rlackore Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 I'm trying to figure out how to use CAs attic trusses - I'm only part way there. My problems I need to solve: The walls below (main layer and interior finish) build through the truss bottom chord to the underside of the truss top chord. The ceiling isn't flush to the underside of the top chord. I've tried messing with the room dbx options, ceilings, etc, but can't find a resolution. Any guidance is appreciated. AtticTruss.zip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshall Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 To fix the drywall, change the rafter depth for the roof plane to 5-1/2". To eliminate the framing, go up to level 2 and delete the wall. However, now you lose the ext wall finish. You must keep the wall to get the finish. If you insist on no framing, make a new wall type without the framing and without interior finish so you will still get exterior finish. I leave those walls there because out in the field they will build a square frame with ply on it for shear transfer.... to the framing is really kind of good to have there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidJPotter Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 I am not completely sure why this is a problem for you for the following reasons. That elevation view can be edited, line-wise on layout (using the edit layout tool) to appear however you want it to for CD's. Second you can take that elevation view and convert it to a CAD detail which you can then alter however you want as to appearance. No one is going to live in or build a virtual house other than you, its purpose is to communicate your design and nothing more, so it if can be altered to do that job your job as a drafts person is done. No one can tell at a glance in isometric view if the model is off an inch or two, so I would not bother with trying to make the virtual model a perfect duplicate of the house in the field if it can be edited to communicate your actual intentions and can certainly be done as is. DJP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebdesign Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 The ceiling isn't flush to the underside of the top chord Change the rafter size for the roof plane to match size of the top chord. same fof cl'g framing. That will clean up sections in those areas. The walls below (main layer and interior finish) build through the truss bottom chord to the underside of the truss top chord. Wall framing for the wall will only build to the clg hgt- truss bottom chord. The wall abv is an attic wall unless you have spec'd for the main wall to "balloon thru cl'g abv". If the roof eave soffit ends up abv the main wall top, the attic wall abv will fill that gap, but it will also frame, which you can manually remove the framing or use a wall type w/ no framing. I think DSH brought up this issue in "Suggestions". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlackore Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 To fix the drywall, change the rafter depth for the roof plane to 5-1/2". Got it. Seems like there should be some cross-talk between the roof framing dbx and the truss dbx. To eliminate the framing, go up to level 2 and delete the wall. However, now you lose the ext wall finish. You must keep the wall to get the finish. If you insist on no framing, make a new wall type without the framing and without interior finish so you will still get exterior finish. Okay, that works. I leave those walls there because out in the field they will build a square frame with ply on it for shear transfer.... to the framing is really kind of good to have there. That's not typical around here. Sheathing to the underside of the chord, yes, but not necessarily the framing between trusses. We usually detail shear transfer through the a combination of the wall sheathing, roof sheathing, blocking, and hurricane ties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlackore Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 I am not completely sure why this is a problem for you for the following reasons. That elevation view can be edited, line-wise on layout (using the edit layout tool) to appear however you want it to for CD's. Second you can take that elevation view and convert it to a CAD detail which you can then alter however you want as to appearance. No one is going to live in or build a virtual house other than you, its purpose is to communicate your design and nothing more, so it if can be altered to do that job your job as a drafts person is done. No one can tell at a glance in isometric view if the model is off an inch or two, so I would not bother with trying to make the virtual model a perfect duplicate of the house in the field if it can be edited to communicate your actual intentions and can certainly be done as is. DJP This program is attempting to be a BIM modeler. What, David, is the point of BIM if it's not going to be modeled accurately? If the model isn't accurate, then the BIM data will be wrong. And though I get what your saying, I just as often receive responses in this forum along the lines of "if you'd just take the time to model it correctly, then it will draw itself correctly." Regarding editing lines in layout (a point you have brought up to me before): sure, that can be done, but then you lose all your edits if you have to resend to layout. That is a fundamental problem with layout editing. If we have to manually edit everything, or make CAD details for something as basic as a building section, then CA is simply a 3D modeling program. And there are a hell of a lot better 3D modeling programs out there than CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LevisL Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 To eliminate the framing, go up to level 2 and delete the wall. However, now you lose the ext wall finish. You must keep the wall to get the finish. If you insist on no framing, make a new wall type without the framing and without interior finish so you will still get exterior finish. I leave those walls there because out in the field they will build a square frame with ply on it for shear transfer.... to the framing is really kind of good to have there. You could also create a new layerset for that section and turn off the attic walls layer. That way it will still show correctly in your 3D views. I made a similar change in my default template to have distinct elevation view and section view layersets, this being one of the reasons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbuttery Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Rob: I agree 100% all the manual work-arounds can be "troublesome" yes, EVERYTHING can be done manually but Chief is suppose to be better than that .... Lew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebdesign Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Even w/ that Levis, you will still see the wall framing of that attic wall....unless wall framing is not displayed in your section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 I see that wall framing turn up when I have Energy Heel Trusses too , which means the exterior wall ply and Finish must go upto the bottom of the top chord , not sure how many Framer's would actually build a wall there , it's more likely to be a solid block eg a 2x10" or 2x 12" depending on the Energy heel height. Looks like your Rafter depth is set different from the Truss top chord depth for the drywall issue? M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlackore Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 Looks like your Rafter depth is set different from the Truss top chord depth for the drywall issue? Yes, dshall set me straight on that account. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LevisL Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Even w/ that Levis, you will still see the wall framing of that attic wall....unless wall framing is not displayed in your section. Good point Jim. I usually don't have framing turned on, so this works for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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