SNestor

I took a shot...see attached;  1st plan - Steve Edits.plan

You might want to check out my Screened Porch Library.  It’s amazing…

https://www.mychiefskills.com

35 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

Big fan of Steve. I have not done one-on-one with him but I have worked with some of his trainees and have had good experiences. I am always quick to recommend him.

Thanks for the endorsement!  

I offer 1:1 Chief Architect training via Zoom. You can learn more here on my website; My Chief Skills Training

Have questions...feel free to email me at steve@mychiefskills.com

I also offer a library that helps you to create Screened Porches...check it out here: Screened Porch Library

I have a YouTube page also...check it out; ChiefSkills

I’m hoping that Chief takes full advantage of the new ARM based system that Apple is moving towards. Also - full adoption of “metal” which is Apples graphics engine. 
 

At this moment Apple can’t beat the Nvidia 3080 or 3090 cards…but the M1 chip is just step #1 for Apple. The M1 is fast, their laptops have unmatched battery life. Try unplugging an Intel laptop with a 3080 and see what happens. It’s not a pretty picture. 
 

Intel has reached the end of the road with its chip design. The amount of watts it has to feed these powerful Nvidia cards creates an incredible amount of heat…which in turn degrades performance. They know this and believe me - they are working fast to catch up - and they will catch up and might even surpass Apple. 
 

Chief will eventually write their software to take advantage of everything that ARM based computers excel at. Fingers crossed. 
 

Disclaimer - I’m not a computer guru at all…but I’ve watched a lot of YouTube videos on this subject and I like where Apple is going. 

1 hour ago, Gregg_Design said:

Does anyone know how to provide for a wall/ceiling intersection to have a reveal (gap) instead of moldings?

 Two ways that I can think of quickly...

1 - Wall material region along the top edge of wall

2 - Create a pony wall with the top section of the pony wall to have a thinner interior layer than the wall type below. 

See screen clips:

3 hours ago, ChiefJeet said:

Thanks Steve for taking the trouble to do two video.

This is not correct as the wall plate is normally on the inner skin

This is a same clip with a correct position of wall plate.

I think I will put this to CA to see if it is a bug or there is a setting somewhere to correct it. 

Thanks again

 

I've done a little testing. I created a new plan. Created a similar wall type. I did not have this issue. Rafters built what I'd call normally...so, maybe it's something in the way you have your wall defined. Send it in to Chief...see what they think.

@HumbleChief - I believe (and I'm guessing) that the reason is that Chief takes the pitch and creates the baseline elevation...so, when you open a wall and change the pitch, the baseline is still locked at the position created by the higher pitched roof....which pushes the lower roof down. 

I'm guessing...so don't go to the bank with this info. 

16 hours ago, joey_martin said:

That box/bay windows date back to the begging of residential construction in America and yet, we have to jump through hoops to complete this task in a professional residential design software package.

Stairs go back a long way too...and the stair tool is lacking also. I hope I live long enough to see some improvement in the stair tool...

@ChiefJeet

Here's a video using your plan...

ChiefJeet - auto rebuild roof using lowest pitch first - Watch Video

3 hours ago, glennw said:

 

As far as I know, this is incorrect.

As long as auto roofs is toggled on, you can change the roof info in any wall at any time and the auto roof will reflect those changes.

I don't understand why you are saying that you have to start with the lowest pitch.

Am I missing something?

@ChiefJeet
 

What I'm saying is correct to a degree...see video. If I'm missing something I'm sure someone will let me know 

Starting with lowest pitch w/Auto Rebuild Roofs - Watch Video

8 hours ago, ChiefJeet said:

The double storey roof has a pitch of 35 degree and the single storey has a pitch of 12.5 degree.

If I set the default roof pitch to 35 degree and set the roof pitch within wall spec to 12.5 degree, auto roof will draw the roof with 12.5 degree pitch at a lower wall plate height which results in sloping ceiling as shown in the clip. 

 

If I set the default roof pitch to 12.5 degree and set the roof pitch within wall spec of the upper roof to 35 degree, then the lower roof will be drawn correctly but the upper roof will have a higher wall plate height.

 

Would anyone know if there is another setting I should be changing? I am aware that I can change the roof heights manually but I am trying to avoid having to do that in order to benefit from auto roofs.

File attached

 

Thanks in advance

Roof lower wall plate.plan 3.34 MB · 2 downloads

If you are going to use auto roofs...you have to start with the lowest pitch. Then, auto build the roof.  

Leave "auto rebuild roofs" turned on. 

Now...move to the 2nd floor and open each wall for edit, roof tab, and change the pitch to 35 degrees. 

The roof will auto build and all your rafters will be in the correct elevation. 

Alternate strategy;

Create the molding as Glenn described...draw a small section of it...maybe without the handrail and convert this small section into a railing panel symbol. This way...you can drop a doorway into the railing and create an opening. Otherwise...you will have to place breaks into the molding polyline. Not a big deal...but creating the railing panel is simple and becomes part of the wall.  Chief always provides more than one to accomplish things...

1 hour ago, solver said:

@J_Mack - Eric's idea is the best and quickest

The steps: 

 Check "shelf ceiling"

 Uncheck "flat ceiling over this room"

 In the structure area...specify the height of the ceiling in the room - 90"

2 hours ago, J_Mack said:

Hi!

I have 90"H walls in a room with very tall vaulted ceilings. For my interior walls, I drew them as railings with solid rail style (so it looks like a wall). My railing height is set to 90," and I deleted the wall cap. The problem is that my door and sidelights look like this - see attached. The door casing and frame go up 90" to the top of the "railing" (wall) instead of 80" which is what I specified the door height to be. My interior doors are specified as 80" tall so there should be 10" of drywall above them. Why is this not displaying correctly?

Thanks for your help!   

 

You could make the wall a "pony wall".  

Std Interior-4 on bottom (90" tall) and a new wall type on top...make it a single layer wall and use "open no material" as the material type for the wall. Align the walls. If you need a wall cap use a molding polyline.  

Also...make the "open no material-4" wall type a "partition wall"...otherwise it'll remove your ceiling material the width of the wall.

The only downside is that in vector view the material will appear solid....

See below;

5 hours ago, HumbleChief said:

 

Yeah pretty darn confusing.

to quote JB..."c'mon man".

I'll admit to a new user it can seem a bit overwhelming (aka confusing) but not if you stop to think about it. 

Chief gives us the power to setup a typical floor/ceiling platform default. You can then move to the floor defaults and make changes to those floor platforms as needed.

So...lets say you have a 3-story house placed on a monolithic slab. You can set your floor/ceiling platform default to be wood framed (9.25" joists + OSB), then open your Floor Levels>1st Floor and change the 1st floor to 4" concrete...which of course is not your "default" floor platform...but it's now the default for the 1st Floor. Now, head on over to Foundation and check the box "hang 1st floor platform inside foundation walls".

So...you have a default platform...but you also have a 1st Floor default. When you build the 2nd and 3rd floors you will get a wood floor with OSB sheathing. If you had specified the 4" concrete as your default platform to accommodate your desire for a 4" slab on grade floor on the 1st Floor...then, all your floors in your plan would be built this way.

You shouldn't have to change the framing defaults as long as the "floor structure" box is checked in the framing DBX....which typically it always is unless you deliberately changed this in the template plan you are using.

As far as "rooms" go. My suggestion is you don't mess with changing anything in a room unless the floor or ceiling system has to be modified to accommodate a condition. Otherwise...just change your defaults. 

See...it's not confusing.  

@KellySantaRosa - Open the dialogue for the callout, navigate to the "attributes" tab and change the weight. This only changes the weight of the line itself. 

Change Attribute lineweight for Callout - Watch Video

17 hours ago, DeLayDesign said:

 

Good to know!  I'll have to give this a try.  I do notice the OSB isn't inline with the foundation though... I wonder if offsetting it the negative osb thickness if it'll push my sill plate over.  I'm thinking no, but maybe.

If you specify that the foundation builds to the OSB...then, the foundation plate will center itself on the main layer of the wall above it. The only time Chief gives us some minimal control over the width of the foundation plate is when you specify that the foundation aligns to the outside edge of the main layer of the wall above.

2 hours ago, rgardner said:

FYI not sure if you saw there was a small update released today that specifically handles a bunch of Mac issues.

Thanks Ryan..I didn’t see that

One more thing - you may want to check out some reviews on YouTube regarding the 10-core iMac. Most benchmark tests reveal that it’s not a worthwhile upgrade. 
 

@RRABuilders - I recently purchased a new Intel based MAC. If you can wait…I’d wait. The graphics card on the MAC isn’t going to get you real time ray tracing. 
 

X13 crashes on my brand new and quite powerful MAC at least once a day. 

@Kbird1  @DeLayDesign

If you specify that the foundation builds to "fir framing"...basically the outer edge of the main layer of your exterior wall...then, you can change the size of the foundation plate up to the width of the foundation wall. 

For instance, you can specify a 2x8 foundation plate and use a 2x4 exterior wall...if you specify that the foundation builds to "fir framing". However, if you specify a 2x10 inch foundation plate...the 2x10 will center itself on the main layer of your exterior wall. The foundation plate works great as long as it's not wider than the foundation wall itself....and if you specify that the foundation builds to the "fir framing" layer of your exterior wall. 

Chief is crazy... 

@Kbird1 - yes, modifying the auto detail fill works for sections…but if you size the foundation plate too large it could stick through the wall and depending on layer settings the plate might appear through the siding in an elevation or 3D view. 
 

A good practice is to define the foundation wall plate the size of the wall above so the 3D model builds correctly - and then make mods to any wall sections. 

3 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

I would call this a bug myself the mudsill should always be flush to the outside of the foundation wall, no matter it's width.

M.

Yes...I agree, the plate should not center on the wall above...it should align with the edge of the foundation wall. Especially since you specify the size of the plate in the foundation wall specification dialogue. 

It should...but, it doesn't work that way and hasn't for as long as I've used the program.

@DeLayDesign - See video for explanation of how to build your foundation to the OSB layer. The answer is related to the plate width defined in your foundation wall default.

Adam Delay - Building Foundation to OSB Layer - Watch Video