Roof And Ceiling Battens, Please.

[IanPellant]

This is an old topic that has been raised and ignored over the past 8 years or so on Chief Talk.... Apologies if it may be considered a "suggestion" topic.

 

in Australia and New Zealand it is common for roofs to be constructed with timber trusses, typically spaced at 900mm centres (say 3 feet). The trusses are then battened on the top chord to support metal sheet roofing. Battens are also fixed under the bottom truss chord to support the ceiling linings.

 

Chief Architect does not do battens (sometimes called lath in the US)

 

There is no adequate paradigm in CA for implementing roofing battens. We can provide the space for battens by specifying a "sheathing layer" for the batten depth, but cannot readily model the individual battens using any manual framing tool. The battens need to be angled to the roof pitch and be trimmed to hip roofs.

 

Ceiling battens can be manually modelled using generic framing. The space for the battens needs to be specified in the ceiling layers; not in the ceiling structure.

 

It would be nice to have an auto-framing batten tool set... but like Trusses, a manual tool would be acceptable.

 

Has anyone found a good paradigm for modelling the roof battens on a hipped roof? Ideally they need to be framing members that can be accounted in the Material Lists.

 

Cheers,

Ian

 

 

[KirkClemons]

You can go into the truss detail view and cut these out of the truss using the break line tool.

I created this truss by using the break line tool to cut out a small block then used align/distribute along line to copy and distribute it down the truss.

[NRST8TRKR]

In our area these are refered to as purlins and are used to attach metal roofing.

What I do is ajust the roof blocking used to tie the fly rafter to the trusses to the space I want the purlin and raise it in the dbx to ajust it to sit on the rafter then drag it the length of the building.

I would think a similar method could be used to get the desired nailers under the truss system.

 

Hope this is of some help. Have a great week,Ken

[dshall]

You can go into the truss detail view and cut these out of the truss using the break line tool.

I created this truss by using the break line tool to cut out a small block then used align/distribute along line to copy and distribute it down the truss.

I wonder how you get the ply to show.  I  suppose the trusses were defined by a roof plane.  

 

Here is a posible alternate solution.  Build the roof,  build the  trusses,  lock the trusses,  move the roof plane up 1-1/2",  space the rafters at 2000' oc  and then manually build rafters/nailers/purlins perpendicular to the trusses........  easy for a simple roof,  much tougher for a compiicated roof.  

 

There must be a way to get the rafters/nailers/purlins to build auto.  How about putting the roof base line at the same angle as the roof pitch but of course perpendicular.  This way the purlins should build auto.

 

So it seems to me we need (2) roof planes,  

 

1st to define the rafters/trusses

2nd to define the purlin/nailers,  this plane will give us the roof ply. 

[DRAWZILLA]

Some people use the lookouts as the roof plank sheathing but you have to do it manually.

[Kiwideziner]

Perry

That option is OK for rafters but as we seem to have to manually build trusses we have no lookouts. or am I missing something.

I normally just draw in cross boxes in the cross sections, but this can be tedious if you have several.

 

Scott

the purlins run across the trusses/rafters so another roof plane does not work, we dont use a ply liner. As Ian mentioned in OP we can have a space for the purlins by making the sheathing layer 45mm thick.

[DRAWZILLA]

Trusses have lookouts around here, you just use a reduced gable truss to do it.

[Kiwideziner]

Perry that is correct.

But unl4ess you use auto build you dont have the lookouts without a whole heap of stuffing around manually. I have not found a way to auto build trusses, an I missing something??

[dshall]

Perry

That option is OK for rafters but as we seem to have to manually build trusses we have no lookouts. or am I missing something.

I normally just draw in cross boxes in the cross sections, but this can be tedious if you have several.

I THINK YOU ARE MISSING SOMETHING,  I AUTO GET PURLINS FROM GABLE END BACK TO FIRST TRUSS,  IN FACT I HAVE TURNED THIS FEATURE OF FOR SOME REASON....  I THINK I TURNED IT OFF BECAUSE IT CLUTTERED UP DRAWING

Scott

the purlins run across the trusses/rafters so another roof plane does not work, we dont use a ply liner. As Ian mentioned in OP we can have a space for the purlins by making the sheathing layer 45mm thick.

YEP TRIED IT,  I FAILED MISERABLY.

You can get auto purlins/lookouts and then extend using the extend tool and fence tool.

[dshall]

Perry that is correct.

But unl4ess you use auto build you dont have the lookouts without a whole heap of stuffing around manually. I have not found a way to auto build trusses, an I missing something??

This is correct,  I was trying the auto build with my ANGLED BASELINE,  no go........  just wait.....  GW will prove me wrong.

[dshall]

Has anybody tried a roof plane with a zero pitch but the base line has an angle?  I don't know why,  but the rafters build parallel to the ground. I assumed the rafters would build differently.  

 

I have never used a PITCHED ROOF BASELINE.  Why and where would someone want to pitch the baseline,  and if you find a reason to build the pitched baseline,  wouldn't you want the rafters to build differently than they do?

[GeneDavis]

Pitch the roof baseline for some eyebrows

[KirkClemons]

In my example I simply drew a truss into an existing roof. So the truss was generated by the roof as Scott had hinted.

This means modifying the truss directly affects how the roof interacts. In my example the roof had raised to fit the new purliin/battens without me needing to do any additional leg work.

[Kiwideziner]

Scott

I was missing something, If you manually build all trusses, including adjust for dropped end gable trusses, then auto build framing you get the lookouts. I was manually fudging them.

But as OP requested you cant get purlins. If use use blocking and manually adjust height you dont get full lenght purlis but get short pieces between trusses.

[Kiwideziner]

I have attached hopefully a view of what i get

[DRAWZILLA]

Has anybody tried a roof plane with a zero pitch but the base line has an angle?  I don't know why,  but the rafters build parallel to the ground. I assumed the rafters would build differently.  

 

I have never used a PITCHED ROOF BASELINE.  Why and where would someone want to pitch the baseline,  and if you find a reason to build the pitched baseline,  wouldn't you want the rafters to build differently than they do?

Yes you have, you did a whole series of video's on it. Forgot the name but it was some crazy roof lines, like sloped ridge's.

[DRAWZILLA]

Perry that is correct.

But unl4ess you use auto build you dont have the lookouts without a whole heap of stuffing around manually. I have not found a way to auto build trusses, an I missing something??

Sorry, I must not understand what you are looking for.

[NRST8TRKR]

As I related in my first post.

 

Have a great week,Ken

 

[dshall]

As I related in my first post.

 

Have a great week,Ken

You say that you are using roof blocking,  but it was my experience that the roof blocking would be discontinuous at each truss or rafter.  I am assuming that is the issue Graehe was having.

 

Are you using roof blocking and if so,  why does your roof blocking remain continuous without a break at each truss?

[NRST8TRKR]

Scott,

 

Not using roof blocking.

 

Using the Lookout to the fly rafters and raising them up 1 1/2". Only drawback is they have to be done individually and it is a slow process ,but I have done a couple metal buildings

 

and garages in this way 

                      Waitin for the snow to melt,Ken

[NRST8TRKR]

Sorry If I was misleading in my first post. It is the lookout to the fly rafter not blocking.You are correct in that the blocking would have a gap for each rafter.                                   You could use a single block for each run but you would still have to raisei it up the thickness of the material used for the purlin and extend it to the length of the roof.

              Ken

[dshall]

Of course, you do realize you can extend multiple lookouts by using the extend and fence tools, but yes, not auto.

Simple gable roofs easy, throw in some hips or an entire hip roof, and a lot more work.

[NRST8TRKR]

10-4 on the extend and fence tool. I was reffering to raising the lookout to the corect height one at a time.If there is a way to raise them all at once I would like that tip.Right on ,a real pain with a complicated roof line.

                   Ken

[dshall]

You can select them all and then raise all at one time. Don't know what layer they are on, but lock all layers except that one, group select and raise all at once. I assume you know all that.

I'm still thinking on this.......

[glennw]

Is this the sort of thing you are after?

 

I just spent a long time explaining how I did it.

The post was auto saving, but I lost everything when I went to More Reply Options to attach a pic.

 

Anyway...here is the pic and if anyone wants an explanation, I will type it again.