Gawdzira

If the chair image is for an elevation you can apply it as a material image (or a plant image) and bring it in. But, an image is just an image. If it needs to be a 3d object something has to be built.

The license is what you own. If you have upgraded and are using the current version then you are still using the license. It is illegal to sell the old disc and hasp if you are using the upgrades.

Thanks Joey. I have no idea why my eye kept stopping at the word Frame in the DBX and overlooking Framing. I remember having set this before. I think it is time to get some coffee.

Hello Peanut Gallery Nuts, I was killing time this morning with my third or fourth best source of entertainment (DS Hall Youtube Channel) while icing my thigh due to my old man baseball game injury. (BTW, I broke a bat swinging at an inside pitch last week so either I am a stud or that was a really good pitcher. We lost the game which is a hint.) In one of his vids he mentions the Auto Detail tool which I have never used. Again, similar to my broken bat. So I am experimenting with the tool and it brings up a few questions. 1. That piece of insulation sticking out of the roof. Seems easy to fix by grabbing the polyline and adjusting. Is there a way that this does not need tweaking besides making a flat roof? 2. Window headers. Where the heck to I adjust that for a single 4x member above the window? Thanks, Alan (a swing and a miss) Lehman test plan for auto detail.zip

That was sarcasm. I didn't really mean that. Why doesn't anyone understand me. Make CADD great again.

Speed kills.

X8? If so, follow the bouncing ball...

Try it this way. The way you are showing it is sending water to the wall in a big bad way.

I have hot keys set up for the electrical item placement. E,S = switch E,L = light E,R = outlet (receptacle) E,C = connection

Toomqr1, you are a rock star.

Micheal, the roof pitch you are suggesting to extend has the plate about 10' from where you want it to be.

The crickets are just roof planes. Place them and move them to the desired locations and heights.

Cheap, quick and pretty ugly solution. Have you explored turning the gable in the other direction?

When I first was learning Chief I bought 4 hours of one on one training from Chief. I used that training over about a 2 week period. I was actively working on my first project and generating a lot of questions. I would package those questions and get very specific help on the areas where I was getting hung up. I found this worked quite well. After that I went to this forum for a lot of help. You will find that if you ask a thoughtful question and provide a plan file and any images that can communicate the question well, you will probably get an answer back on this forum within an hour or two. Giving your question a clear title relating to the question will help you. A title like "Ahhhhhh, Help" is quite unclear. "Poly line won't connect" is clear. The key for me in learning CA was time at the computer. It does take a lot of time and consistent work on the program to pick up speed and find efficient methods that work for you.

And I thought my Facebook feed was venomous? I am going to go out and suck some saw dust for a few hours (along with smoke and ash from the Sobranes fire).

I like turtles.

The image you are showing (if you built it from scratch in CA) is 4 to 5 objects and one texture. It should take about as much time to build directly in CA as to search it on the 3d Warehouse.

section view shows different construction. C = clear, G= gray When I looked at the pic I posted it still appears slightly off. The actual glass material object thickness is changing it due to refraction.

If you select "Glass Standard" from the Library, rather than from the Plan Materials you will get the clear appearance. I think at some point you changed the Glass Standard Material in the plan file.

The door on the left in camera is Glass Gray. Ignore that one. The clear vs. the gray with "Glass Standard" seems to be based on the default setting. Someone else might be able to get this dialed in but I am not sure how to change what you have done.

Also, I have moved to using LVL's for stingers. 2x12 dimensional lumber is just too unreliable for my comfort. I generally use 1 3/4" x 11 7/8" LVL material

Draw a section of your situation. Notching the bottom of stair stringer without a wall below to carry it sounds like a bad idea in text. Can you support it at the notch?

Here you go. Randal's House-Layout.pdf

I am working on a project with a couple of various similar elements

Those windows flanking the fireplace might look good as squares. Changing from the vertical rectangles on the other wall to horizontal rectangles is not my favorite in this case. If they are squares, breaking to a lower head height might work better.