Renerabbitt

I've maxed out on custom library buttons across my various templates unfortunately. My layout is certainly not for everyone but it works very well for me. big 40 " screen plan: 3d:

I also designed this kitchen with inset granite:

yes budget, and yes time consuming- We got it done pretty quick once. We installed windows and doors, then made a flooring template(piece of laminate with the foam underlayment staple to the bottom) placing our baseboard with a reveal channel ... on top of our floor template loosely, then nailing the base in which locked the channel in. Then spray the reveal and base and do the drywall last.

no it cuts the wall material completely and places a 1/16" material to your main layer directly

I usually can do a whole 2000 sq. ft. home with this method in about 10 minutes, and it looks fantastic in 3d. Not to mention it looks perfect in plan view as well- unless you are trying to graphically represent the recessed moldings in plan view

the base material I created has a 1/16" leg up -see picture EDIT: it doesnt look like it in the picture but it does have a 1/16" leg

Shoot guys I'm late to the party, I have a pretty fool-proof method I've been using since they introduced material regions..similar to whats already been discussed. looks good: Step 1: Make a custom 9/16" base molding like @Alaskan_Son mentioned and apply it to the room with an offset of 9/16" Step 2: Apply a pony wall- copy your existing wall type and simply change drywall the material to "insulation air gap". Step 3: set casing to the door at 3.5" x 1/16" like @Kbird1 mentioned Step 4: apply a 1/16" material region w/ "cut finish layer of parent object" checked around the door casing. Duplicate this material region and rotate about center of the door so you have it on both sides. No block these 2 material regions and add them to your library. You will need a pair of these material regions for each door/window size you plan on using this detail for

It's not about clockwise vs counterclockwise, its about start vs end. If you open up any wall DBX and look under the general tab, all walls are locked to their start by default, you can choose to lock their end or center. Like Graham mentioned, many of us work every day in this program and have no issues with walls moving on us, which would point to a user error if the inverse is true. Auto dimensioning as you work through a plan can substantially cut down on errors- especially if you set your program colors up in conjunction with your layer colors. this for example has auto-interior dimensions on a layer that is very light grey, with the program selection color being bright pink. When I select a wall it lights up every dimension that can be modified in bright pink.

You can also move your camera in plan view if you've got a really good grasp of angles and xyz space. For interior shots I set my Field of View to 70, and my tilt to -30 degrees at 60" height. Drag it to a very corner of a room and I'm done

https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArIPOe8v1SrkicRfvdk5iVyFvfloAA I must have one of my huge textures files in plan b/c its well over 25mb...let me know when you get it so I can delete from my drive..you'll be missing textures since I replaced the ones I was missing from your file. I have linear interpolation turned on, you should turn that off in terrain dbx if you plan on modifying

Michael was right, I should stop giving advice from memory, I meant that I usually use a spline terrain wall with a terrain break. The terrain retaining wall can be difficult in tight spaces- The terrain wall isn't necessary but from my own experience everything seems to workout better when I have it in place, even if I set it to invisible, not sure that makes sense from a program language stand-point...maybe its just my feel good method.

When I want clean sharp drop-offs I use terrain breaks with retaining walls, even if the walls have a grass material applied and are only 1/16" inch thick. Remember to avoid crossing elevation data, as in, avoid crossing an elevation line over an elevation region with conflicting data...think of terrain as molding a piece of clay, everything needs suggested transitions, you can't force it.

You may find it faster to use material regions and the multiple copy tool to make individual tile, this can be made to look very realistic as well...did this back in 2013 using that method:

might consider reducing the file size of imported pdfs might also consider clicking the "save in plan" ticker under "general" in your imported image/pdfs DBX. Take it a step further and create a screen clipping of the pdf you need imported into CA and import an image instead of a PDF. If you are having a slow print to PDF and you have no imported items then the problem is in a camera view or as mentioned previously the resolution of the print.

youll be doing yourself a huge favor by learning to use the end to end dimension tool..here is the plan: rocky shape.plan

forums wont let me upload the plan file no matter what i try...no idea why

Every cad line has a start and end point, under "selected line" you can either lock the star or the end point. Easiest method is to draw your shape in a clockwise order and then edit in a clockwise order. Helps to snap dimensions to your lines

Just an FYI, have had problems with 4 sets of La Cantina doors. On each set the last panel was pinned to the track on the hinge side as opposed to the striker side. When the doors are opened incorrectly (which is very easy to do even when familiar with proper operation) the weight of the last panel pulls the next panel into a twist and it breaks its weather seal. The magnetic catch on the door is just on the bottom, I feel as if it should be top and bottom to prevent the weight of the doors falling over and creating this same problem. Within a few weeks their is a fog on the inside of the glass. Just something to be mindful of ..seems to make sense to have the last panel ordered with a pin to the track to avoid such a aituation

Yes pbr...so fast

Designed this kitchen in 4 hours for a friend. Started at 10pm tonight and finished just now. It's not perfect, and some materials could use some help and some models could use some updating, but its a good reference for what can be accomplished with decent materials and models and some know-how in a short time frame: Maybe if I had some patience I would really polish these out but that would be on my time

Another Cali guy here as well, I'm in the North Bay...take your pick!

Why can't we get a decent track light system!!!...It's okay I made one = This library item is an architectural block. Within it is a stretchable track and 5 heads, each rotated a bit different than the other. Enjoy! download here: RABBITTS TRACK LIGHT ASSEMBLY.calibz

Glen, FYI part of the problem is that some of the roof planes have sides that are slightly off 90 degrees etc, things aren't perfectly snapped...might want to draw some cad reference lines and show him the "make parallel/perpendicular tool

I appreciate the post and the idea of a streamlined as-built process but I think some of my preferences for doing as-builts would make me stay away from her setup. My main issue is having to use an on-screen keyboard. Windows keyboard in tablet mode leaves much to be desired and I take notes about site observations as I go. The more info I can record with less time I spend on site is the goal. Sometimes a laser measuring device doesn't cut it and you have to break out a tape measure and then input via keyboard. I think the biggest difference in As-builts is a combination of great, great ,GREAT annotation sets, hot keys programmed to a mouse for say auto-exterior and interior dimensions, and common library items programmed to your toolbar.... having a few tricks up your sleave to tackle common problems helps as well. Take this screenshot: You can see in my toolbar I have one button clicks for common windows, meters, panels, switches, fans, as well as materials, tile, countertops, color tints, layer hiders, various cabinets, d/w, fridge etc. In this same screenshot is an ugly lil As-built I did yesterday...I was on site for 2 hours. I noted elevations from grade, setbacks from center of road using the assessors parcel map, elevation data from google earth, foundation and framing specs from California Residential Code. This is a split level house with an underground addition and some funny roof details. I think all things considered 2 hours is a reasonable amount of time and all I had was a huge and heavy 17" laptop, a 12-button mouse, a laser measuring device(non-bluetooth, an old Hilti PD-32) and a 16' tape. I use up to 3 "takeoff" annotation sets. 1 where dimensions are a very light grey with dimensions snapped to sides of openings, and another duplicate where cimensions snap to center. The third is for site measurements. Notice the dimensions are barely visible until I click on an item, and then everything that the item can be dimensioned from is highlighted in bright pink. Very easy to see. Every new architectural element that is added, I simply hit a key on my mouse and it updates the exterior and interior dimensions. Dimensions are truncated to whole inches even though the program will calc in fractions. This is so its simpler to see all dimensions