rgardner

Never used the desktop viewer option but seems what is said here; would work in principle. 1.) Create a full symbol from the model. 2.) Place symbol into a chief oob template plan with just the terrain info copied over. 3.) Send client that plan file for them to view. Again never used it but it seems like this would work.?.?

Anyone else get prompted for an update today on x13? Had a random crash and then when I started it backup it said there was a new update. Looks like version 23.4.0.123OSX dated March 14th. I am in chief every day and first I have been prompted. Also curious that since X14 is already in Beta there is patches coming out for X13.

Is this true with new ultra chip? As I understand it, It was announced at the studio product line launch that a competitor product had developed their product to natively run on the arm technology AND it supposedly has rtrt working with the ultra chip…

Or perhaps it is your design process/workflow? If you are getting non even numbers it is up to you to place the walls in the place you want them. Maybe this article (https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01116/moving-walls-using-dimensions.html) will help?

You can do it by customizing a parametric glass hinged door and changing the specifications but it takes some work. Most will just place a cad arc to show it.

Copy some of it to a basic plan and post it.

If you are using x13 (can't tell from your signature which version). There is the ability to use lateral framing in wall definitions so you can simply add the slats on the exterior and interior if you want both sides of the wall definition layers setting the size and distance you want to see. You can even add a thin black layer behind the slats so you see black between the slats.

In Addition in plan view if you look close there is a grip near the end of the door and you can open it or close it however you want it to show on plan as well as in 3d (when show open in 3d is selected).

Look at the options in the window schedule, and remember to add your total line at the bottom.

Select your two end trusses, open them, change them to reduced gable trusses, rebuild them. Once done with placing your trusses either select both roof planes and hit the frame selected to put in the rest of the framing manually. You most likely will have to clean up a little bit of framing but as long as your end trusses are reduce gable (and I suggest selecting as end trusses as well so it gives the backing for siding), the "outlookers" will build properly.

Were you using saved plan views in x12? If you were import the saved plan views as well and you should sync up. That is if I am understanding your issue correctly. Pictures speak a thousand words most of the time.

Put that camera on it's own layer and turn it off in the layer sets you don't want to see it.

Search Mull in the help file.

Nope I learned that lesson years ago. First step save the file.

Totally agree to not work in an unsaved plan. However didn't it change in x13 that there was an automatic autosave happening when one forgets to save the plan right away?

I believe you are confusing the overlay separation to the face frame separation. the 3/4" is the 3/4" rail that goes across that is between the drawers for example. each drawer will overlay that 3/4" by approximately 5/16" leaving 1/8" between the doors when you have a full overlay set as 1/8" separation between the drawer/door FRONTS. You would set the defaults to that in the Box Construction panel of the cabinet specifications dbx, and set the full face overlay to 1/16" (each door/drawer) which will result in the 1/8" gap. OOB it comes set this way unless you have changed it. As far as the dimensioning issue are you using Chief Architect Premier X13 or Interiors X13? If so you will need to change your dimensioning settings. Before x13 you didn't have the snap-points for it. And if you are not using Premier or Interiors rather HD pro or the Home Designer line of products then you should ask the question how to do that dimensioning in the hometalk forum as the tools are different. Sorry since you don't show it on your signature I don't know which program/version you are using so that is the best we can do with help. BTW we do very much appreciate it if you can take the time to fill in the basics of your signature with version/product details as well as basics on your system as it helps answer your questions better. Hope this helps.

You have to think of the library items as being basically separate from the built in program. Yes you can place a shortcut on your toolbar to place a library item but that is basically all it is a shortcut to grab that item and place it in the plan file.

Those items are from the library so two options for you: 1.) Place them in your template plan all setup how you want them. 2.) Have a user library subfolder for appliances with them setup how you want.

A trick if you are breaking it to make a change differently than above is to either change the direction of one of the walls temporarily or hit the gable conversion for that wall in the edit bar. That will give it a different definition. Just remember to make the adjustments back at the end.

I would think that interior railing would like all interior railings build EVERYTHING to the middle of the wall where as if your exterior railing and exterior walls are setup to use build to outer layer it wold know the baseline goes on the outside of that railing.

I prefer Substance Player but this is a very easy to use alternative: https://architextures.org/create

Yes, you will need to use manual beams if you want it to notch. The railing tools with beams you cannot fully customize beam placement.

Thanks for the tip Glenn, never used that option before. Didn't realize it was a selective option. #Alwayslearningwithchief!

In your case after opening the file I found the following. 1.) Auto Roofs was not fully used. Perhaps you did at the beginning but then you turned them off and adjusted them. Once you have turned them off then they will not move unless you manually do so. Hint you change the wall settings for the roof to gable, hip, high shed/gable, etc. as well as your overhangs, etc. 2.) Room settings were all manually changed from your defaults you set for the floor instead of just changing the default. 3.) The biggest issue was the wall definition as you had two materials in your main layer. And the majority of your walls were manually adjusted. The issue with using this technique instead of changing your room settings is that it will not fill in when you do things like place the roof as it thinks it shouldn't move from where you manually adjusted it to. See the attached pix and see if it helps you accomplish what you want.

I would venture to say based on that working that your rooms are not set to correct heights and you placed manual roofs. Chief works with rooms. The roof is contained at the top of the room and the floor at the bottom. If you want your ceiling to start at 10' tall your room needs to have a ceiling height at 10' (even if you are going to use a vaulted ceiling instead of a flat ceiling. My recommendation would be to select ALL of your walls, open them as one and reselect DEFAULT Wall top and bottom heights at the top of the Structural panel of the DBX that opens for the walls. Then set your rooms to the heights you want by opening the room DBX and setting the rough or finish ceiling height you want to start the ceiling at (outside height). Hope that helps. And BTW there is a very big reason why Eric or @solver sent you that message asking you to fill in your signature. This information that I just spent time typing out for you is quite possibly not valid depending on what program you are using. We get a lot of users for Home Designer pro or the Home Designer line of products asking questions here thinking that it is the same software which it is not! There is a valid reason why hometalk exists for those users because many of the tools have to be used differently for those programs. So if that was you who gave a downvote to Eric asking you to setup your signature so we can tell and not spend time answering something if it won't help I recommend that you reconsider his suggestion for what it was. He was, Trying to help..