My First Pony Wall


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I never told The Chief to put that ugly vertical edge trim bare board there did I? Also what happen to my sill between the stone and siding do I need to tell The Chief I want one of those? 

 

Chief and I seem to b e having communication issues lately ;)

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Ok Thanks Ray but I still do not understand.

 

I tired to delete it and re-limit the wall to the edge and it won't go, snaps back. I don't understand why it put a bare trim board there to begin with?

 

Is there a way to auto generate sills or do I need to create them?

 

Anyone?

 

My plan is attached.

 

Thanks, need complete answers I am new to CA.  

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ParaFlex_Test.plan

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If I'm not mistaken, you pony wall thickness is off. You only have 4" of brick, its missing framing, sheetrock, sheeting, air gap, etc

 

If you edit all the walls you created it will connect without creating that problem in the corner... That corner that you see is the corner stud of the adjoining wall, also make sure your walls line up with the footing below. Ray told you how to make a brick ledge, here is a the Brick Ledge Moulding profile if you want to use. Just use a line tool and make the width you need and I would turn the ends 1" or so to get a nice return on end sides.  

Brick Ledge Profile.calibz

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Pony wall config is problem, when I use your lower pony wall you can see same results as yours. When I use an in program pony wall it covers corner. Layers in your custom wall are not getting along.

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Ok thanks! I don't now it I'm using the wrong function but I did not see stone veneer in the program like brick so I created a pony wall. I'm trying to install a veneer like this: http://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Siding-Stone-Veneer/N-5yc1vZc85v

 

There is no sub framing/insulation like EIFs. 

 

Then I need to figure out how to add a stone upper drip sill. 

 

I design aircraft all day using CATIA for 3D, and Autocad for drawings I am not that found of, my spec homes evening's and weekends. The product design is different than object in Chief so it's throwing me a little.  

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I would recommend you use one of Chief's existing wall types, make a copy and rename it as desired and then change the exterior material to your stone material.  If it is a manufactured stone product, go to the manufacturer's website and find what the thickness should be (I am guessing ±2").  Make sure your lower pony wall layers match exactly how the stone manufacturer specifies their stone to be used. 

 

You can fix that corner by using the Edit Wall Layer Intersection tool in the edit tool bar once you select your wall(s).  To learn more about that tool, go to Help (F1) and see how it can be used.

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To add the molding cap, select the "outside room" and then click on the Make Room Moulding Polyline tool in the edit tool bar.  You can set the height of the molding above the floor ... in your case set it to 48", you can specify the molding shape, you can specify the molding to extrude on the inside or outside (use outside), and you can specify the molding material to use (as well as it's dimensions).  Depending on which of those two pages of Home Depot products you want to use, you may want to create a custom molding profile that mimics whatever sort of cap that is sold for your specific product.  You can learn about all this stuff by doing searches in Help and by watching Chief's tutorial videos or reading their database articles on the website.

 

Edit:  I forgot to mention that for the exterior room moulding polyline, there's a checkbox you can use to deselect the molding from certain wall segments (i.e., those where you won't have the stone.  The alternative to using the exterior moulding PL is to just draw a line for the wall segments where the stone will be and convert it to a moulding PL ... but there are some downsides to going this route which I believe you can read about in the manual.

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I would recommend you use one of Chief's existing wall types, make a copy and rename it as desired and then change the exterior material to your stone material.  If it is a manufactured stone product, go to the manufacturer's website and find what the thickness should be (I am guessing ±2").  Make sure your lower pony wall layers match exactly how the stone manufacturer specifies their stone to be used. 

 

You can fix that corner by using the Edit Wall Layer Intersection tool in the edit tool bar once you select your wall(s).  To learn more about that tool, go to Help (F1) and see how it can be used.

Curt, I tried this with a 3 inch concrete default pony wall the changed to stone same issue and the connect walls tool did not work for me. What gives? I can't understand why a standard stone veneer pony wall is this difficult to create. If I wanted brick no prob? My plan is above if you or anyone wants to try it I'd greatly appreciate it

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Hi Para.

 

you need to setup your wall definitions just like they are really Built , your ponywall is only a 4" stone material , ie you are missing the drywall,2x6 stud, building paper , AirGap  , and I'd think the Cultured stone would be about 2" not 4" thick. You may also need to alter the Platform and Foundation lines in the Wall Def. to make the Cross Section look right.

 

However , I fixed it in the attached plan and added the Cap Greg kindly provided as well  on one section to get you started....

 

Also your "flicker Issue" was not Z-Fighting on the Garage Door's it was because you have turned off the Interior Casing , which also causes issues with the Jamb , even though it is still spec'd to be there , one I fixed the other I didn't so you can look at it.

 

I saved the camera view in plan so you can see how I was looking at things to adjust them.

 

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ParaFlex_Test_MH.plan

 

 

 

 

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Mick:

 

I don't believe that the stone finish he's looking at requires an air gap like you see typically used with brick veneer.

 

Terry:

 

Not sure what to say about editing your corners ... I was talking about the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool, not the Connect Walls tool.  These are not the same tools.

 

As Mick (and I) have suggested, once you make your wall type definitions match the way the "walls will actually be built", I think you will have much better luck with your walls.  I think you just need more time practicing with the tools and studying how the program works.  Good luck.

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You are right Curt , I don't really know what Para. wanted , if it is Cultured Stone it is likely set on extruded metal Lathe nailed to the Sheathing, the Plan was just so he could see how it should look etc , and give him an example of how the Cap Greg supplies works. I actually returned the Stone 1' around the Corner too as that is how I see it done a lot , though it always looks like you "Cheaped Out" doing things like that especially if you can see that Garage Wall from the Street.

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Ok thanks for the help I'll try it when I get home from work. Yes Curt I need more hours and I'll eventually get fluent. I wish I could spend more time on Chief, CATIA is getting most of my time these days since it pays more. :) Other than what I am inadvertently leaving out of Chief, my design-build methods are non-mainstream.

 

Nice singing gents, you all should start a Barbara shop quartet,  add some pony walls to your gigs :)

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"Also your "flicker Issue" was not Z-Fighting on the Garage Door's it was because you have turned off the Interior Casing , which also causes issues with the Jamb , even though it is still spec'd to be there , one I fixed the other I didn't so you can look at it. "

 

Just forgot to post the settings pic for your Flicker issue on the garage Door Terry , garage Door don't normally have it so I know why you turned it off but it seems CA in recent versions has an issue with showing the Jamb if the Interior casing is turned off or set to zero  , setting to 1/16th x 1/16" and all is good , you might wan to mention it to TS , so they can fix the issue. 

 

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