Gawdzira

Currently I just draw cad lines and then delete them. Except for the cad lines I don't delete and then notice them after printing and then slam my fist on the keyboard and then order a new keyboard from Amazon.

D.K. Ching. (drops mic.)

I would like to see this too. No Print Layer. I have a layer in my details sheet that I use for snapping and alignment. I have made it such an obnoxious color that it is easy to remember to turn off when I see it printed by mistake.

For exterior elevations I move the camera (temporarily) to the cross cut section zone. Then I can place CAD lines at the plate and sub floor to snap my dimensions to. Then move the Camera back.

Items like that I copy a table in from Open Office into a rich text box. This is pasted in:

Based on previous meetings I would block out 2 hours min..

Chief nails the measurement but you can not look at what is in the dimension. You need to copy the number. See images. This is the measurement of the dimension string : This is the real number that you can copy and paste:

Tony, the gable at the front bedroom #2 looks good. Any chance of repeating that on the back. You would avoid 2 angled walls which would be a cost savings (or offset cost to the gable end that would be created). And not that you are asking but, that entry is really a pinch point. Is this a remodel or a new home?

Is this a "Live Elevation"? If you are going to post the file you will need to open the layout and then do a "Backup Entire Plan" in order to have all the data needed to really answer your question. You will likely then need to upload to DropBox due to file size.

In the words of Dorothy: "Are you a good gripe or a bad gripe?" At least that is how I remember it.

Although you are asking for roof building information; I think you have a design issue with trying to push that angled bump in the wall so close to the corner. That is why the roof is not working visually. If you lower the roof and try to extend the angled end, it misses the wall and extends past the corner. If you want it higher it still is pushing past where something like this should be in relation to the corner of the house and roof. Design wise, I would carry a straight line of the roof over that bump out so you don't emphasize the protuberance. I can't tell if this is viable by the overall design of the building since you only posted a small snip of the house.

Looks like the main layer for the adjacent walls are different but posting the plan could clarify that. Guessing without the plan file.

Is it this?

I am on the latest version and it is happening.

The bug report has been sent in but from now on I have license to rename you Tom Sawyer.

I agree, this is confusing and it is a bit redundant that there are two places that would appear to do the same thing. Unfortunately it is the more hidden location that actually works.

I don't think you will have to live with this for long. Did you report it to tech support yet? If not, let us know and I will send this in. This is the type of bug that CA tends to jump on very quickly and get the fix out.

In the attached image, where you want to do the editing is in the Wall Type itself. Image one. Then edit the material here:

There is a very good video on how to punch up the materials for a better rendering in the CA videos.

Also, you are creating a layerset every time you send a view to layout. Do you like doing this? I like to work with my layout views having an associated layerset which is coming from the annotation set. If you are doing more than one set of plans in your lifetime it will be well worth your while to get a handle on what the annotation sets and proper use of the layer sets can offer you.

You have some of the walls called out to create those gables. See image. I am not sure why that roof plane is unselectable. That is strange but on rebuilding the roofs it goes away. Did you want that one to be a shed roof or continue the hip over that area?

This is the place where things become less automatic and require some technical and artistic talent to get the correct look.Here is a typical scenario: You find a tile pattern that you like and the image is set for 3x6 tile. Easy enough to change the tile size to 6x12 and double the scale of the texture image. But, once you do that the grout joint also doubles and you get a monster grout joint since the grout joint is a part of the texture image. In order to correct this you will need to find that image, alter it and bring it in as the new image for your tile. A little knowledge of Photoshop, Gimp or some other image editing software is required. In other news, did you install the Dal Tile library from the CA website? That really opens up the options.

87.75" or 221 cm, I am still pulling out my phone for the calculator. All I know is that I drop a lot of weight by changing to Kilograms. How awesome would that be to under 100.

Greg, take your tape measure out past 87, grab the dumb end of the tape and bring it to 87 3/4. Now look at the point where the tape is bent to get your number. That is the Eddie method. I worked with Eddie in Seattle and he had been a framer for production builders in California. Framers nailed studs to plates before the walls were stood up. Someone else did the layout on the plates. Framers did not nail in trimmers and headers (those guys were specialists). Eddie was unique for Seattle. My other carpenter had a B.A. in government and my laborer was studying for his G.R.E. to better himself after getting a B.A. in English literature.

If they are looking to render it sounds like they want a 3d model. If that is the case, go to a camera view and then export as 3ds.