rgardner

It is not usually a defective 3d model (sometimes it is) but rather workflow difference. Some appliances are made to place into a cabinet and if you try to place it outside of the cabinet and move it into place the x,y coordinates are set to offset into the cabinet so that is typically the difference.

As Eric mentions there is lots of results for this same item. I happened to have a second so look at this:

Pretty sure that is the issue to some degree or another because you can see you moved them as the other two do not align. Make sure you hit the default wrench to reset them. but if that doesn’t fix it upload the plan.

Reset the window label to default or same as others. You will get this behavior sometimes if you change where the label shows in 2d by manually moving the label.

Can you figure out how to make the top into a diamond shape? If so look slightly lower in the box to a little button that says reflect vertically (or something like that, not at my comp.)

So a portion of that second story would have no ceiling but effectively be at about 4’ tall??? So a room that has no flat ceiling and a 48” wall height…. just gotta figure out where the wall would be where it would be a 48” plate height on both sides. Should be able to autoroof it.

Look at the shape panel (arch) of the window dbx.

Sorry I usually do those plans in a stripped down template but had a slip in memory and did it in my regular template. Time is valuable right now. the method you described at the end (above) is basically it and can be done very quickly with the right tools.

Place your mouse cursor over the edge of the window where it touches your drawing window panel.

Sorry I don't have time to strip down my template plan and send it right now. But if you follow what I wrote in my description with this picture you will be able to recreate it. Dont think about it as not being a two story building, in chief it is. Make the second story room open to below and you will see right through to the bottom room and set it to 36" or so with the 5/8" single layer wall type you will create out of a tongue and groove material.

In chief architect this is accomplished by placing a short second story with the room specified as open below.

1 layer wall (5/8" T&G),3 1/2" posts placed manually, and 1 molding polyline with three moldings. I lowered the terrain 6" here so you could see the bottom "sill" made with a molding polyline.

If you are trying to say it is an inset panel of T&G inside then you are on the right track with railing walls set to 3" wide and post to beam full height with upper and lower rails not raised and then input the windows doors the same way. Upstairs you will still want to add a second layer with just a T&G layer as the main layer possibly and windows to the edges.

This is how you would properly model it in chief architect which is what you asked for right? Maybe I am not following your wall makeup but you said its tongue and groove over 2x3 framing??? That is exactly how this wall is done. It isn't a second story as I forgot to mention you would mark it as open below but this is how you would model it in the program.

Sorry didn't pay that much attention to the original but something like this? Two story building with a wall with vertical siding over a layer of 2.5" depth framing, doors and windows placed with lites with a 2" casing and a 2" muntin... Main floor at 97 1/8" plate height and upstairs at a 36" plate height I think it was. Auto roofs. Very quick terrain placement with two regions.

1.) Wall Elevation 2.) Place and shape a wall material region (set to thickness that will get you to the right layer you want to see and set the material as "opening no material" and set it to cut the parent finish layer. 3.) Copy and paste in place and change shape and change settings Example If you have a 5.5" framing > 7/16" OSB Sheathing > 1/16" house wrap > 1/2" Siding wall then you would have a material region of no material 1" thick to show the framing, 9/16" thick to show osb sheathing, and 1/2" thick to show the house wrap.

Sorry I was doing that on my phone so no pics. But no air gap for that and especially not on the outside of the exterior layer, I was saying to move the airgap and brick and everything to the exterior layer, make your main layer of the concrete and the framing layer be in your main layer only and everything on the outside of that in the exterior layer, (i.e. Interior layer: drywall, main layer, fir framing, exterior layer: osb, house wrap, board and batten.) Like Chop is showing above. BTW your cursor says you need to rebuild your terrain.

I would be interested in talking to you regarding your project. I am from Washington state and very familiar with that part of Oregon and Washington around the Dalles and would like to discuss your project further. I am an experienced Chief user and familiar with advanced building practices for this area. Feel free to reach out to me at argarservices@gmail.com .

Like this?

Move your air gap and house wrap to the exterior not the main layer, then align at main layer outside.

Like this:

Pretty sure that they used a standard framed wall with different wall material regions shaped and cutting the layers back.

Have a closer look at the structure panel of the deck room dbx.

Would be my suspicion that may be the difference?

Until you save the settings you changed in the door dbx nothing actually changes so if you are turning casing off you need to save and close the dbx before you can make a size change or a movement that the casing would block the door from doing.