tundra_dweller

Sounds good. I guess we both learned a little more about Chief today, I think?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KSdT7TbF8WNuloPLfuzspNhmGRjxlV9h/view?usp=sharing I think it has to do with however that original wall was created or copied being the problem. I created a new wall from scratch, 1 layer of brick 8" thick and it works fine. Something about that original wall was causing a 12" offset down, you can see the 4" concrete core doing the same thing in those last pics I posted. The wall in the edited plan attached doesn't do that.

My settings look the same as what you have now. I'll upload the edited plan for you to take a look in a minute.

Not sure about that. As soon as you change the upper pony wall type to any other wall type then the material stops extending down 12" into the foundation wall.

Glad to be of help Steve!

@stevenyhofHi Steve, this one really had me stumped but I think I figured it out. I opened up your wall type and changed the upper brick wall to a 4" concrete wall with a 2" brick exterior layer and a 2" brick interior layer. I then changed the wall to a "partition" so the brick material would show up on the exposed end. You'll notice when you move your brick from the main layer to one of the outer layers it takes on a 12" extension in the wall definition dbx. I set the extension to 0" and it seemed to do the trick. I think just having an all brick wall on one main layer was maybe the underlying problem. Maybe the brick layer was taking on a 12" extension from a previous wall type or it may have something to do the with the brick ledge depth being set to 12" and the wall only having one layer.

Pretty tough to tell what's going on there without the plan file, but I would consider drawing in manual ceiling planes under that roof to clean it up.

Looks like your sidelites are a little higher than your door so if you want to mull the transom to the bottom units you'll have to change something to make the sidelites have the same top elevation as the door. I don't remember if the rough opening plays into this, I think it's just the floor-to-top height for each unit that matters. Another thing you could try if you wanted a mulled look is to add a wall material region over that whole area with the edges beyond the openings to whatever width you want your trim to be. The doors and windows will cut the material region and in between them the material region should look like trim.

Try mulling the door & sidelites together first, then mull that assembly to the transom.

I was using Chrome for viewing pdf's and always had the line problem with solid fills, I've recently switched over to Nitro PDF Pro and still get them. Granted I haven't spent much time messing around with settings to try and figure out a solution, I'll just keep ignoring it or using hatched fills when possible for now.

I get the same thing on a lot of darker solid fills. It's annoying but I also try to ignore them.

Good to hear this is being fixed, I've seen the same thing on a few X16 plan>layouts I've worked on, but I haven't been using an up-to-date layout template so I wasn't sure if it was software or just my setup.

The only time I've had unexpected wall material issues was user error, usually caused by using the material painter. If I had to bet I would say your drywall material got inadvertently sprayed with your siding material and the scoping for the material painter was set to plan or floor. It took me many years to quit using the material painter on walls and use the wall types or material regions to change up materials instead.

Nice workaround!

Gotcha. Take a look at the width and elevation of the concrete pony walls at floor 0. The 1" height above floor is causing that little lip.

Hi Doug, I got rid of that profile by going to floor 0 and unchecking pony walls for all the walls. @Doug_N

I had to check and make sure this works and it does. I used a frieze molding from the core catalog.

I'm totally guessing here, but if you are trying to put an angle on your fascia (for example a gable end not having plumb and square cut fascia) I would think you could create a molding profile that is triangle shaped, and sized according to your fascia size and how much of an angle you want on it, then apply that molding profile as a shadow board to whatever roof edges you want it on. I have never done or tried this, but I think it would work, with some trial and error.

I see there's more of an offset between the dimension # and the line in the X16 version. Seems to only affect the short dimensions, and only the vertically oriented string. Something definitely wonky there it seems, and if I had to guess it would have to do with new dimension leader lines, as Doug kind of alluded to. Good catch.

Good deal. For future reference I'm pretty sure it is possible to make triangle windows using the shape tab in the window dbx and adjusting the individual corner heights & offsets too. I think the overlapping casing might fix itself if you mull the windows together.

If you have the Marvin window catalog downloaded in Chief there are triangle windows in there if you search for P3-1 & P3-2. You should be able to adjust the width & height to match your pitch, or the match roof function might work too. @winterdd

Interesting...definitely keeping my eye on this.

Or if you really really don't want to add a 2nd floor and the vertical stacking option doesn't do it for you, you could save a copy of the plan and remove the upper windows and use that 1st floor plan on your layout when you're all done. Not a great solution though.

Yeah that's really the only way you can do it unless you can paste them in the attic level at the same absolute elevation. And that's if you have any attic walls, which you probably don't if you're balloon framing your walls.

Here's an example of something similar I'm working on right now. Here is the bottom row of windows on the main floor plan: Here are the upper two rows of windows on the upper level plan. They're the same width so you don't see that there's two levels of windows, but I separate the labels so the upper window labels are further away from the wall, this works for me. There's also an option in the window dbx where you can designate vertical stacking levels, which makes the upper windows a couple shades lighter on the floor plan, you could see what that does for you.