• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About JiAngelo

  • Rank
  • Birthday 01/23/1961

Contact Methods

  • Houzz
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Galena, Ohio

Recent Profile Visitors

1551 profile views
  1. Steve, you're killing me. Concrete walls stacked isn't Brittany's problem. Neither front, nor rear, walls of Brittany's model stack, they cantilever past the lower walls approximately 1' front, 2' rear.. The rooms that stack don't exhibit the problem. Just look at her sidewalls along the middle of her building. Enlarge your second floor on either end so that it cantilevers past the wall below, spin it up and....voila, you have a model that actually exhibits Brittany's problem. To fix it, change one of the cantilever walls to something like 6" siding.
  2. You are using concrete walls. These do not have an exterior layer (which automatically extends to the floor below) OPTION #1 - Add an exterior layer to your default walls, OPTION #2 - Open the Wall Specifications DBX, select "Structure" and check "Go Through Floor Below" under Platform Intersections. close the dbx and your views will upgrade. Try option #2 on one wall and you will see the difference immediately.
  3. Couple of thoughts, Table 602.3(6) is an alternate to Table 602.3(5), which is an illustration for Section 602.3.1 Stud size, height and spacing. There is a limited exception (2) that allows 18' 2x6's @16"oc & 20' 2x6's @ 12"oc where the tributary span is less than 6' (which means 12' span between bearing points) Unfortunately my building spans are usually 15'+ for 2x10+ joists) Table 602.3(5) footnote (a) restates this as follows, Increases in unsupported height are permitted where in compliance with Exception 2 of Section 602.3.1 or designed in accordance with accepted eng
  4. You are essentially building a "split-level". Typically this is a 2 story home where one side is often 4'-8' lower/higher than the other side. A duplex would be another term that could apply, each unit having a different base elevation. TO DRAW THE ENTIRE BUILDING IN ONE FILE, Figure Phase 1 is the primary building so all floor elevations of your subsequent building are based in reference to that one. So when you draw the phase 2 part of the building, before dividing it into rooms, increase the floor elevation by 4' (per your example). I'd box out the second and basement
  5. I've been wanting to automate my title block for years. In addition to Joe's macro I added another that subtracts 1986 from the current year to give me a %years_open% value. Thank you Joe for the answer and RGardner for asking the question!
  6. Make sure your NVDIA drivers are updated to the current ones. This has turned out to be the culprit every time Tech Support troubleshoots this with me. Happens on X9 & X10.
  7. You can draw it fairly easily using slabs, then coloring the slabs. The bolts would take a little longer . To draw the text, I switched to orthagonal view, selected an isometric view, then copied region as a picture and special paste this image onto a CAD Detail window. The isometric places the object at a 30 degree angle. You can then draw lines and place some of the text (see attached) But I'm as curious as Chopsaw as to why? If that's the image you need, cut and paste it into chief and use it. Hope this helps.
  8. Tracer, Your plan file doesn't include any terrain. (the terrain was turned off. I found it) It also shows the retaining wall at the end of the garage (farthest right) while your PDF's show the retaining wall at the left edge of the garage where it abuts the house. Couple of tips. Create a terrain hole for the main walkout area bounded by the retaining walls This is the simplest way to drop the terrain down to the walkout patio floor height. Place the highest elevation point outside the wall (or 1" inside the wall) and the lowest elevation you want on the other sid
  9. (3) 30" Dell monitors. Each 2560x1600. They've outlasted 3 computer rigs. I have fourth monitor, but I need a longer desk...
  10. Sorry, "Locking the roof" is a term I use with clients. It actually means we're done moving exterior walls and I can turn automatic roofs "off" to hand draw / modify any roof planes/dormers/overhangs that aren't drawn as we want. The back master plane is the trickiest. Practice pushing and pulling them like you would a slab or soffit. Just along a different axis following/matching the peaks, valleys and overhangs of the adjacent planes.
  11. Coralie, I didn't catch you'd included the plan in your first post. I downloaded it and fixed it See attached. Couple of notes. You need to leave the back left master bath wall as a hip, not a gable. It explodes the roof. Changed the front right wall of this left master to a hip, not a gable put room dividers on the right bedroom rooms that split the vault-flat lines (like the hall, half the W/C and the left side of what looks like pantry? Set all the rooms you want vaulted to "no ceiling" just roof on the structure tab. I added roof planes
  12. This is without any porches covered with roofs. The back gable is scissored within the main truss. I used 8/12 pitches. (see first 3 attachments.) The fourth attachment removes the hip and uses a common truss with a scissor on the back end to achieve the gable in the back area. It destroys the front right gable, but I think this could be worked around with some half trusses. The last attachment is my drawing over your sketch extending the lines that control the roof points (disregarding your interior for the moment.) I changed all my gable roofs to 4" yellow so tha
  13. Very impressive. I like how the mounting posts are independent of the sign itself. Easier to clean and store. .
  14. I place the roof plan layout of the first floor on the page, Select it, then cut and paste an identical layout box over it, open that pasted box and change the Plan View Tab to the 2nd Floor. I then extend the 2nd Floor Box right side all the way to the right of my layout page. I then extend the 1st Floor Box top side all the way up to the top of my layout page. The last two steps makes it easy for me to know which box I've selected if I need to change anything. For instance, sometimes I will toggle additional interior walls to show if I need them to determine interio
  15. Yes. Using elevation splines, then break and move points to match the image, open and input correct elevation data