SNestor

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Posts posted by SNestor

  1. There isn't an "auto" solution really...busy work.

     

    I attempted to use a transom window, changed the glass material to color-white and moved the window more toward the exterior of the window. This looks ok from the exterior...but of course you'll have a transom window on the interior...which I'm sure you don't want. 

     

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  2. @dshall

    Scott - you are correct, when rebuilding the framing the plate does disappear...of course it's easy enough to manually place a plate there...but, yea, because it's a pony wall the plate actually wants to build on the top of the wall...so, my "open no material" idea works somewhat...but ultimately it's only an illusion.

     

    One thing that is important to notice....when I changed the foundation wall to an 8" conc. stem wall...the foundation fixed itself. The monoslab abutting the foundation doesn't seem to have anything to do with the weird behavior of the 6" conc. stem wall extending through the floor framing. 

  3. 1 hour ago, Chrisb222 said:

     

    Like Steve said, the gable sub fascia is part of the problem, but I need it to be the same as it will be built

     

    Chris - where do you get a 6 3/8" Sub Fascia?

     

    Why can't you just construct the roof with a 5.5" Sub Fascia...and adjust the size of the fascia board to limit the offset between the soffit and the bottom of the fasica? Seems to me this provides a similar result...and it eliminates the issue with the porch beam. 

     

    Just FYI. I just opened the X13 Residential Template. And constructed your plan with auto rebuild roofs turned on. The software placed the baseline directly over the main layer of the porch wall (Interior-4) as it was supposed to with "automatic birdsmouth" checked.  When I unchecked this box...the baseline moved inward...but it didn't seem to move the roof plane. :blink:

     

  4. Yes - but in my video I used auto build roofs and the baseline was never placed in the wall center.  


    The baseline is a line that extends from the exterior surface of the main layer to the top surface of the rafter…so why would Chief move the baseline inward towards the wall center? Weird behavior for sure.  And - changing the room type would correct the beam elevation.  Weird

    • Upvote 1
  5. @ChiefUserBigRob - just an idea...would not say it's ideal but here you go.

     

    I used a pony wall for the frame wall...just a short 3" tall section of 8" CMU and a wider brick sill. The wider is just to make it appear to be a sill. I created a new material for the sill (made a copy of the dark brown brick material), changed it's orientation etc. It's not a perfect solution. Using a molding polyline would be faster, easier...but there are always a number of ways to do things in Chief. 

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    • Like 1
  6. On 2/4/2022 at 11:54 AM, djhplanning said:

    I'm having trouble finding a setting to control how my exterior wall is placing itself to the sill plate vs. sitting on top of the subfloor.  Something changed on my template file that I use.  The floor system is inset from the exterior wall.  I've tried looking through both wall, floor and framing system settings and can't seam to find the correct setting.  1587134832_ScreenShot2022-02-04at10_53_03AM.thumb.png.6d6ac2dd9a5fe4fa3bead15952ac1e23.png

     

    Dan - quite a simple issue. Watch the video....it's the little things in Chief that can drive you crazy

    Dan Heid - Floor Framing Issue (Wall Definition Problem) - Watch Video

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    • Upvote 2
  7. @RJBPILOT - lots of things going on with this plan. 

     

    The first thing I'd do if I were you is "reset to defaults"...I'd reset walls top/bottom.  You have a number of walls where you moved the top of bottom...not something I'd recommend you do.

     

    Next, open the plan defaults and specify the default floor/ceiling platform...then open each room on the second floor and check them to use the default "floor structure".

     

    I would build the dormer manually...so much easier and much more control.  

     

    To build the general roof...I'd specify to ignore the 2nd floor, set roof pitches in the wall defaults, set gable and hip walls in the wall dbx, and "raise" the roof the depth of your default floor system (10.25") plus 1.5" for a plate to sit your rafters on...a total of 11.75".

     

    I would uncheck "trusses"...and I'd probably uncheck automatic birds mouth. Set birdsmouth seat to 3.5". The default birdsmouth seat will be based on the width of the main layer of your siding-6 wall on the first floor....but, you don't really need a 5.5" wall on the 2nd floor. 

     

    Once the roof is built...you will have to lower the screened porch roof to sit it on the top of the beam...so, turn off automatic roofs and lower the porch roof 11.75". Just use transform/replicate to move the roof down.

     

    To build the dormer, move the roof where the dormer is to be constructed up one floor, click on the roof plane and use the "create hole" tool (bottom toolbar) to cut a hole in the roof for the dormer walls to pop through. You'll have to create the dormer cheek walls..."roof cuts wall at bottom". Then draw the 3/12 roof on the dormer. 

     

    Regarding the Screened porch. You need to open the deck room and fix a few things;  Floor finish should be checked to use "default". (note: the deck planking is the finish...and it is specified in the framing). Also, at "planks, joists" you should check use default. Also, for the porch railing wall I would not use a "top plate"...just the bottom plate. It looks like you are using my Screened Porch Library...nice! The height of the railing walls should be the room height less the height of the beam (9"). So...88.125". 

     

    Open the Screened Porch room...and go to the deck tab. Check the box to automatically regenerate deck framing. Set plank direction and joist direction to automatic. 

     

    I've attached my "fixed" plan for you to review. :)

    Moller's Shed - fixed.plan.zip