Alaskan_Son

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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son

  1. Use the math... 5.50" base 4.50" at top 57.25" tall You are looking for the sides to slope in 0.50" over 57.25" right? And in order to reach the apex, the side would need to slope 2.75" (5.50"/2) right? 57.25 / 0.50 = 114.50 (this number essentially represents your slope 57.25 in 0.50 or 114.50 in 1.00) 114.5 x 2.75 = 314.875 or 314 7/8" (this number represents where that same slope reaches the apex) In other words you are going up 57 1/2" and over 1/2". This is equivalent to going up 114 1/2" and over 1". We just needed to find out how far up we needed to go to reach the center of the post or 2 3/4", so we needed to go up 114 1/2" 2.75 times.
  2. You've inadvertent drawn something way out in space probably or you've drawn really far from the origin (0,0). In plan view; switch to your all on layer set, hit Control+A (Select All),and then hit F6 (Fill Window). Follow your selection to the extreme edge(es) to find any rogue object(s) and delete them. Either that or use Edit Area (All Floors) to move your plan closer to the origin.
  3. You'll get more productive answers if you post the plan.
  4. At least 4 other solutions the come to mind... Use a reference layer set and just dimension the floor above. The dimensions would remain live in this case Use a reference layer set along with point to point dimensions. Just turn the points off, give them the invisible line style, or reduce the radii to zero. Use a reference layer set and polylines (or molding polylines) with arrows and custom macros. Make your foundation wall a double layer wall and set the Dimensions To layer to the innermost layer.
  5. Yeah, not me...I use vector views, technical illustrations, and line drawings pretty heavily. Actually, sometimes I use them very specifically for tile layouts and so the pattern can be pretty important to me.
  6. Scott, I believe this particular issue is almost 100% Chief related and I have faith they’ll have this fixed here in the next couple weeks.
  7. Oh dear, sorry Mark, I actually didn't even notice you attached a plan. I only saw the library objects. I was actually wondering because I know you usually include a plan. It was just kind hiding up there above the picture. At any rate, I see you're basically doing the same as I described except that I'm not messing with the stretch planes. I'm just leaving that alone. The "shelf" will resize as necessary. The only thing I've manipulated at all is the y offset and even that is only necessary for certain cabinet types. Also, my vector view problem is actually VERY minor...actually less of an issue than I was thinking. Maybe it has something to do with your stretch planes or perhaps your symbol has a zero thickness face on that one side? I don't know, here's what mine looks like though...
  8. Hey Mark, I won’t go into this in great detail because I know you understand how to manipulate symbols as well as just about anybody, but in case it hadn’t occurred to you just yet, there’s another capability we have in X10 that you might want to explore...well, 2 sort of: 1. You can create say a 24”x24”x24” liner with very thin sides much like what you’ve already done and add that to your cabinet via the cabinet dbx as a shelf. Just set the shelf to be 0” from previous and make it the same height as your opening. For face frames or “modified” euro style face frames that’s all you need to do. For true frameless just set set the Y offset to -3/4”. Biggest downside to this method is that you either have to include the shelves with the symbol or you have to add the shelves manually. 2. Create the same aforementioned liner except make one for each height. Set the bounding box height for all of them to something very small...1/16” maybe. You can then add this to your cabinet as a shelf again. This time however, just set your shelf to be 1/16” tall. Using this method, you still have the ability to add other shelves via the cabinet dbx. Biggest downside to this method IMO is simply that you don’t get a sharp line where the shelves meet the cabinet...unless maybe if you use some custom library object for those too, although I haven’t tested that one out yet.
  9. Not sure I’ve run into that particular problem before and I’m away from my computer now but here are the first things that come to mind... 1. Maybe change the second garage room type to an exterior room of some kind. A porch or court maybe. 2. If the above causes some other problems maybe use a room divider set to be .01” thick and draw walls to enclose a very small room just outside the door in question and make that room an exterior room. Make the room SUPER SMALL so you can’t even see it without zooming way in. I’m actually not totally sure if either of those options would work but they might be worth a shot.
  10. You're welcome Chop. Thanks for upgrading me from unhelpful back to simply neutral and of no affect, it means a lot I’m really going places now!!
  11. You're welcome. Thank YOU for your support. BTW, I also want to send a shout out to whoever appreciates the help Robert and I have offered. Classy! I fixed yours for you Robert. Anyway, whoever you guys are, please shoot me an email or PM so I can be sure to put you on my short list people not to help.
  12. I can verify, they all seem to be a single material. For now I guess your best bet is to add to your user library and "fix" them...
  13. Most noticeable upgrade ever...hands down.
  14. At least 2 ways... 1. Control+Tab followed be Enter 2. Edit>Preferences>Text>Options>Text Specification Enter Key...UNCHECK Create New Line. You just have to get in the habit of hitting Shift+Enter to create a new line.
  15. You have to make sure and CLOSE the plan before you zip it.
  16. I don't personally use the material list very often so that is a non-issue for me personally but... The material list: The additional molding gets added to the material list just fine albeit as its own line item depending on how you have your molding drawn and spec'ed elsewhere. Reasons for not using the room molding: Any adjustments to the room or cabinet placement and you have to adjust your molding polylines again. With the separate molding polylines you can leave the room molding automatic and just move the cabinet along with its moldings. There are just a couple of the most notable reasons anyway.
  17. It seems clear that you have a second schedule somewhere...in a CAD Detail maybe? At any rate, to alleviate guesswork and post the plan... Save the plan and CLOSE it. Click "choose files" Select your plan file and click Open Submit Reply If the plan file is too big you can do a Save As and delete unnecessary parts and pieces or you can try zipping the file and attaching that way.
  18. You could post the plan and it would probably be done in about 45 seconds.
  19. Good points Mark. There are definitely some good reasons not to mess with the room molding. Not sure how you got your molding shape, but here's a quick tip for that...
  20. I think you'll find that blocking it has one potentially notable downside...the width and depth information displayed will depend on its orientation in plan and may not be accurate. This can be addressed a number of ways, or it may not be a problem...something to be aware of though. To create a cabinet symbol you have to Export 3D Model (I think 3DS is a good choice), and then Import 3D Symbol. You can then select "Cabinet" during the import process.
  21. So, I started my tile warehouse plan today. I thought I'd at least share the Chief Core Content part with you guys... Tile warehouse.plan Also, a couple quick tips: One of the easiest ways to bring material over into your main plan is to drop a quick pyramid into your plan, explode the shape, and then block it while all faces are still selected. This will give you a small "palette" to work with. You can then simply cut or copy and paste into your main plan... To really make navigating warehouse plans faster and easier I think it would be a good idea to create a Focus On Selected hotkey for yourself.
  22. Now there’s a good idea...a warehouse plan for the textures. Might take 2, 3 hours or so, but I think I might be well worth it. I might consider adding tags from time to time, but like I said, I’m not sure that one will do me a whole lot of good. I just don’t re-use materials enough to make it worth while. The warehouse plan though is a very different story...that one just might be the ticket. Thanks Rene.