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Posts posted by SNestor
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Save your money...the current iMac that Apple has released is a toy. The pro model is not due to be released until maybe October. Dammit....
As far as my research goes...Apple silicon M1 or whatever the next version is (M1X or M2) will be incredibly fast and efficient. The fan in the new iMAC may never come on. I'm not an expert...but I believe Apple will be placing their graphics GPU on the chip. Chief does not support the M1 chipset.
Apple isn't helping...the new super duper iMAC is long overdue. I'm going to probably purchase an intel based iMAC now...and trade it in next year if Chief gets onboard and X14 supports Apple GPU...whatever it turns out to be.
Quite frustrating to be an Apple user right now...and using Chief to make a living.
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@jasonn1234If you post your plan I'd be happy to take a look at it.
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I looked at your plan and could not fix it...so, gave it a try using my template and had no issues. So...not sure what to tell you. I've attached my example plan.
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14 minutes ago, joey_martin said:
@SNestor I haven't done a crawlspace in a while..almost all basements now. I have one builder up in Kokomo that still lays crawlspaces and uses either the solid or cored, whichever he can get his hands on.
Yea...I'd have to say that poured crawlspace walls is a by-product of big city-ism. Custom Concrete and Weber Concrete share ownership of all new foundations on the north side of Indy. Once you get away from their marketplace I'm sure using block is still very typical.
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Here in Indiana the "solid L-Block" was very common...for years.
However, with the proliferation of concrete pump trucks and eliminating the sand, mortar, block delivery and the scheduling of a block mason to build a crawl...almost every foundation here in central Indiana is constructed with poured in place concrete. It's faster, stronger and you eliminate a lot of waste and save a ton of scheduling/build time.
Foundation Example:
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Just a guess as I’m not near a computer.
The size of the mudsill is controlled by the foundation wall. I bet it’s specified as 5.5”…probably need to make it 3.5”
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Oh - another post on the same topic. Maybe I was snoozing…
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1 hour ago, glennw said:
Steve,
Maybe you nodded off for a while?
Nope - please point me to the plan.
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Post a plan…we are all guessing
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In your elevation view, select the trim object, open it for specification (little door in bottom toolbar) and find out what layer this piece of trim is on...or, just click the object in elevation and look at the very bottom of your screen...Chief will tell you what layer an object is on.
Then go to your plan view...and open the layerset and make sure the layer is turned on.
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This video might help you.
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@Alaskan_Son - nice tip.
Take mouse...beat Chief into submission.
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18 hours ago, JonathanWilliams said:
I missed that response with the video, just watched it. Thanks. I didn't know Chief would create hipped trusses to match the roof plane. I had previously watched a Chief video where they did that process with a gable roof and when they used the multiple copy tool it created identical trusses. I assumed it wouldn't change each truss as I copied.
So I deleted the roof framing and tried this and it works pretty well. Getting the Girders and diagonals correct is a challenge and if any are off then some of the jacks then generate as cantilevers rather than raised heels.
Thanks for your help.
Jonathon - the key to get Chief to build an energy heel is to enter a positive "raise off plate" value in the "build roof" dialogue box...of at least 7". Otherwise...you will not get an energy heel truss.
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23 minutes ago, gelbuilding said:
Just draw a wall, put it on the attic layer...or any layer that you can turn off. Don't make it an "attic wall".
You might start by pulling the roof to the wall above...that might be most of the problem...
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41 minutes ago, gelbuilding said:
Hi Joey,
nice one though,
I cannot replicate what you did
Put a wall like Joey said under the wall above...and place it on a layer you can turn off. Then...pull your roof up against the wall above...it's about an inch away.
You should also create a Saved Plan View just to see your "roof plan". It'll make you work much easier...
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I’ve done a number of videos on porches...
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Railing wall - post to beam. Specify the beam size in the rails tab of the railing wall specification dialogue box. You can choose a newel post (column) also...or set newel size to zero and manually place column symbols.
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2 hours ago, rgardner said:
Sorry to point out but I very purposely wrote “ceiling planes” work the same as roof planes with the wall cut by roof plane below. You only need 1 roof plane and 1 ceiling plane.
Thanks for that tip Ryan...I thought that was the case but I was attempting to do it above a railing wall...and the ceiling plane "roof cuts at bottom" does not work. See attached.
I'll have to use standard walls and set to "roof cuts at bottom"...then add my railings as "no locate"...or, possibly I may have to use a symbol.
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@rgardner - yea, I tried using a roof to create the sloping ceiling. Doesn’t work.
I have a 2nd roof above the roof I’m trying to use as a ceiling. When you check roof cuts wall at bottom it places the walls above the upper roof.
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Foundation floor changes elevation when closing a room off with a foundation wall
in General Q & A
Posted
I'm sorry...I did not see you had posted. However...I cannot open the file. You should post a .plan file format.