SNestor

1 minute ago, robdyck said:

@SNestor Did you get a haircut?

No...using Chief often...so, probably just losing more hair. 

1 hour ago, javatom said:

You can also use a roof plane.

Yea...but not if you value your time.

2 hours ago, NateGeno said:

Can anyone tell me ho to show flared siding in Chief? I can make it with the polyline tools but it doesn't look right and it doesn't work on the corners. I can't find any information on this anywhere. Does this require a work-around or does Chief have a tool for this?

Do what Kevin suggested...use a molding polyline. You will be done in a few minutes and can move on to the next thing.

@kwhitt - Kevin, somewhere in your plan there is a problem. I tried..but could not find it. Not sure why you would align the "roof baseline" over the face of the brick. Why not just keep the baseline aligned over the main wall layer and then adjust the fascia top height...or use the "raise/lower from ceiling height" to adjust the roof?

I've attached a plan I created using your plan footprint.  I didn't try to recreate your roof...I was more looking to see if I could recreate the overhang issue you are having. I created this plan using my template. Everything is created using "auto"...auto roof, auto foundation etc. 

As you can see...I don't have the overhang issue you have. KWhitt Plan Fix - Steve 20-0810b.plan

@kwhitt - attach a plan so we can see what’s going on. Thanks. 

@bmatth1 - see attached plan. I changed the walls to brick-6, changed the foundation wall to 10" wide and added cutouts to your openings...and added a 16" brickledge to the wall type. Just open things up in the plan and you will see the changes...

979243440_OwlCreekGarage - Steve Fix.plan

18 hours ago, DzinEye said:

Use CAD detail from view to accurately place lines you can snap to in the 3D model.  Cut and paste/hold position into the 3D model.

"Cad Detail from View"...one of the greatest and most under valued tools in Chief.

18 hours ago, bmatth1 said:

I am trying to keep my foundation stem wall up 12" above the garage floor, and create a brick ledge on the outside to drop the brick down about 20 inches, and keep the brick cut out below the garage door and the side door.  I tried creating a pony wall in the foundation, and this seems to eliminate the cutouts and has results that leave brick showing on the outside and an offset in the brick. I have looked at a few videos and other forum questions, but still cannot seem to get this to work. 

Made you a "quickie" video...https://www.loom.com/share/88dac27256aa4dc280c382120a16cd20

The biggest mistake you have made on this plan is that you are using a siding-6 wall type which you've "painted" with brick veneer. This might be ok for a quick render...or if you are just exploring what something might look like...but, you really need to change the wall type to "brick-6". 

@kwhitt - I just made a frieze similar to your and don't have the issue you have. I'd say you have something else happening...maybe it's the wall type issue where you have something extending from the foundation?

See attached...

16 hours ago, kwhitt said:

Which is exactly what I stated in my original post and how the architect wants it.  Is this type of construction possible in Chief?

Kevin...

I took a different approach to defining the wall/foundation. You can review the attached plan. 

For the main house wall I created a pony wall...in the definition of the lower section of the PW I designated that the brick ledge was 24" deep.  Chief will automatically drop the veneer down on the face of the foundation wall. 

For the foundation wall...I created a main layer that was 6.5" and another exterior layer that is 5.5"...total 12".  Yea...it's not exactly like your architect wants...but, it works for Chief...a compromise.  You could always use the "auto detail" to kind of amend the detail to exactly what you want without Chief wanting to extend the face of the foundation wall up to the roof. 

Here are some pics...and plan is attached for review.  KWhitt - Custom Wall type and Foundation Plan 20-0810.zip

@kwhitt @DzinEye 

It's quirky...I have no solution.  Made a quick loom video so you can see what happens...https://www.loom.com/share/f58852097c1d4f03ad306de53b670f09

@kwhitt - you should post the plan or a sample plan. To quote Joe...”c’mon man”...

@EcoTed - I’ve done some Dormer videos that may help you...

heres one: 

@robdyck - great comments. 

Placing a door through an invisible wall can create some issues...

   

@wjmdes -

What @solver said above.  If you have a runner you will probably have to remove it...

You can do it..but you may have to get out the big stick and beat Chief to death...

@HumbleChief - we agree 99%
 

I’ve had the chance to use both a simple PDF markup software and BB. If they made a MAC version and I found I had the need - I would purchase it.  
 

But - it’s definitely a personal choice and not for everyone.  

@stevenyhof 

you can mess around all day trying to get Chief to build a porch just the way you want it - and never reach utopia.  
 

Ive decided my time is to valuable. So - most of the time I create a basic porch - either lower the floor by an additional 1/8” or just make it a room without a floor.  The I use the room molding polyline and convert it to a countertop-add a beveled edge molding-make the top 8” thick and change the material to concrete.  I set  the top elevation using the absolute elevation.  Done.  Then I move on to other things that make me crazy - like the stairs.  

15 hours ago, HumbleChief said:

Been using Foxit for a very long time. Have no idea how it compares to BlueBeam, which I don't consider 'reasonably priced', but it has served me for years for my perhaps simple PDF needs.

 

https://www.foxitsoftware.com/shopping/

Reasonable depends. A simple PDF markup software cannot compare to the abilities in Bluebeam. And - BB has tools directly related to construction built into the program. I would agree that for most of us it might be overkill...but if you can afford it - it’s a great program. When I was using it I was working for a large production home builder where efficiency outweighed the expense.  

1 hour ago, Apollosg said:

How do I draw a curved soffit?  I have tried a few different things with mixed results.  

 

1.  I drew an invisible curved wall, that enclosed the space to be a separate room.  This framed the wall correctly (somewhat) for the drawings but the wall doesn't show up on the 3D view.

2.  Created a polyline solid, curved the face and changed type to drywall.  This created the exact look I wanted in 3D, but there is no framing on the framing layer.  Should I have put this on the "Cabinet - Soffit" layer when converting?  Also trying to make this a trey ceiling with a -12' value.  It created the lower framing, but created an error.

3.  Tried everything I could think of with pony walls and railings, but they still confuse me a bit.

4. Used the cabinet soffit tool.  This does not seem to allow for curves and odes not create framing.

 

 

Do you ignore framing and create a detail drawing?

 

As a new user I am still trying to understand the correct way to achieve things in CA.

 

Gary

First - post the plan or at least a sample plan. You will get accurate answers to your question...otherwise all you will get are good guesses. 

15 hours ago, jonow6 said:

Hello all,

I am new to CA and am having trouble getting the bottom of my 'wall/railing' to match the material of the rest of my porch. I have tried using the material eyedropper which doesn't want to work. I also went into the wall type and made sure it was just one layer. Not sure what I'm missing...

 

@solver gave you the answer.  Just change the material in the wall definition.  In the example he posted he created a single layer wall for the wall type and used stone as the material.  Done.  

9 hours ago, glennw said:

 

Steve,

There is another way to do this.

Go to the Wall Definition dbx and enter -4" in the Foundation Offset.

This will increase the size of the slab, leave the wall where it is and it will not push out the roof.

In the plan, you will need to hide the invisible walls and draw cad lines (or some other method) to represent the true size of the slab.

I suspect, using your molding method, that in a 3D vector view, you would see the line between the slab and your molding polyline? 

Thanks.  Good info.  

53 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:

Steve, I think I just watched your screen porch videos. At one point you changed the thickness of the wall to increase the size of the porch conc. Maybe I’ll have to mess with that to add the 4” I like outside my columns. But then I guess it will push out on the roof also???

Steve - a railing wall will center on the width of the wall type. The only issue is the room ceiling also extends to the  width of the wall.  This can be a problem at times. 

@stevenyhof - I made this quickie "loom" video just the other day for someone else asking about porches.  It doesn't cover every topic...but, it does show how to use railing walls for your porch walls...which is the easy way to get your posts and a beam right where you need them. 

Here's a link to the video:  https://www.loom.com/share/a2dba97a4f2947c4a81c0d21a5b104a6

@builtright3 - I'll just say this about Bluebeam.  It isn't just a PDF annotation/markup software...it has been designed for construction use. It has tools you will relate to and know how to use.  See if you can get a trial version...give it a shot.  It's an amazing piece of software.  

That said, If all you need is a markup program to add some text notes, arrows and some other simple text to a PDF...then yes, something less expensive would be a smart move.