Deck/Roof over a Living Space, Best Method?

[tundra_dweller]

I'm working on an as-built for a cabin that has a 22'x24' deck built on a flat roof over a living room. Before I start on the 2nd floor I'm wondering what the best way to model this "room" is. It's been a while since I've done one of these. I'm hoping I can just build the room with railings, set the room type as whatever with no roof over, set my floor framing to the right depth, and change the flooring to decking.

If I remember right, setting the room type to deck doesn't work very well in these situations. The addition won't be attached to this deck so I don't care if the roofing is included or the framing spot on, I just want it to look close on elevation views/renderings. I will probably just use a molding to model the soffits/fascia under the deck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SHCanada2]

i think it is a balcony? room type in CA.

 

I'm just about to start one of these over top a detached garage. I think the only large problem is modelling the slope of the floor. Which I think I will choose to ignored

[VHampton]

First... don't designate it as a deck. That's going to result in some hiccups. 

 

Balcony is the way to go... w/ no roof above. 

Change the floor surface to whitewashed wood deck (or whatever material you might be using).

 

Drop the floor elevation so that the EPDM, wood sleepers and wood deck stay comfortably below the door sill. 

[tundra_dweller]

Okay balcony it is, thanks guys! I probably won't worry about the roof slope either. I'll try and remember to report back on how it worked out.

[scottharris]

There's a sample plan on the website than may help.

 

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/samples.html

 

[tundra_dweller]

Thanks Scott, I'll check it out!

[Doug_N]

You can also just name any room you like, turn the walls into railings, specify no ceiling and roof, and adjust the floor structure to suit your construction, and if you have pony walls you can make parapets with railings.  There are lots of ways to tackle this type of project.

[VHampton]

100 percent Doug.

On the 2nd floor, "rooms" are always the way to go vs. "decks" even if that may seem counterintuitive. 

Balcony can still be the preferred method because that particular designation prevents Living Space from getting thrown off.

...unless the user know enough to check the "exclude from living area" option.  

[robdyck]

Hey Brett. Balcony is definitely the right room type. Here's a few other tips to consider:

• For the floor structure, let's assume that the room below will have a flat and level ceiling. So think about how you'd like to frame this floor in advance. Do you want to rip a tapered joist to provide the slope? Maybe you'd prefer to 'sister' a level ceiling joist beside a sloped floor / roof joist. Either way, the Balcony floor structure is often best defined using the lowest TOP point of floor framing for the structure. The Floor structure depth would be this elevation, minus the ceiling elevation below.
• In some instances you can use a roof plane to model and frame the floor. Experiment with unchecking Floor Under This Room for the balcony. You may not need these extra surfaces although you still want the Balcony room elevations as accurate as possible. The roof plane method can be helpful if you have an overhang and exterior soffits.
• You may also be able to also use a ramp to help model sloped railing and / or the sloped portion of the floor framing (instead of using a roof plane). You can add the railing to the ramp itself, or use a railing wall set to Follow Stairs.
• The ramp method and the roof plane method can be combined...it doesn't have to be one or the other.

Each method has pros and cons and with a little experimentation you'll find what works best for your scenario. 

 

For this project I used a ramp to provide the slope, a custom countertop for the overhanging eaves and fascia (because a countertop can have moldings added) , and a manual molding line to continue the gutter across the front. The side stub walls are level on top and I added the wall cap in the wall dbx and adjusted the top elevation manually.

Edited 6 hours ago by robdyck

[tundra_dweller]

Great info, thanks Robert!

[SHCanada2]

if you do use a roof plane, it does have the advantage of showing sloped trusses, if you are going that way. I did this last year and thought it was pretty straightforward, but the truss manufacturer completely missed the 0.5:12 roof slope (it was a partial rooftop deck), and joists had to be sistered to the truss

Edited 4 hours ago by SHCanada2

[tundra_dweller]

Thanks all for the assistance, the balcony room worked good! I'm not going to worry about the slope, this is the existing condition and the new addition will be farther back under the shed dormer area.

 

 

[SHCanada2]

that does look good...in under a day

[tundra_dweller]

I had the 1st floor done yesterday, and I didn't have to fight the software as much as I figured I would on the 2nd floor with the deck, gambrel roof, and shed dormers. It went surprisingly smooth.