One of the easiest ways to bring material over into your main plan is to drop a quick pyramid into your plan, explode the shape, and then block it while all faces are still selected. This will give you a small "palette" to work with. You can then simply cut or copy and paste into your main plan... To really make navigating warehouse plans faster and easier I think it would be a good idea to create a Focus On Selected hotkey for yourself.

Now there’s a good idea...a warehouse plan for the textures. Might take 2, 3 hours or so, but I think I might be well worth it. I might consider adding tags from time to time, but like I said, I’m not sure that one will do me a whole lot of good. I just don’t re-use materials enough to make it worth while. The warehouse plan though is a very different story...that one just might be the ticket. Thanks Rene.

You can still do that by placing a point and using Rotate/Resize About Current Point. Just switch to the RRACP edit mode, place your point, and then use the Resize edit mode (X).

If you're talking about closed poylines, here's a trick you can use. This is a pretty good one...

See if this help at all. This video also includes a tip for deleting extra nodes along a single line (not around a corner)...

All very good advice Mark and I know this starting to get a little off subject, but few other things I would add that I'm sure you know but didn't specifically address... Look out for adjacent cabinet handles too. Those can be even worse than the protruding countertop. Don't forget about the ventilation space ABOVE the cabinet. Many refrigerators require that space. I like to add a little wooden grille to match the cabinets at that spot. And a couple other tips: Whenever possible I like to add a furred wall or create a recessed area in the wall behind the fridge to allow for a standard depth refrigerator that doesn't stick out into the room. With regard to the required airspace behind the fridge: Problem here is that it is very easy for the fridge to get pushed back too far and end up in a situation where the doors either cannot be opened, or they can open but end up damaging the doors or the cabinetry in the process. A few years back I started addressing this by affixing a foam block to the back of the fridge about 2 ft. up off the floor...even a couple small foam blocks. Just something that doesn't obstruct airflow but keeps the refrigerator from getting pushed too far back... ...You know, now that I think about this, this all really isn't off subject at all. This all just emphasizes why some of us think its much wiser to place these appliances manually. If you're actually designing the kitchen I would go so far as to say its an absolute must if you really want to make sure and cover your basis. If you're just throwing cabinets in as filler items...maybe not so much...that's where just dropping them into the cabinets might come into play. The only appliance I typically add to the cabinet is the dishwasher.

Wow, I don't see how you could work without them. I only turn them off for the rarest of situations.

I pretty much always make the opening the proper size and then place the appliance manually. FAR more accurate and controllable that way.

I was assuming he was talking about closed polylines and breaking them into multiple closed polylines. We can do that too though using boolean operations and very thin or even zero width polylines.

You know what would really be nice? Group select pages in Project Browser>right click>Referenced Files. Couldn’t get much quicker than that. Add in the ability to Copy and paste the selected pages per the original suggestion and we’re really in business.

Ya, but like I said, that might be marginally useful at best. The keywords are one of those things that may or may not do any good at all unless you write them yourself There are countless tile patterns, countless tile sizes (or worse...combinations thereof), countless textures (and combinations thereof)... Find me a medium format, long skinny 1/3 offset horizontal white marble bricklay tile with 1/8" grout lines and a coordinating small format multicolored listello strip that also has a sort of horizontal feel going on (don't want any herringbone, little square tiles, octagons, circles, or anything like that)...and the accent tiles needs to have some dark grays in there as well. Seriously though...please don't find that for me. I actually don't need that right now. Just sayin'...using keywords is a whole lot easier said than done and as I mentioned before, other sites use that sort of system and I'm not sure it does any good at all much of the time. In fact, oftentimes it does just as much harm as it does good.

Strange indeed. Very easily reproducible. Looks like its only an issue with piers drawn in previous versions. All new piers behave just fine. You're not doing anything wrong. Please send this in to tech support so they can get it fixed.

Just FYI, that particular sofa has some VERY unusual problems with its 3D geometry and its behaviors in general. Something definitely wrong with it. It can be fixed but its not at all normal.

Thank you for posting a plan file. Describe exactly how you would like to change the objects and I'll see if I can't help you out.

I was referring to the actual plan file and not a screen shot. Anyway, that may all be a mot point as it appears you may be using one of the Home Designer products which are lacking many of the capabilities available in Chief Architect Premier. This is a prime example of why creating a good informative signature line is important. I would suggest you head over to the Home Designer forum... https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/?_fromLogin=1

You're welcome Perry.

You can change the layer set using the Layout Box layers tool.

Sounds to me like you just aren't using the View Draw Order edit tools quite right. Post the plan for a quicker and more accurate answer though.

Yes, you do need to resend. The layout boxes forever remember those 2 Edge Line and Pattern Line settings as they were originally sent (checked vs. unchecked). For this reason, I think Chief should cause those 2 options to be grayed out in the Layout Box Specification dialog when those settings were unchecked during the Send To Layout process. They're just confusing otherwise because they won't do anything.

We already can actually. Check your Ridge Caps tab. For the Rake tiles check your Shadow Boards tab. Just create and assign a molding symbol.

I guess I would assume otherwise. Those programs typically keep working a lot longer than that. I mean there are people still using pre-X versions of Chief and only fairly recently have they started to have any notable problems. I guess I'm not very familiar with Macs though either. Maybe they're less friendly than Windows in this regard.