Gawdzira

Yes, printing to a pdf is going to save a file that you can share with them.

From Layout, Print, choose a PDF driver

See attached. That is done with 3 layout boxes carefully placing the 2 on the right which are the bottom of the big schedule. Is there another trick to making the schedules so they conform better to my sheet size? SCHEDULE EXAMPLE TRASH.pdf

See attached images, 1. open the DBX for the object or wall? Double click it 2. Find the material and copy it 3. Change the material color

Rene, I got that part. I would like to be able to put that symbol other places.

Until someone smarter than us 2 comes along and shows us the secret handshake, here is an image to drop in if you happen to use Arial for your text.

Can I get this in a special character? Can I get an amen? A pizza?

I have been running into issues when sending files to engineers or surveyors that I output to DWG or DXF. My solution has been to first open my exported files and save with a free 3rd party CADD program called https://librecad.org/ Problem solved. I have not actually used the the program for anything but opening and saving files. It may actually be a great program (and free) but I would not be the person to ask about that. In fact, generally I forget that it is even installed on my computer. Another fun fact, I am not wearing pants.

What a tease, I have a ton of work that a talented, free draftsperson would be perfect for.

Most (all) of Monterey County jurisdictions use 5' as the cut off point for floor area. I did a project in the City of Monterey and there were steeply sloping ceiling areas. We only started the floor area calc based on the 60" shown in section.

On a side note, are you meeting code at your kitchen sink? If in California, you would need to have outlets within 24" of each side of the sink.

My mechanical installers would generally want a system for each floor. It is really hard to balance between floor.

I am having a strange dimensioning behavior. In the attached image, if I select a wall of the dimension string circled and move the wall, I lose the dimension where the X is shown. The file was too big to up load so there is a link to it. I am seeing this in other files as well. https://www.dropbox.com/s/y1mshejj0dmp2mg/REN CD V1A.plan?dl=0

Check your exterior walls. It sounds like your main layer is reversed.

I would suggest using Jintu's website as a rendering classroom. Study the camera angles and field of view of his shots. The angle of the sun can be a deal breaker too. You are pushing the distortion a little hard for my eye. One of the main elements that brings up the quality are textures. A great stucco or grass texture goes a long way. Once you start to build up your texture library it will be minor adjustments to get you to stronger presentations.

Vegan eggs? And you don't live in California? I am confused.

If the concrete is raw, I would paint it with Xypex to help with any future moisture issues. https://www.xypex.com/ For insulation, I would use closed cell rigid foam sheets cut between the sleepers. 1.5" would be plenty as it sounds like they are not requiring r-19. I don't like your ledger detail. I would put something more stout on where you are nailing hangers. Probably 1.75" x 11.25" LVL rim joist that gets some nails into the sleepers and bolted to the concrete. (that is how I would present a sketch to an engineer and then ask him/her is this will work?) Isolate is from the concrete with Bituthane. Absolutely put down a vapor barrier at the new crawl space. I would use 20mil plastic (Stego Wrap) fully taped at seams and running up the walls and taped to the walls.

Search your library for Narciss

It seems like if the combustible material is 12" below it would meet the code criteria for separation. I have an Isokern lightweight masonry fireplace on a current project that sits directly on wood framing but that is what they specialize in. https://earthcore.co/

This has to do with the placement of the foundation wall that is under your brick veneer layer. You may need to fake the foundation info to get the 3d model to correct. Someone smarter than me might have a better solution.

Here are some anno sets to import and check out. I have 3 scales I normally use. 1/4" (Floor Plan, etc) 1/8" (Site Plan, etc), 1" (details). I work with all of my layout boxes referencing a unique Anno Set rather than relying on the Layerset method. The Anno Set is in charge of the Layer set with my work flow. x10 latest 9-18-18 anno sets.cadefs

Joe, did you do some other mechanical system for yours? What was your eventual solution?

Interesting link. I just circled back to the dryer spec for the project I am just finishing up (building). My intention was to install a duct booster on the line because we exceed the code for California of 14'. See the pic for the dryer model manual regarding rigid ducting. We will have the equivalent of 3 90 deg elbows and about 20' of 4" rigid metal ducting. We were careful not to use screws in the duct work. Still, I am hesitant to do anything short of ensuring the client puts in that booster.

Good to know, thanks. I constantly have to educate my framers on how to at least make a California corner so I can keep the space open for insulation. For the t intersection I usually put a 2x6 flat with a stud on one side. Anywhere we can start to eliminate more thermal bridging makes me happy. Also, those ladder blocks are great usage for scrap material cut offs on site.

I don't have an answer for you. Hopefully I won't take this too far off topic but, when you specify that, are you calling for clips on the drywall at the corner joint?