chief58

I show them but just note that they are battery backup and interconnected per code

I have suggested the ability to draw the electrical connection like the spline lines but nothing yet, like you I have to select them to straigtren them out time consuming, I like using the electrical connection lines so if I do a plan check it will tell me if I don't have something connected so I can fix it I don't think you get that with Joey way of doing it, I have done it that way when I put a lighting plan and an electrical plan on different pages

your not missing anything, what I do is put a break line in the wall where I want to have a post the only problem is what post you have as a default shows up, if I only want a short post I make my spans between the support post wider and put in a short post where I want and not putting a break in the wall, this and many more request have been put in at no avail so but in your feature request if they get enough maybe something will change over pretty pictures time for sme construction document updates

if that is a furred wall you don't have to put a window chief will cut the opening when you dsignate it a furred wall in the wall dbx

I got easyrafters because I didn't want to learn another program even though I did try solid builder but had a lot of time into chief and with being able to use a macro to show rafter lengths we have to let them do some thinking in the field that is how I learned

I find that easyrafters is quiet accurate when it come to sizing and showing rafter cuts, tell Brian I sent you even though we have never met

yes I bought it a long time ago and just recently he did have an upgrade with some nice features and being able to save well worth the money as far as I am concerned, alot of times I split the span of the rafters and have a knee wall for the first set and the second set goes to the ridge, I did this when I built my house and have exported files to put on plans that I draw for a reference for the client to his builder, tell Brian I sent you even though we have never met

I understand that wasn't sure what he had underneath and what kind of height there was, even with putting the railings he has to protect the underneath

you need to look at a program called easyrafters.com I have been using in for years

TREX makes a drainage system that might work for you call Trex RainEscape

It looks like you made a space for the dishwasher and not a cabinet, I selected the filler that is on the right side countertop and just slide it to the left to the other counter and that fixed it, as far as the double oven I don't think the cabinet is wide enough for it to fit into try making the cabinet 33" wide I used a jenn-air jjw2527ws oven and it fitWeber-White revised.planWeber-White revised.plan weber revision.zip

This might be a question for Chief Sales, I did a plan once when the client did his in HD and I had to use version 7 for the version he had, I found out by contacting Chief

Well that is a good reason, hoping it works out for you keep us posted

Is there a reason you are not satified with DB

Alan seems like you have a very intense project there you might just have to bit the bullet and draw your first plan to what one would be and save the rest of them to a different name and make the revisons for each as seen fit

not here, maybe a restart is in order

I use dropbox and it works great betwenn the 3 of us

Dermot at one time I was having problems with the fillers and not sure if it was the base wasn't showing the backsplash or if the wall filler wasn't showing the backsplash when I had it full height, I just tested it and all seems to work ok know I might of had this happen in a previous version and never looked at it in an updated version and just kept doing the old way since that worked for me but I am changed know so crosscutter do as Dermot says

I take a regular cabinet make the door and drawer changing them to a blank area then adjust the size to the filler you need and place it in the plan where you need it

If I am reading you correctly I would do the first plan save that one, then save the second one to a different name make those changes, and save the one that is easiest to change making the third plan in a different name, from there you can send each elevation to the one layout sheet with the different names that you have chosen

Like Tommy I learned the manual roof tools and being from a construction background I always build my roofs manually I like it better since I have total control of the roofs

did you try the jeld-wen catalog

I have done townhouses and all in Chief like Lew says what do you feel are your limitations with Chief

Sheryl not sure what type of elevator you are doing if it is residential you just need a fire rated door if not look here for what you need https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/search/?q=elevator doors&searchTab=model

you need to check your state requirements and find and Architect or structual engineer to work under so he can stamp them for you that is what I do here in Pa with the advantage of my son being a structual engineer to do plan reviews on commercial projects since he works for the state in the bridge department, you might be able to google the requirements for Virginia