rgardner

Sorry didn't pay that much attention to the original but something like this? Two story building with a wall with vertical siding over a layer of 2.5" depth framing, doors and windows placed with lites with a 2" casing and a 2" muntin... Main floor at 97 1/8" plate height and upstairs at a 36" plate height I think it was. Auto roofs. Very quick terrain placement with two regions.

1.) Wall Elevation 2.) Place and shape a wall material region (set to thickness that will get you to the right layer you want to see and set the material as "opening no material" and set it to cut the parent finish layer. 3.) Copy and paste in place and change shape and change settings Example If you have a 5.5" framing > 7/16" OSB Sheathing > 1/16" house wrap > 1/2" Siding wall then you would have a material region of no material 1" thick to show the framing, 9/16" thick to show osb sheathing, and 1/2" thick to show the house wrap.

Sorry I was doing that on my phone so no pics. But no air gap for that and especially not on the outside of the exterior layer, I was saying to move the airgap and brick and everything to the exterior layer, make your main layer of the concrete and the framing layer be in your main layer only and everything on the outside of that in the exterior layer, (i.e. Interior layer: drywall, main layer, fir framing, exterior layer: osb, house wrap, board and batten.) Like Chop is showing above. BTW your cursor says you need to rebuild your terrain.

I would be interested in talking to you regarding your project. I am from Washington state and very familiar with that part of Oregon and Washington around the Dalles and would like to discuss your project further. I am an experienced Chief user and familiar with advanced building practices for this area. Feel free to reach out to me at argarservices@gmail.com .

Like this?

Move your air gap and house wrap to the exterior not the main layer, then align at main layer outside.

Like this:

Pretty sure that they used a standard framed wall with different wall material regions shaped and cutting the layers back.

Have a closer look at the structure panel of the deck room dbx.

Would be my suspicion that may be the difference?

Until you save the settings you changed in the door dbx nothing actually changes so if you are turning casing off you need to save and close the dbx before you can make a size change or a movement that the casing would block the door from doing.

A couple of things to add to this great thread. 1.) If you keep your sink cad blocked with the cabinet they will not show up in a schedule if you happen to need to do a detailed plumbing schedule 2.) When placing a sink or other plumbing item that I know I need to show on my foundation reference I will also place a marker at the sink drain location on their own layer off in everything except the reference layer, this gives me a dimension-able point. 3.) If you use the trick to hide the base cabinet line and use my point #2 here you will have the best of both worlds without the schedule possibility.

As this will show you can place the sink outside of the cabinet then drag it into the cabinet.

Look up the Wall Hatching tool.

Same concept but you either turn off auto rebuild roof framing or you leave the ceiling plane as opening no material. BTW good information to share originally. Also pictures and plan files really help you get accurate information. Another tip is to fill out your signature line with which version you have and some details regarding your system to help the guesses.

Place a manual ceiling plane at 8” place your trusses and once they are set then lock them. You can either set the ceiling plane to opening no material or delete it after if you lock the trusses from rebuild.

You will need to create a custom stair rail panel and use it.

Unblock it before resizing

Similar idea of best practice as Joey mentions however I would use a wall niche for the slot opening instead of just a cad line. And I would probably draw a cad line to the shape, break the wall and shape it to that line then convert that line into a molding line for the top trim piece.

I have personally seen this as the case 95% of the time as very few are any good and even a lot of times it is faster for me to trace a picture of the plan than actually use the DWG provided and cad to walls as I find the time is about the same and tracing and setting everything up allows me to get a better feeling for the project. Just to point out that pdfs embedded into a plan file does take up a lot of memory so try converting a pdf to .png file first and then importing it. Now if its a basic one or you are going to delete after tracing walls for example it may not affect you but I will usually leave it on a separate imported layer myself and turn it off after done in case I want to refer to it later on for some reason.

Do a search for framing material.

Just as an FYI from a long time Flooring Industry Expert as you should never take the flooring takeoff for sheet vinyl or carpet too close to the takeoff amount. Even though it may be 1000 square feet you may actually need 1400-1600 square feet as they come generally in 6' and 12' rolls and there is patterns to take into account and layout.

There are lots of variables but 99% of the time it is your wall definition not set to align to the right points. Without a plan or pictures of the wall definitions for both your foundation walls and upper walls no one will be able to definitively help you.

Hard to tell how you did your brick ledge from the pics but would be my guess of why it is not working properly. I believe you will need to include your plan file (make sure you close out of chief before adding it) to get accurate help.

Open the material for that wall in plan instead of library and rename it to 1/2” stucco.