rgardner

So not to restate the obvious but really looks like:

Curved ceiling plane underneath it and you can create your "triangle" portion then use polyline drawn in elevation changed to a solid for the upright curved pieces.

No issues selecting anything on my end in your plan. Sounds like possibly a memory issue with your computer. I would take advantage of your ssa if you have it and call tech support.

It's very helpful for new and other users who may have the same issue if you can post what was the issue and how you fixed it. That way when someone is searching and pulls up this thread they may be able to help themselves based on your solution. BTW welcome to the forum.

That is right in @Renerabbitt and @MKBDesign's backyard. Two extremely skilled designers.

yup but you can get it 85% using the truss tool and add in any kinds of arches manually. At least the triangle part works well with the truss. Usually a king post on those as well.

Looking at monitor options for my studio I ordered. Are you running twin 4K 32” monitors? Do you like the 4K for everything?

Shortcut trick for you is to use the truss tool.

Copy the plan and start deleting symbols to see if that helps at some point. You can also try turning off all labels especially framing labels to see if it makes a difference. Most likely it is a corrupt or high poly count symbol

Try changing up the rendering technique in the preview bar. Bottom of the library browser one of the icons is settings.

Is it like that with other materials as well? Looks like maybe a GPU issue if it is the same across all materials.

Use a short room divider placed perpendicular to the short wall and snap it to the wall then move the room divider to where you want the wall to stop.

If indeed you are looking for this type of footing there is a bonus catalog with a bunch of pier footings.

Please post the plan. We can guess but without the plan it’s a guess. My free first guess has to do with the wall definition and settings on those frost walls and specifically the framed wall above them that I am guessed is marked as a structural wall with footing below and the footing having a vertical footing selected.

Create a separate default to measure doors to outside and change to that default and dimension. But unless you want to delete all the other automatic dimensions it would be best to just use your automatic dimension tool and run just that wall moving the line to the proper offset you want instead of using the automatic dimension tool.

Doesn't appear to be the latest: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/download/19282/radeon-rx-vega-m-graphics.html

Using a floor material region set to cut existing finish layer set to same material and extended through rooms.

They are too close together or overlapping. pull them away from each other then bump them together either with the mouse or arrow keys.

The only problem that usually occurs with this situation (here is a doorway mulled with a pass through) is that the sill cuts into the finished floor. There are some ways to fix this including using solids, floor material regions, etc.

One of the few places where use soffit material for ceiling might work if you have it set correctly as well.

Best to start your own thread or better yet a quick search for how to do something. googled: chief architect shadow board and got this video as top response here it is talking about frieze board which is the next nearly identical panel down from shadowboard in the roof dbx. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/708/frieze-molding.html

So Canvas will supply a plan file but it is greatly dependent upon who was contracted by them (most of them I have seen come out of India and the middle east) how it is done. I believe most are drawing it in another program and then importing the dwg file using cad to wall tools etc. I have seen some super weird plans come back. I got to the point that I don't recommend using their .plan files and just getting the pdf report to trace over. I recently had one for a client that had walls that were literally set as single layer and 3/4" thick for an exterior wall and the next room over sharing the same wall was 10" and had several weird layers in it. The wall IRL was literally a standard 2x6 framed wall w/ 7/16" sheathing and lap siding with 1/2" drywall... I just printed that file to a pdf to scale and traced over it in my own template. Granted not all that I have seen have been that bad but that particular job was also off by about 20"+ from the upstairs walls. It's an extremely well priced service but you better take some control dimensions.

Best to probably start a new thread for something like this. Best guess though is you inadvertently hit the color toggle button (oob on the right side toolbar that looks like a yellow house with a black box) or the hotkey for this which oob is F8.

Yeah again never tried it but it would probably save you from a few headaches with the clients. Pretty sure the model still keeps its independent materials definitions so should be able to still use the paint materials tool. Wouldn’t be able to add furniture or change furniture. But then again we don’t want it to be too easy right… And yeah I just use the 3d viewer if possible although I hate that stupid basic view as it gives them the first impression that we did it with crayons.