tundra_dweller

Members
  • Posts

    185
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tundra_dweller

  1. You don't have flush eaves checked on these planes.
  2. Does checking one of these options in the wall spec dbx get you there?
  3. One thing you can try is going into your default settings for your active view and change the default angle of the text so any new text would come in at this angle. You would have to do this for regular and rich text if you use them both.
  4. The two posts above are spot on. I spent a good amount of time yesterday not flipping but having to rotate buildings 90 deg. I used the edit area & transform-replicate tools. Most text and labels then have to be individually dealt with, and for object labels in many cases you have to uncheck "Auto Adjust Text Direction" in the label dialogue to get the labels to stay oriented how you want. But yes, save a copy of the plan first and be ready to use ctrl-z to get back to square one if things go haywire.
  5. I don't see a simple way to do it with win10 or win11, which is kind of silly, but this might be worth a shot? https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/set-the-mouse-scroll-direction-to-reverse-natural/ede4ccc4-3846-4184-a86d-a028515040c0 For what it's worth, I use a Logitech g604 mouse and you can use the Logitech pc app to change the scroll direction and customize the buttons pretty easily.
  6. Yes indeed. What we used to do before the bigfoot type forms were common was to auger 24" holes, pour a 12" thick pad at the bottom of each hole first (embedding rebar in the pad and leaving 4' or so of vertical rebar dowels exposed so they fit within the sono tube as needed, then come back and place our 12" sono tubes on the pad, backfill and pour the sono tubes. The bigfoot forms cut out that entire step of pouring the separate pad footing first. Here in hard frost country we have to have the bottoms of our footings at least 60" below grade, and the wider pad footing not only distributes loads to avoid settling of the footings, but it also "locks" the bottom of the footing in place to help avoid freeze/thaw cycles moving the entire assembly up & down. Although we've still seen them move in poor soils. Definitely don't want to be pouring just a tube form without a wider element at the bottom.
  7. I'm going to make some wild guesses here, but I would say the posts are not centered under the beam and probably offset towards the house and notched to accept the beam some distance that would allow for the box framing & stone veneer to come out near flush to the edge of the beam. For the footings, I would imagine you could use a standard 12" sonotube footing and keep the top of the tube form 4-6" below grade, then form out a square or round to whatever size you need at the top 4-6" of depth, kind of like a reverse bell footing. Run your normal rebar cage in the sonotube and tie in some horizontal rebar in the top of your box form, and pour all at once.
  8. Nice option! I'm usually starting with one of the P4-5 or P4-6 direct glaze windows from the Marvin catalog and going through all the gyrations to calculate the side lengths. It's not too bad if you're able to use nice round numbers for the width, height, & spacing. I've never considered or had any clue that the tudor arch method would work to create polygon windows.
  9. I've run into this before but I can't remember exactly what the solution was. Do you have lintels on any of the windows before you mull them? If so try without the lintels. I've found that with these types of window configurations it's sometimes easier and more accurate to turn off exterior casings, go to elevation view and get a cad detail from view, draw a polyline around the perimeter of the ganged window frames, offset the line for whatever reveal you want, copy>paste/hold position the p-line to your elevation view, then convert the p-line to a molding polyline to create your casing. It would be really nice if we had control for each individual side of casings per window. On or off, different widths and thicknesses.
  10. @dcook627 I assume you've probably already seen the plan source your image came from in order to look at the other elevation and plan views , but if not here is a link. https://www.houseplans.com/plan/3086-square-feet-4-bedroom-3-5-bathroom-3-garage-farmhouse-country-southern-sp261191
  11. You could try using one of the Nanawall products or Marvin Ultimate bifold glass doors from the manufacturer library to create something like this.
  12. Jim - try checking the "'details" box in the reference view dbx.
  13. This is generally how I have learned to do it too, but I haven't figured out the best way to manage all the different wall types. Do you usually just leave those kind of oddball wall types that are mostly specific to each project in their plan file, or add them to the user library? Carrying everything forward in a template plan would get pretty unruly I would think. And yes, this place wouldn't be the resource it is without old school users.
  14. Jim, that is correct. If you need different offsets for different walls/areas you would have to create copies of the material as needed. It would be handy if you could adjust material offsets on a wall by wall basis, or if the materials themselves were "smart" and would know to set the origin of the patterns at logical points such as the tops of footings, corners, etc.,. I can imagine someday we'll have an AI assistant to take care of that kind of stuff.
  15. Here's a couple good map resources that someone else posted on here a while back. https://snazzymaps.com/style/130173/ccr-black-and-white https://www.openstreetmap.org/search?query=tortolita mountain circle#map=15/32.4485/-110.9757
  16. Thanks Rene, I figured it involved that kind of a process. Much appreciated.
  17. Referring to the door closer included in the Bonus Catalog->Door Hardware No.3->Commercial. I can't figure out how these are supposed to be used in Chief, I've tried adding it to the different hardware options in the door dbx and that doesn't do anything that makes any sense. I've tried adding the object directly from the catalog and it just wants to place it along the plane of the wall the door is in. Does anyone have a method for actually placing a door closer on a door and having it be associated with the door on a schedule? I don't really care about seeing it in 3D views or even in plan view. I have a project with a variety of different hardware configurations on commercial doors, and I will probably just end up adding a note in comments or a custom field in the schedule at this point for the closers, but I was hoping I'm missing something totally obvious.
  18. Tea Time probably nailed it (and so fast that their tea is obviously caffeinated), but I'm wondering if changing the lower wall type to be a partition wall would work as well? Cleaner wall intersections (both plan view and 3D) are one of my most wished for Chief improvements, but I'm assuming there's some hard coding limitations involved.
  19. If you're using the "rainbow" tool to adjust your material definition make sure you have the scoping set to plan level. If you have it set to a lower level of scoping (component, object, etc.,) then you will most likely be prompted to make a copy of the material.
  20. X15 introduced the heel height value setting for roof trusses, so you have to take that into account when setting up or editing your trussed roofs. Have a look at that section in the help files. The baseline height is your top plate height + the vertical structure depth (plus or minus any additional height needed to reach your heel height setting, if any). The vertical structure depth change depending on the roof pitch, so a 2x4 at 3/12 has a lower value than a 2x4 at 7/12 so you have to take that into account when manually editing different pitched roof planes. So in your first X15 example above, you would want to hit the radio button to lock either the top plate height or the pitch, and then enter the correct value in for the baseline height (109 1/8 + 4 3/8) and this should give you what your looking for. In your second X15 example, you would lock the pitch and then enter in a value of 112 3/4" (top plate height + vertical structure depth) in for the baseline height, and this should give you what you want. If this doesn't work, then I would guess that your roof baseline polylines are not lined up over the outboard edge of your wall main layer.
  21. Try this in that wall's dbx if you want to keep the wall below the roofline. Try this if you want the bottom of that wall cut off at the roofline.