JiAngelo

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About JiAngelo

  • Birthday 01/23/1961

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    Galena, Ohio

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  1. I have this issue when creating PDFs in other programs as well. Settled on having Acrobat compress the files after they are created. Typically a 30MB file will reduce to 3-7MB's If you don't own acrobat, here are two online resources that you can drop your PDF into and it will return you a compressed file for free. https://www.adobe.com/acrobat/online/compress-pdf.htm https://smallpdf.com/compress-pdf
  2. In Ohio several county auditors provide this data for download. In our home county they have parcel data and gis data in separate files. We can download both and import them to give us the topography and lot lines. I searched Austin Texas and found you can download DWG files of the data at https://austintexas.app.box.com/s/nu5ju1ni2vz0oonm67f014xqdwip526k/folder/42061586880 Here's the main website https://www.austintexas.gov/department/gis-data It includes some arcgis links which we also find useful. Hope this helps.
  3. This is how I typically do this. Draw a molding line in plan view where you want the 1"x10" to be. Open dialog and change it's width to 10" and raise its elevation to say 10' initially. Switch to camera view, select the molding then raise/lower as needed to get it where you want it to be.
  4. Not sure I'm understanding correctly. What do you want to be seen between 12" and 56.25"?
  5. You can right clicked on a room, created a room polyline, place it on its own layer and add a grid fill specifying the grid size (2'x4' for example) then specify a vertical/horizontal offset to center the grid on the room. For multiple rooms I generally just expand the first room polyline to cover everything. You can add blocks or text for lighting and/or hvac layouts on the same layer or choose a different layer, then these layers can be turned on/off to display at will.
  6. @CheifTexan, can you generate a .dxf or a .csv of points only? Your files only have 2D line data, no elevation data, just boundaries. On their website, https://www.moasure.com/pages/moasure-3d - I downloaded their DXF example, but it also is only 2D, no 3D data. I downloaded their CSV, but had to open it in excel, save it as a "space delimited .prn" format, due to a "line 2" error in the "comma delimited .csv" format, then used "Import Terrain Data" in Chief (Space Delimited .prn format) and the points appeared with proper elevation data at each point. It looks like Moasure requires a $9.99 monthly subscription to obtain the 3D data function. My phone is only able to measure Distance and Angle in the app. Entrance_3D_Example.prn Entrance_3D_Example.CSV
  7. Assuming you have automatic roofs turned on, Break the porch wall into 3 walls, with the middle wall the width of the "aesthetic A". The simplest way is to draw perpendicular cad lines across the wall at the proper distances and then break the walls at those cad lines. Open the dbx of the middle wall and change the roof to full gable. Close the dbx and the program should draw the gable matching the pitch of the adjacent planes. This will also mess up your porch columns most likely if they are drawn and spaced automatically. Ignore this. Turn off automatic roofs. reconnect the front porch wall to be one continuous wall - porch columns should correct themselves. After this, you cannot auto update the roof without losing this detail. I usually wait until I'm done with the remainder of a plan to finalize odd details like this. Lastly, if you desire the front gable pitch to be different from the adjacent planes, you can open the gable roof planes and change them to the desired pitch. There's a bit of cleanup work here on both the ridge connection and connecting valleys. It takes a little practice and is much easier to do in 3-D once you get the hang of it. Hope this helps.
  8. Steve, you're killing me. Concrete walls stacked isn't Brittany's problem. Neither front, nor rear, walls of Brittany's model stack, they cantilever past the lower walls approximately 1' front, 2' rear.. The rooms that stack don't exhibit the problem. Just look at her sidewalls along the middle of her building. Enlarge your second floor on either end so that it cantilevers past the wall below, spin it up and....voila, you have a model that actually exhibits Brittany's problem. To fix it, change one of the cantilever walls to something like 6" siding. Let me know when your face looks like this... Have a Happy Memorial Day
  9. You are using concrete walls. These do not have an exterior layer (which automatically extends to the floor below) OPTION #1 - Add an exterior layer to your default walls, OPTION #2 - Open the Wall Specifications DBX, select "Structure" and check "Go Through Floor Below" under Platform Intersections. close the dbx and your views will upgrade. Try option #2 on one wall and you will see the difference immediately.
  10. Couple of thoughts, Table 602.3(6) is an alternate to Table 602.3(5), which is an illustration for Section 602.3.1 Stud size, height and spacing. There is a limited exception (2) that allows 18' 2x6's @16"oc & 20' 2x6's @ 12"oc where the tributary span is less than 6' (which means 12' span between bearing points) Unfortunately my building spans are usually 15'+ for 2x10+ joists) Table 602.3(5) footnote (a) restates this as follows, Increases in unsupported height are permitted where in compliance with Exception 2 of Section 602.3.1 or designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice. We once had an inspector refusing to allow us to "double every third" joist (which equates to 12" on center but allows standard mechanicals to be run between the joists.) After consulting with other inspectors, he allowed this "accepted engineering practice" that was not "per code." Lastly, have an engineer give you a blanket statement regarding the spans you actually use and include it with your plans. We've done this before as well. A one-time cost is then offset by multiple future uses and both you and the inspector are covered in case there is a question regarding the practice down the road. Good luck.
  11. You are essentially building a "split-level". Typically this is a 2 story home where one side is often 4'-8' lower/higher than the other side. A duplex would be another term that could apply, each unit having a different base elevation. TO DRAW THE ENTIRE BUILDING IN ONE FILE, Figure Phase 1 is the primary building so all floor elevations of your subsequent building are based in reference to that one. So when you draw the phase 2 part of the building, before dividing it into rooms, increase the floor elevation by 4' (per your example). I'd box out the second and basement floors and define them and make sure they are proper height in relation to the adjacent floors (open a cross section to verify). I'd also complete the roof and make sure the exterior looks properly and ties in well with the phase 1 roof. The reason is that if you have all the rooms divided up, and you need to make a change (like from 4' above to 3'6" because that works out better), then you will have to open each room on each level and change them individually - and if you miss one, the level below will give you fits. TO DRAW THE BUILDINGS INDIVIDUALLY We've also drawn the buildings separately using a dividing wall, exported them as models, then imported them and placed them side by side with the shift in elevation. This doesn't work as well on splits because the roofs don't plane out very well when there's a +4' difference between the two. We've had situations where one unit has 9'/8' ceilings 1st floor/2nd floor and 2nd unit has 10'/9' ceilings because the terrain sloped 2' between one unit and the next. The roof's planed out together and the front doors/garages were +/- 2 feet on each unit. This way the models looked coherent when placed together. Duplex method is nice if you want to separately account for room schedules, living space, etc.... The entire building in one file gives back total square footage and it is hard to tell which room belongs to which level. Hope this helps.
  12. I've been wanting to automate my title block for years. In addition to Joe's macro I added another that subtracts 1986 from the current year to give me a %years_open% value. Thank you Joe for the answer and RGardner for asking the question!
  13. Make sure your NVDIA drivers are updated to the current ones. This has turned out to be the culprit every time Tech Support troubleshoots this with me. Happens on X9 & X10.
  14. You can draw it fairly easily using slabs, then coloring the slabs. The bolts would take a little longer . To draw the text, I switched to orthagonal view, selected an isometric view, then copied region as a picture and special paste this image onto a CAD Detail window. The isometric places the object at a 30 degree angle. You can then draw lines and place some of the text (see attached) But I'm as curious as Chopsaw as to why? If that's the image you need, cut and paste it into chief and use it. Hope this helps.
  15. Tracer, Your plan file doesn't include any terrain. (the terrain was turned off. I found it) It also shows the retaining wall at the end of the garage (farthest right) while your PDF's show the retaining wall at the left edge of the garage where it abuts the house. Couple of tips. Create a terrain hole for the main walkout area bounded by the retaining walls This is the simplest way to drop the terrain down to the walkout patio floor height. Place the highest elevation point outside the wall (or 1" inside the wall) and the lowest elevation you want on the other side of the wall (or 1" inside the wall so that both points are 6" apart on an 8" wall. This makes chief drop the elevation within the wall itself so that you don't see the terrain rolling downward. doesn't always work as good as a terrain hole, but pretty close. Now that I could see the terrain, you needed to change the shapes of your elevation regions to create the slope following the wall angling downward - so that the terrrain lines are perpendicular to and following the elevation changes in your wall. I just quickly drew some elevation lines -1' every 2' to match your wall slope approximately. I created a hole over the wall and expanded it over the lower region, then used a slab on grade textured to match the terrain to make the grass butt against the lower wall. You need to play around with it a little more to get it to your liking. Hope this helps. John. MAYNARD_TUTTLE_11_21.17-2.plan