rlackore

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Everything posted by rlackore

  1. Post the plan.
  2. For 3D you can't beat Xfrog - if you have the budget. For 2D, you can't beat Photoshop and all the brushes that are available from third party vendors - if you have the budget. If you don't have the budget, The Gimp can replace Photoshop.
  3. I agree this looks like post work in something like Adobe Creative Suite - a combination of Photoshop and Illustrator.
  4. It looks like you've chosen a W6x12. Span is 18 feet. I estimate your tributaries are approximately 2 feet and 4 feet. Assuming L/240 deflection limit, grade A36 steel, a drywall ceiling and limited attic storage for a live/dead load of 20/5 psf, the steel you've chosen is adequate - midspan deflection is about 7/16 of an inch. End reactions are approx 1.5kip. You haven't mentioned a wind exposure category, but the chosen 4x6 post should be adequate for both the gravity and lateral loads. Of course, all of this is provisional and assumes there are no unknowns; to paraphrase Mr. Rumsfeld, there are things we know, things we don't know, things we know we don't know, and things we don't know we don't know yet. It's impossible to evaluate the connection without fully knowing the loads and the governing code. Frankly, the connection at the plate/sill/foundation is equally important (continuous load path) - this connection isn't just about gravity - it's also about resisting the lateral and uplift loads. I'd prefer to see a more direct connection from the beam to the column, eg steel plates welded to the beam flanges. If you go with your design, I'd suggest solid wood blocking to fill the entire web space to replace the two inside nuts on the threaded rod. As Larry mentioned, the 2x6s on either side of the post should be full-height kings studs, and lose the through-bolt at the studs/post and simply nail-laminate the kings to the post per the NDS. Get rid of the heavy steel angles and use a pair of Simpson H6s on each king to tie them to the wall top plates, and splice the top plates with some tension ties. Again, the bottom connection is equally important, otherwise everything you do at the top is for nothing.
  5. You can fudge it in layout. Cut two different sections, one for each step. Send both to layout. Drag the edges of the layout boxes so the stepped cuts are displayed properly, side-by-side. In plan, you'll have to manually draw a stepped polyline with callouts on the ends.
  6. The Jenn-Air site has SketchUp models available for all their products, including the Steam Oven. Just navigate to the product page and click on the CAD AND DESIGN FILES tab at the bottom.
  7. Please post the plan. Also, modify your forum signature to tell us what version of Chief you're running.
  8. Start a new plan, draw some walls and roofs to match your condition, build the framing, grab the valley rafter, copy and paste into your existing plan. Or do it all within your existing plan.
  9. Yes, I agree with Scott, the wall def Main Layers are part of the problem. You may notice that with X6 the default ICF wall defs have all three wall layers (insulation form, concrete, insulation form) defined as main layers. This provides the convenience of interior walls not framing through to the concrete core. So, wall defs and main layers need to be in the equation when you're cleaning up wall intersections.
  10. Alan probably has the best solution, but I've never used materials lists yet. So, if you want an alternate method: shoot elevations. Draw polyline polygons to define the wall area, and use the Object Specification dbx to check the enclosed areas of each polygon. Add them up.
  11. Cripes Scott, I can't get those results with the Edit Wall Layer tool. I believe the OP said pretty much the same. Did you adjust the wall defs at all?
  12. I believe this is a problem with wall main layer definitions. I don't have a solution yet.
  13. Professor, you are clearly an old AutoCAD user, with your talk of paper space and model space. I am very often victim to what Perry mentions - I forget that in CA I don't have to terminate a "hotkey" command with Enter or Spacebar. This results in lots of "weird" behavior, when CA and my AutoCAD brain are out of sync. Just a notion - not saying it's your actual problem.
  14. I don't know why, but maybe you can fix it easily by setting a deeper bottom margin?
  15. Yep - love that functionality. And AutoCAD isn't the only program I've used that uses more robust, user-friendly Undo operations; I use one at home that gives a pop-up box detailing the operation to Undo when I hover the mouse over the Undo icon.
  16. See the dashed line in plan view? That's the outside edge of the finish fascia. Pull the roof plane out the depth of the finish fascia, and I'll bet the elevation is fixed.
  17. To fix the wall problem, go to the 2nd floor plan view, select the two intersecting CMU walls at the corner, open the wall dbx, and uncheck "balloon through ceiling above".
  18. Rods can be made in plan with BUILD>PRIMITIVE>CYLINDER. Assign a height, position in plan, then shoot an elevation and rotate.
  19. Nice, Jim. Now I remember why I've held on to my 30-60-90 triangles for all these years.
  20. Decks should be slope-able. Slabs also. Even odd shapes should be slope-able. If CA can figure out roof intersections at an angle, it can figure out sloped decks and slabs that intersect at an angle.
  21. Remember when printing meant rolling the diazo exposure into a cardboard tube and splashing in a little ammonia - then waiting ten minutes?
  22. Yes, you did. My brain didn't read it that way the first time - I can't explain why.
  23. I thought that was very interesting, so I took another look (and considering the file size, something had to be there). All the linework was in paper space, not model space, so Chief probably didn't know what to do with the file. Anyway, see attached: new block.zip
  24. Like Tommy said. The only thing I have to add is that to create a molding polyline quickly, select the exterior room and Make Room Molding Polyline.