tundra_dweller

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Everything posted by tundra_dweller

  1. I agree with everything Shane said, but if you want to recreate the window as spec'd by the supplier: 1. Change the frame size on your two windows to 35.5 x 61.5. 2. Using your temp dimensions (if set to pick up opening "sides") or some other method to set a 1/2" space between your two window frames. 3. Mull the two windows. 4. Open the mulled unit and make sure your rough opening settings are at 1/2" total width clearance and 1/2" total height clearance. It shouldn't matter whether you use the "Additional Space" or "Clearance Gap" method in the rough opening setting, just that the overall clearances are correct. Note: Your mulled units will not take on the rough opening settings from the windows you are mulling, for me they only seem to come in with a 1" clearance gap for width & height. If there's a default setting to change the R.O. setting for mulled units, I'm not finding it.
  2. This has been my experience as well, can be frustrating.
  3. Yep. In my experience in dealing with software (and most other companies for that matter) Chief has pretty much been the gold standard as far as responsiveness and respecting their customers.
  4. With all due respect sir, that's a pretty unfair statement to make about someone's craft & livelihood, presumably based on assumption. I have some frustrations with Chief just like all software but I've never gotten the impression that the people behind it are slacking or not putting the work in to try and improve the software, and I would bet it's quite the opposite situation than what you describe.
  5. For slab foundations I have a saved plan view set up specifically for the slab plumbing layout, separate from the foundation plan. It uses a reference display of the floor above with its own layer set and dimensions. The only dimensions I use for this saved plan view are the plumbing dimensions that I create on the floor above (floor 1). I started out turning cabinets off and using 2D cad blocks for sinks, but quickly realized I'd rather just have the base cabinets on than risk forgetting to update the 2D block locations if something gets moved. Sounds like Rich's solution above might be the better way to deal with sinks without having to show the base cabs.
  6. Yeah that's pretty slick. That callout view tool alone would be friggin amazing.
  7. Hi Shane, one thing you can do is go into your wall definition for that fence and change the material from fir framing to insulation air gap. It doesn't change the look of your fence since you are using panels with their own materials for the fence. I'm not sure why Chief does this kind of thing with walls and wall intersections.
  8. Very nice, thanks for sharing!
  9. This song actually lives in my liked music playlist after this original post was made, it's pretty groovy. Thanks Gawdzira!
  10. And I'm not sure how well it would work to create a copy of that layer for your new slab areas, it's a system layer and I'm not sure how the software would handle it, I'm guessing not very well. Maybe the slab pour number would have some effect on how it works too. I'm curious to see how it works for you.
  11. Select your slab edge and take a look at the "Slabs" layer color.
  12. You nailed it, thank you! We have a cat that likes to jump up on my desk and walk on my keyboard when I'm working. I'm blaming it on him.
  13. Every so often I have a plan I'm working on where seemingly out of the blue when I go to move cabinets or fixtures around they will no longer bump up against walls or other cabinets/fixtures, they can be moved right through walls or each other. It's kind of annoying and I know there must be something I'm doing that causes this to happen. I'm not going to take the time to post the plan, just hoping someone out there might have some insight.
  14. Makes sense, I'm going to try live PBR views again and see how it goes. I've been spending way too much time updating images after changes, and those kind of views are the type that seem to generate more changes from clients.
  15. I haven't come across that request yet, but someone like these guys might be a good place to start. https://www.range-systems.com/home-range/
  16. I always do current screen as image for PC performance reasons, plus I try to keep the number of different cameras I have set up to a minimum. That being said I haven't tried live PBR views in layout for awhile, I'm curious to hear what others are doing as well.
  17. This is one of those common instances where it would be really nice if we could take over control of footings (and wall intersections in general) similar to auto-built then manually adjusted roof planes. Sometimes the edit wall layer intersection tool doesn't get the job done, then you have to resort to CAD mask polylines or manual slabs/solids with different line style and fill properties to get the job done for 2D presentation. Which is probably what I would do in this situation, a combination of slabs and CAD lines/CAD masks, depending on what you need for 2D & 3D presentation. Do not overlook the power of the white (or whatever color works for your situation) line with a higher line weight value than the line you're covering. Not ideal but it works.
  18. Michael, I think selecting for "Global Symbol Mapping" in the material definition pattern tab will get you there. Otherwise you can create a copy of the material by changing the scoping of the adjust material definition tool to anything but "Plan" mode and you should get a prompt to create a copy of the material that you can then adjust independently of the original material.
  19. @ElkRivers There are extra attic walls at the 2nd floor and also at the attic level that can be deleted and fixes the overhang problem.
  20. Another option would be to add your door to the wall, then select for retain wall framing in that wall's dbx, then remove the door. You'd have to manually add a piece of bottom plate and a stud or two in the opening if you really wanted your temporary framing to be accurate. But typically it's just a comment on the plan as Jason said.
  21. Nice work, thanks! This isn't required in my area but it's a good tool to have in the box for sure.
  22. I did a plan last year for a grain bin converted to an ADU, can confirm the walls of a circular structure have to be at least two separate wall segments. And the walls will want to break and the ends jump around the perimeter if you add openings and interior walls.
  23. You have to set up your foundation wall as the pony wall and your framed wall as the upper wall, preferably in the foundation defaults. After building your foundation, open up the room dialogue and set your foundation floor elevation as needed. Then open up all of your foundation walls and set the "Height off Floor" to determine how tall your concrete (pony) wall will be from whatever your foundation floor elevation is, the "Elevation of Lower Wall Top" number will be automatically figured depending on what your height off floor is. Your framed wall (upper wall) will then fill in between the top of your concrete wall and the bottom of your floor system. If you're really good you can nail everything in your foundation defaults, but I never can, it usually takes much trial and error for me to get it right. Sample plan attached so you can see how it can work. FOUNDATION PONY WALL.plan