Is There A Way To Trim/extend P/solids In Elevation View?

[Kbird1]

just watched your last video , looks like you had basically the same idea from Glenn's post and you are right you have do do work around the windows and Doors , as CA automatically adds doubles at all openings and the headers but depending on the view you could build framing with headers set at 0" depth ,so you only need to delete the odd double at each opening. For Cross sections you would need to build framing again with headers set back to default depth. 

 

I also found I had to set my Casing just a tad thicker to get it to work right , eg 1 5/8 thick as my board and batt = 1 1/2" then there was no "z-fighting"

 

 

 

edit: here is the Plan too Larry

Cedar Batten Plan1.plan

[glennw]

Larry,

 

Thanks for doing the vids - saved me a bit of work.

Looks like you have got it figured out.

I remember posting this technique for board and batt way back - I'll see if I can find it.

 

One thing that you did miss though, when doing the gable infill wall thingy.

You don't have to frame the walls for the whole model at the one time. 

You can set up all your options under default wall framing for the batten wall.

Select the batten wall and then the Build Framing For Selected Objects on the Edit toolbar. 

Check Retain Wall Framing for that wall.

 

You can then go back to the wall framing defaults, change any options and then build the framing for the rest of the house.

 

 

PS Here is a link to an older thread about a year ago where I suggested this technique.

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/137-board-and-batten-siding-texture/page-2?hl=board

[HumbleChief]

...Select the batten wall and then the Build Framing For Selected Objects on the Edit toolbar. 

...did you know that that option isn't available for an attic wall?

[Kbird1]

Larry,

 

One thing that you did miss though, when doing the gable infill wall thingy.

You don't have to frame the walls for the whole model at the one time. 

You can set up all your options under default wall framing for the batten wall.

Select the batten wall and then the Build Framing For Selected Objects on the Edit toolbar. 

Check Retain Wall Framing for that wall.

 

You can then go back to the wall framing defaults, change any options and then build the framing for the rest of the house.

 

 

PS Here is a link to an older thread about a year ago where I suggested this technique.

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/137-board-and-batten-siding-texture/page-2?hl=board

 Thanks Glenn , wasn't aware of that Tip , That thread is my old one on B&B , but this works nicer than my old files there ,with the true 3D bit more work around Doors and Windows though.

 

Not sure if it is a difference in your method  Larry (separate wall) vs using my Batten Material posted above , but you do get the Framing option on the edit Toolbar with my Material as it part of the Wall.

 

*** just had a thought  since your method uses a separate wall you are clicking on the separate wall right ? not the main wall

[HumbleChief]

Not sure if it is a difference in your method  Larry (separate wall) vs using my Batten Material posted above , but you do get the Framing option on the edit Toolbar with my Material as it part of the Wall.

 

*** just had a thought  since your method uses a separate wall you are clicking on the separate wall right ? not the main wall

The one method uses an attic wall and the "Build Framing For Selected Objects" option is not available for attic walls. No big deal - just sayin'.

[Kbird1]

Hi Larry, I was just messing around with Glenn's tip on rebuilding/retaining the framing and it doesn't work with my materials it seems

 

I also found that if you have Retain Wall Framing Checked in the Wall DBX   you don't get the Icon on the Edit toolbar , but you can still rebuild via the Build >Framing Menu . Not sure if the missing Build framing icon  is cos of the retain framing setting in your case. 

 

I also noticed in your Video in the tips forum , you have no sheathing layer on your walls ,though I'm not sure if that is effecting anything.

[glennw]

...did you know that that option isn't available for an attic wall?

 

Larry,

Works for me with attic walls.

As per Micks answer, it is probably because of the Retain Wall Framing setting - not because it's an attic wall.

 

I also found that if you have Retain Wall Framing Checked in the Wall DBX   you don't get the Icon on the Edit toolbar , but you can still rebuild via the Build >Framing Menu . Not sure if the missing Build framing icon  is cos of the retain framing setting in your case.

 

 

You can uncheck Retain Wall Framing and then the icon will appear on the Edit toolbar.

[DRAWZILLA]

I also noticed in your Video in the tips forum , you have no sheathing layer on your walls ,though I'm not sure if that is effecting anything.

 

Most of the time we don't sheath everything except for earthquake stuff. I also have no walls with sheathing out here. Mostly stucco also.

[HumbleChief]

Larry,

Works for me with attic walls.

As per Micks answer, it is probably because of the Retain Wall Framing setting - not because it's an attic wall.

 

 

You can uncheck Retain Wall Framing and then the icon will appear on the Edit toolbar.

Cool Thanks

[Kbird1]

Most of the time we don't sheath everything except for earthquake stuff. I also have no walls with sheathing out here. Mostly stucco also.

 

So only shear walls ?  ,  here they are usually 3/4 ply , but ALL exterior walls here get 1/2 ply  (or OSB if going cheap)

 

M.

[dshall]

So only shear walls ?  ,  here they are usually 3/4 ply , but ALL exterior walls here get 1/2 ply  (or OSB if going cheap)

 

M.

Out here we sheathe the entire house with ply.  Gives a smoother surface to apply the exterior finish.

[DRAWZILLA]

Scott, even on stucco walls? We usually never sheath the whole house The stucco is easy to flair the extra stucco to look ok. Siding is another story , in that case they will usually fir out the remainder of the wall to match the thickness of the shear wall. And we never use vinyl siding strictly for that reason, too flimsy. Hardiplank siding will span 16" without the need for backing. But sometimes it make more since to just go ahead and sheath the remainder of the wall where shear walls are applied. But never the whole house.

[Gawdzira]

Continuous sheathing also makes the wall thickness consistent for window and door frame/casing build out

[dshall]

Continuous sheathing also makes the wall thickness consistent for window and door frame/casing build out

That is what I would think.  I don't care what the builder does,  I just notice they put  ply on all wall for the reason Mumbles states above.

 

Yes Perry,  ply on all walls for the reason  Mumbles states,  but I do not care,  as long as they give me the required ply length.

[DRAWZILLA]

Alan

With nail on windows it doesn't matter, I could see your point if everything was custom, probably what you do in Carmel. Most of the homes I deal with for additions are tract homes, built cheaply . Those homes also have no interior casings, just drywall finished. When I'm doing custom it's a different story. My contractor  clients would fire me if I sheathed the whole job.

[Bill_Emery]

Here in Western Oregon (seismic zones D1, and D2) continuous sheathing is the most practical way to achieve wall bracing requirements using the prescriptive method. Almost every home is continuously sheathed.  I will occasionally use segmented bracing when I can use it to my advantage.

[DRAWZILLA]

Here we really can't do any prescriptive methods, everything I do is engineered by a structural engineer with Calc's and site visits