SNestor

2 hours ago, DzinEye said:

Steve, just curious... Are you switching over to 'loom' from YouTube or just trying it out or something else?

I'm not switching...just saving time. I use it when the answers are "simple"...

1 minute ago, ACADuser said:

And for the complaining carpenters, the short front parapet wall, we have the truss company provide a ladder truss(s) to sit on top of the roof trusses.

 

Yep...much faster and cheaper really.  Did it all the time in my "apartment" days. 

6 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

I drug one roof truss into place, then pulled the ends over the wall as desired, locked the truss & transform replicate the rest.

 

20-2052 600 Floyd - AB.zip

Thanks...that's what I thought you did.  I think the OP was asking if it could be done automatically...and I think the answer is no. If you drag the roof over the front wall then you can't have a parapet...unless you use a p-solid or molding polyline.  

19 minutes ago, DH7777 said:

How do I do that?

Made you a quick video...https://www.loom.com/share/ab78afb3a7154c29b1ee5c92c85f68b5

There are a number of ways you can change the color/material...

2 minutes ago, jwaldie said:

That's perfect Steve. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the input and video.

Glad to help...check out my YouTube page...lots of videos.

20 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

Bill,

My process is to draw Railing Walls in the attic. Set the height as desired.
You can use the railing cap for the top of wall flashing but a molding line may be best at the rear top of the wall.
The roof plane will cut the rear wall. Set the 2nd-floor ceiling structure to 0 so the parapet walls will build on the top plate.
Framing for me is like foundations, use the auto to get the basics correct then switch to manual framing.
The front parapet wall can sit on top of the trusses. I like 8 to 10" min height to allow flashing & cap.
Although I have one contractor that just add a flashing to top of trusses. I think this is messy when transitioning to the side walls.

To get the front wall on top of the trusses, frame the wall at your 44" or whatever & then with wall selected open the Wall Detail. Make sure the framing layer is unlocked, select the bottom plate, use transform replicate & raise the plate in the Y direction as needed.
With the plate still selected trim the studs. Simple as that. OH forgot, if the studds are too short there is a bug in Chief that will not trim them properly.

In that case drag on stud into place, delete the others & transform replicate the correct length studs into place.

 

Can you post your plan...or a quick sample plan?  And...did you auto build those roof trusses? 

35 minutes ago, jwaldie said:

 

Thanks for your input and I'm glad to hear it. It's one of those things where you try it out and ask as many questions as possible in the beginning so you're not stuck regretting the time and money invested in making the switch.

I'm not so concerned about judging CA, but more so whether the capabilities are there and whether they built-in functions or if you have to use workarounds to get the desired end result. From the videos I have seen and the little I have used it, it seems like a great program, but to the extent that it is up to me, I want to avoid any regrets.

A porch like you are describing is "easy" in Chief.  I made you a quickie "loom" video. Click the link...https://www.loom.com/share/a2dba97a4f2947c4a81c0d21a5b104a6

@builtright3 - Bluebeam has a YouTube page...you should watch some of the videos.  Bluebeam is a tool designed for construction and PDF's.  I used it for 2 years without any training...and was amazed at what it could do.  And...I never scratched the surface. 

Here is a link to their Youtube page: 

@builtright3 - looks like you can purchase for 349.00.  Well worth the price.  I clicked on "store" and it took me to this page...

Bluebeam if you are on a PC.  Incredible program...I wish there was a MAC version. 

2 hours ago, HumbleChief said:

I want to be able to change all window and door trim colors between black and white using a style palette but there are 3 types of exterior doors; sliders, bi-folds and hinged and it looks like only one type can be 'added' to a style palette. I would love to learn how they can be used in this instance. Is it possible?

 

Too funny how posting these questions sometimes brings up the answer while posting. I usually delete the post as I answer my own question but perhaps this will help someone out there.

 

I'll try 3 different style palettes, one for each door type. Should work fine. Thanks for the help.

same issue for interior doors.  The style pallet will only change one type of door - so you have to have a pallet for each int door type.  Kind of makes it a PIA.  

@cajunland - One option:  you could use a pony wall.  See attached.  

Option 2: Use a wall material region.  

4 minutes ago, DianeP said:

Looks like you both got it .  I will give it a go.  Thanks!  

I made you a quickie video on how to center the window...hope it helps.

https://www.loom.com/share/8d2c66adba6a43f2a6b8b0d60cc30c9b

to edit your roof planes you should do some editing of the roof plan layerset.  Make the roof plane layer a solid line...dark blue (or a color you like) and make it 50 thick.  Turn off the gutter layer and turn off the "roof overhang" layer.  You don't need to see these right now and they just clutter up your view. 

The first thing you should do is use the plan view "roof plan view"...then open the layerset and make the edits.

8 minutes ago, DianeP said:

I have tried dragging in the roof plane so that it cuts this wall and it still acts like the wall  is there and won't let me center the bonus room window on the gable peak.  I have drug the wall down as well and that didn't work.  What simple thing am I missing? I have attached the plan.  It is in x12.  Thanks!!!

CA_Jepsen_Residence.plan

Your roof plane does not touch the wall...see pic attached.  That said...once you get the roof plan next to the brick - in order to center the window you will need to open general wall defaults and turn off "auto rebuild attic walls".  Then...move the attic wall that you see on the second floor plan that is right where you want the window...pull it away.  Then, center the window.  Then you can put the attic wall back where it's suppose to be.  

Roof plane...move it to brick.

Window -  

24 minutes ago, kwhitt said:

In this view looking at the skylight, there does appear to be something going on above the roof beams and T&G.

I thought the same but it’s probably just the skylight curb. Just guessing.  
 

Still guessing but maybe the T&G ceiling is a couple inches thick...then maybe a sheathing layer the the shingles?  

25 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:

I have been setting up all my defaults and preferences, and also working with walls and setting up my User defaults, etc.

Today I wanted to begin to learn about roofs. However, watching the video(s) where I am shown where I can change roof options, like Full Gable, nothing happens.

Is there another settings that I somehow turned off?

~Thank you

Just a quickie how to video on the basics of "auto rebuild roofs"....https://www.loom.com/share/21b8e84e29774066ae6a29c4db186c60

1 hour ago, kwhitt said:

 

Thanks again for you time.  I think this will be close enough for now.  That said, would it work better if I were to draw the roof beams manually (as decorative beams)?  Is this how most users go about it?  I ask as Chief's videos highlight this method.

Did you need to raise the rafters 11.5"?

Not sure if you need/want a roof structure...but, if you edit the roof "surface" and add framing at least you will get a roof system above the beams. Not sure how to deal with the gap that's created at the wall...maybe a P-Solid...or, blocking.   

I did this all via "auto rebuild roofs" and "auto framing" on...

1 hour ago, AlmiraDesign said:

I am having a difficult time with the framing of the rafters; in regards to birds mouth specifically. I am looking for assistance as I have tried many different options in aligning them to the beams. Please help me! I'd greatly appreciate it!

 

Ps, I only began to notice the difference, when I changed depth of hip rafters to 3.5".

First...what is the "problem"

Second...please post a plan so we can look at what you are doing.

Thanks!

4 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:

I have watched them, and several several times - but as I do things I forget the details. 

I like to work through things until I find the process, and then documents that process so I can repeat it. But I am continually going back to revisit the videos.

This is something that I have not seen covered specifically and I was having a hard time making what I did see apply the same way - but I'm getting it.

@stevenyhof - good for you.  Yes - split level homes in Chief can make a person crazy.  They are complex.  And - many of the Chief videos only skim the surface and never seem to dive into potential complexities. 

9 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:

I got it!

I was trying to put a point to point and manual dimension on the foundation, but when I drag the dim to the right it changes to another point- whatever! I'm trying real hard not to bank my head against a wall. 

Have you watched the Chief videos? You may pick up a good tip or two...

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/9917/focus-creating-a-split-level-home.html

The layerset for each camera view is defined in defaults under "camera tools".  See attached pic...

Your layerset is probably not the same as mine...but if you look here you will find the layer that controls what your are seeing in your 3D view.

1 hour ago, PMMully said:

I have glass pony walls and a glass shower door in a design. It all looks great except I would like to make the glass slightly more visible via the tempered glass selection (which looks greenish). Right now I can only see the hinges and door handle. I was looking for an opacity setting or something like that. I want the glass clear, but slightly visible. Is this doable? Thanks in advance.

Suggestions above work...pic attached explains how to change the color of the material.  Note: this will change the color of this material everywhere in your plan...not just here.  

Just now, stevenyhof said:

Yes it is

Yea...so my suggestion is not the problem.  Might check to make sure the wall is aligned correctly with the wall above.  Sometimes the main layers get screwed up when you use pony walls.

Click on the wall in plan view...and look for this symbol....

@stevenyhof - without the plan it’s hard to say.  You might open the wall DBX and make sure walls top is default.