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Everything posted by DBCooper
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When I open your deck room I get the warning message about your deck being over a non-deck room. I think the solution is to change it into a different room type. See if this tech article helps: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00065/message-deck-is-over-a-non-deck-room-framing-may-not-be-correct.html As for your post and beam railings, the beams will be at the room's ceiling height. You can adjust the ceiling height to move it up/down. You can also move just the beam up on the "rails" page using the "vertical offset" but this will give you gap between the beam and the post. The other thing you can do is just manually draw your beams.
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Build->Wall->Polygon Shaped Room Enter the number of sides and the side length.
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Try selecting one, hold the shift key down, and then select the next one. Do until they are all selected. Now if you want to make this easier in the future, you can convert them into a millwork symbol and then use it as a panel symbol for your railings. Takes a bit more work but then you only need to do it once.
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If you post the plan, the someone could try it on their machine and it would be easy to tell if the problem is your plan or your computer. You need to use the "export entire plan" tool so that they would have all of the same files and since it will be too big for the forum, you will need to post a link to it on some cloud location.
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Butting up a new structure next to an existing one
DBCooper replied to reedie2000's topic in General Q & A
You should just be able to move one wall so it bumps up against the other and the program should keep both. The only time that I know of that the program removes a wall is when you draw or drag one on top of the other. The program will usually replace the existing wall with the new one in this case. Not sure if you are doing something wrong or if you found a program bug. If you post your plan and let us know what you are doing, someone might be able to figure out what is going on. -
In X16, you can manually add, delete, and move newel posts in a railing. In X15, you can only change the start/end post in the dialog. I don't think you can do either in X10. You might be able to remove all of the posts in the railing dialog and then place the ones you want manually though.
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Might just be checking for updates every time you start. Do you have a lot of bonus & manufacturer libraries loaded? I don't but I could imagine that if you did it would take longer to check the status. Do you have the option to show online catalogs turned on in your preferences? You could try turning this off but then you won't see the libraries you haven't already downloaded.
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half wall caps sticking out on roof cut half walls
DBCooper replied to KENTHOMAS's topic in General Q & A
What version are you using? I remember seeing problems like this in the past but haven't in a while. The gap could be something as simple as a doorway but probably need to see the plan if not that. -
Latch Side of Entry Door Won't Mull to Sidelight
DBCooper replied to WillBB's topic in General Q & A
Nope, not without the plan. You could try deleting the right side light and then using copy on the left one, and then reflect about the center of the door, and then see if it works. That would tell you that you had the exact same side light on both sides. -
Did you record it in Australia? Probably, not otherwise it would be upside down. Sorry, couldn't resist. Never seen this myself so I really don't have any suggestions. There is a "reverse direction" tool for normal polylines but I don't think you can use it on walkthroughs. Maybe you accidently reflected it somehow?
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First thing to check is to make sure that all of your wall tops and bottoms are set to default heights. I can tell the one you selected is because of the picture above but you might have other walls that are not. The easiest way to check is to just group select all the walls on each floor and see if those checkboxes are still greyed out or if either has a "minus" instead of a "check" mark. Then I would look at your floor and ceiling heights and make sure they are all set to "use default". Again, you can group select your rooms, maybe using the select similar tool, and see if they are set the same. If it's not one of those obvious things, then you might want to post the plan so that someone can poke around in it.
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I think it's a bug.
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As for the "delete newel" tool, you need to make sure you delete the right one. The newel post with the big handle is the one that will get deleted. You can also get rid of the newel in the railing dialog. As far as I know, there is no way to add the rosette automatically. You will need to place it and move it where you want it manually.
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Technically, you only need to have X16 since it will read all of your old plans (since your signature says you started in X6). I keep a bunch of old versions installed though because I have lots of hard disk space and I sometimes go back and run the older versions to make quick updates to old plans. One way of freeing up some space is getting rid of the stuff in the archives folder for the old versions. Could be a little risky though if you go to open up an old plan and find it was somehow corrupted. You could always open your old plans and make backups of them using the "backup entire plan" tool and then you would be safer deleting the archives.
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If I was to make a guess, I would look at your ceiling heights and other settings in your room structure for the loft area. The best way to get some real help would be to post the plan.
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Think of the cabinet tools as building blocks. That island is really a lot of separate pieces put together but each one by itself is probably not that hard. The counter top is just a custom counter because you can make them any shape you want and then use a molding for the edge profile. The legs could just be posts from the library or you could make them using cabinets as well. The end panel could just be a cabinet that is only 3/4" deep. When you get stuck, you can always build pieces using other tools like poly solids. Most of the stuff in this video will probably still work in X11: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10222/kitchen-islands-custom-countertops.html?playlist=171 There are lots of other videos and tech articles. Just do a search for "kitchen island" and you will find lots of stuff. If you get stuck on a particular part, come back and ask more specific questions.
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Electrical objects can attach to furniture in X16 even when the layer is turned off. I noticed the same thing in X15 with cabinets. Seems like if the layer is off, they maybe shouldn't.
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Change an existing stair between "up" and "down" ?
DBCooper replied to JBradleyConst's topic in General Q & A
Not sure what you mean. I think you can draw down stairs anywhere you want (although you might get a warning about doing it inside a building). I drew the stairs holding the alt-key and manually created a hole in the floor for the picture below. -
Change an existing stair between "up" and "down" ?
DBCooper replied to JBradleyConst's topic in General Q & A
Do you need to keep the actual geometry or just the style? If you are using X16, you should be able to save the stair into the library and then draw the new one going down using the alt-key and keep all of the style settings. I'm still not convinced that you actually need a "down" stair. There are a lot of ways you might be able to handle this without a down stair. You might be able to just make a copy of the stair on the floor below and as long as it is in an open below room it will show as a "down" stair. If you don't have a floor below, you can manually adjust the heights and then manually draw your own "down" arrow. -
Dialog boxes popping up on all object selects
DBCooper replied to Don_Proven's topic in General Q & A
Maybe it's a mouse problem? If your left click was really doing a double-click, then it would open the dialog instead of selecting the object. Try a different mouse or take a look at your mouse settings. -
Change an existing stair between "up" and "down" ?
DBCooper replied to JBradleyConst's topic in General Q & A
As far as I know, you can't. There is a "reverse direction" tool but that still won't change an "up" stair into a "down" stair. Most of the time you don't actually need a "down" stair though except when drawing stairs going down from your porch or deck on the outside. Stairs usually work best when drawn going up to the next level. -
Follow up problem with furring in 4" walls
DBCooper replied to SkyTree-Greg's topic in General Q & A
I think they are just left overs. Fix the interior wall type and then rebuild the framing. -
Plasterboard extends below the framing & floor
DBCooper replied to Mezmerelda's topic in General Q & A
Maybe you have a room molding set to go below the floor? Also, check your wall type and look at your "layer properties" to see if you have accidently set a "layer extension". If it's not one of those things, then you should probably post a plan like Gene suggested. -
Check your room floor/ceiling heights. They should all be the same, and preferably, they should all be set to "default". If the stairwell, or any other room is set differently, it can mess up your roof.
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I was able to the the wall lengths to line up by drawing a room divider between them on the second floor and turning off the auto generate attic walls. Not sure if there is a better way though. BTW, using room dividers or invisible walls to align walls with others on the opposite side of a room can be a really good way to keep things lined up.