tundra_dweller

If you have more than one window schedule for whatever reason, you could be seeing the label from the other schedule overlaying the label you want to see. If you post the plan someone could probably figure it out in quick time.

@winterdd You can also use the "delete surface" tool to temporarily delete drywall, sheathing, etc. surfaces to get down to the framing and investigate what it's picking up on, this also can make it easier to drag & snap your dimensions to what you want them to pick up. Then press F12 to regenerate your deleted surfaces. I suppose switching the layer set to 3D framing would kind of do the same thing but I haven't tried that.

After trying it out, you are correct. Which makes sense because it could be chaos for things like exterior masonry and siding if the patterns reset at every break. It would be cool if wall material regions gave an option for global texture/pattern following or an offset distance but that doesn't sound very feasible.

If I had to guess I would say it's picking up both the top of the door and the top of the rough opening and calling them both headers for some reason. Things like this are why I've started using construction lines for story pole elevations and putting an elevation marker on the end of them (it would be nice if elevation markers were an option for the ends of construction lines). This way I can put the story pole lines exactly where they should go and they stay there, plus you can leave them in your plan template and adjust them as needed for different plans. Takes a little longer initially to set up but saves time and frustration overall.

I think if you break the exterior wall at the point where the interior wall intersects it would do what you want, I could be wrong though.

I'll check it out, thanks guys.

Does anyone know of any good resources (books, courses, youtubes) for learning more about best design practices for keeping the trades in mind while designing residential homes? I'm not looking to try and be a mechanical engineer, just to gain some more knowledge on HVAC duct sizing & layout, and plumbing DWV requirements. I can only gain so much trying to read codebooks before my brain gives up and tunes out.

Thanks for sharing, looks like it will come in real handy!

In addition to Gene's post (which I would bet is most likely going to solve your problem) make sure to check what elevation your roof beam is coming in at. It might be building in-plane with the rafters like a ridge board, where it might not be visible from the inside camera views, or it may come in under the rafters where it should be visible if the roof beam layer is turned on.

Thanks!

I run into this type of issue pretty often when I want the porch ceiling elevation to be different than the main floor ceiling. It can have an effect on the main floor ext wall plate heights & truss envelope where the porch (typically shorter) ceiling meets the main level. There's probably a way around this that I don't know about but I haven't found it yet.

Seems like I always run into these same type of dormer problems Gene is having, especially with mixed wall types & room definitions.

Sorry Mick, I didn't notice that Gene had tagged you in his last post. I was just looking for a puzzle to help clear the monday morning brain fog.

@GeneDavis see if this takes care of the dormer wall issues. On the right side I moved the exterior wall that was at the attic level down to the 2nd floor. On the left side I turned the roof cuts wall at bottom option off and adjusted the roof plane to the outside of that wall. Glenrock clone.zip

I was originally on the fence about yet another monthly subscription, but the tips & tricks and the occasional downloadable "gadgets" from one of the top advanced users out there are well worth it.

Doesn't Substance Player make it easier in these kinds of situations to create your own tile materials? I've only used the wood builder part of it to create wood paneling and it works pretty well for that, but I don't know how well it works for custom tile textures.

Sounds good. I guess we both learned a little more about Chief today, I think?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KSdT7TbF8WNuloPLfuzspNhmGRjxlV9h/view?usp=sharing I think it has to do with however that original wall was created or copied being the problem. I created a new wall from scratch, 1 layer of brick 8" thick and it works fine. Something about that original wall was causing a 12" offset down, you can see the 4" concrete core doing the same thing in those last pics I posted. The wall in the edited plan attached doesn't do that.

My settings look the same as what you have now. I'll upload the edited plan for you to take a look in a minute.

Not sure about that. As soon as you change the upper pony wall type to any other wall type then the material stops extending down 12" into the foundation wall.

Glad to be of help Steve!

@stevenyhofHi Steve, this one really had me stumped but I think I figured it out. I opened up your wall type and changed the upper brick wall to a 4" concrete wall with a 2" brick exterior layer and a 2" brick interior layer. I then changed the wall to a "partition" so the brick material would show up on the exposed end. You'll notice when you move your brick from the main layer to one of the outer layers it takes on a 12" extension in the wall definition dbx. I set the extension to 0" and it seemed to do the trick. I think just having an all brick wall on one main layer was maybe the underlying problem. Maybe the brick layer was taking on a 12" extension from a previous wall type or it may have something to do the with the brick ledge depth being set to 12" and the wall only having one layer.

Pretty tough to tell what's going on there without the plan file, but I would consider drawing in manual ceiling planes under that roof to clean it up.

Looks like your sidelites are a little higher than your door so if you want to mull the transom to the bottom units you'll have to change something to make the sidelites have the same top elevation as the door. I don't remember if the rough opening plays into this, I think it's just the floor-to-top height for each unit that matters. Another thing you could try if you wanted a mulled look is to add a wall material region over that whole area with the edges beyond the openings to whatever width you want your trim to be. The doors and windows will cut the material region and in between them the material region should look like trim.

Try mulling the door & sidelites together first, then mull that assembly to the transom.