JiAngelo

Whomever is giving you these DWG files is doing you no favors. Apparently it was created in AECCLAND130 or Civil3D. I had to download a Civil Object Enabler 2026 from Autodesk, add it to my TrueView 2026, in order to be able to even see the objects in TrueView. Below is what they looked like before installing COE2026. I used DWG Convert within TrueView to export as Autocad 2018, Autocad 2013, and Autocad 2010. Each allowed me to load the file, but all showed the Civil3D information as Blocks. In fact, this is how the import looked when selecting all. Notice the bounding box extending left and down. (red circles) I zoomed out and scrolled to the opposite end of the bounding box and found this. (red circles are bounding box lines.) NOTICE THE COORDINATES OF THIS BLOCK. And if you explode it you will see this. I deleted it, then hit zoom all, and select all. I then zoomed in on the lower left point and circled below you will find how far it was from the opposite corner.. You need to ask whomever created the DWG, to recreate it exploding all objects as plain autocad entities. They cannot have your elevation points existing inside a block of point_name, point_id, and point_elevation, along with the point itself because CA can't look inside a block to retrieve the information. Hope this helps. 1862801569_410LUNETADRIVE (1).dwg

That invisible wall is 10' tall which means the 8' porch roof is stopping automatically at the wall, butting against it, not through it. Follow @CharlesVolz Option #2 above and extend the roofline to the other side of that wall is the quickest and easiest solution. You can wait and do it last if you still need autoroof turned on to finish up other design details.

After you crop, updating the layout box should refresh the elevation view to the correct resolution. Check if your terrain is too wide to the right. The sent layout view will encompass all of it. At random times I'll have a radius drive meeting the road improperly, or two opposing roof planes intersecting improperly, causing a curb or facia to extend off to some distant point. I sometimes can't see it until the 3d view is rotated just right and it flickers into view.

My apologies, I thought the best method achievable today to manage multiple concepts was the premise of this general discussion. Your desire for "a contained or "blocked" option system" describes what every plan file actually represents. Being able to reference portions of one plan file within another plan file is the method to achieve precisely what you desire today. When you reference portions of Plan1 or Plan2 inside Plan0 they appear as a your "Group or "block" elements like walls that don't actively define a room boundary." Inside Plan1 or Plan2 is where you "edit those grouped elements without fully breaking them apart each time." Because each appears as a group when referenced inside Plan0, but exist as individual items in Plans 1 & 2. Click over to Plan2 tab, make some changes. Click back to Plan0 tab and those Plan2 changes, if they were on the referenced layer set, appear instantly in Plan0. I don't see how it gets any simpler than having a few open tabs with one click to visit the unblocked optional "contained" plan versions. Here's an example that was done in reverse. Here's the Plan 0 foundation. Here's Plan 2 option client chose Inside Plan 2 I have already referenced Plan 0 within it. Here's what happens when I turn reference layers on in plan view. Damn, I need those dimensions on the reference layer turned off. Lets redefine the reference layer (Plan0) to not show dimensions or room names. Wait a second, there was a shed we forgot to show on Plan0 behind the garage. Let's click over to Plan0 and add it. And instantly look what happens to our view in Plan2 And before i forget, Here's Plan 1 inside this addition. Compared to Plan2 (with reference Plan0 turned off) I did this in reverse because I personally wanted to make sure I didn't place new foundation over any of the other old garage walls. Then I waited until clients chose which option they want before refining the one they chose, ready for permitting. Two options plus the as-built inside one plan file introduces several problems as other users previously noted. Schedules, material lists, conflicting roof planes if you are showing two different room addition options. Ceiling heights if one option is to open the ceiling to a loft above. And there's an entire thread devoted to auto foundations. Imagine this turned on with multiple upstairs options simultaneously present - or you start switching between them??? Lastly, you need to call out the reference plan separately, or twice, one in plan view and again in 3D view. This is achievable today.

Starting with your last point first, you can already reference another plan file in the same x/y/z space. In Plan 0 you can toggle off the walls and objects you plan to change. Then Reference Plan 1 (or Plan 2, etc.) with only the changed walls and objects turned on in the referenced Plan layers etc. The blocked container version you are referring to is precisely what the option files called Plan 1, Plan 2, etc... already are. With regards to A&B, Chief defines spaces as rooms. You can't add, subtract or move "alternate" walls without redefining the rooms they contain. Imagine you wanted to shrink a 10'x10' laundry room 1' so that your 10'x10' kitchen could be 1' larger. There is no way a 10'x9' opt. laundry and 10'x11' opt. kitchen can coexist in the same plan file with the (2) 10'x10' original rooms. However they could be referenced within the plan 0 and quickly toggled on/off using layersets. Make a change in Plan 2 and the reference will update if displayed in Plan 0. And within each optional plan file you can accurately create the material list, calculate floor areas, and room volumes accurately. This is especially beneficial if you had Plan 1 showing a wall with 4 ganged windows and Plan 2 had 3 separated in the same space where Plan 0 originally had no windows at all. @SH_Canada stated it correctly. However I often use @Alaskan_Son's method in the short term when initially designing spaces and I'm trying different room layouts to see which one works best. Eventually I have to delete all those offset ideas so that my schedules are correct when sent to layout.

In elevation view you can also rotate objects on the z-axis.

In your first picture you highlighted.layer #1 and framing is checked. Uncheck framing for each layer except #2, #6 and #8. Autoframing should then only joist frame those three layers and treat the others as sheet goods. This might give you the floor detail you want but it wont give you the slope on layers 2-6. Personally I'd choose to represent this as a cad detail because... --Layers 7&8 are a standard flat deck. --Layer 6 is a rafter with a 1/4" slope on top of the deck. --Layers 3-5 are secured to Layer 6 and sloped. --Layer 2 is reverse sloped 1/4" to bring the deck surface (Layer 1) back to level. --Layer 1 is level (but I've never seen 3.5" thick decking, so I'm wondering if layers1 and 2 are reversed?) 2nd alternative. Combine layers 2-6 as a single framing layer sum of each layers depth. Then cross section that joist and.draw the sloped layers manually. Because typically when we build these types of roofs we cut the angled rafters out of one larger rafter so that we have the top(2) and bottom(6) matching slopes to bring the finished deck back to level. (Note the sum of layers 2&6 plus a saw blade is 7-1/4".) Hope this helps.

Would have taken less time if you'd posted your plan. I agree Chief could provide a simpler way to create a CSV table of elevation points. I used a Plot Plan Note, added custom fields to match yours, and added some custom macros that /12 and round(4) decimal places for macro values elevationf, x_position & y_position. The Plan Notes Schedule allows you to specify 4 trailing zeros. Everything is now shown in feet, so I didn't bother to call that out. Each Note has an arrow to read an elevation point's data. Once you have one created and showing the correct values, you can copy & paste/move the note+arrow to the next point and it will auto populate the schedule if you uncheck "group similar objects". They will incrementally number themselves with each copy/paste, then on the schedule you can drag them into the order you want and they will renumber again automatically. (I actually added an extra field to know which was #1, #2, etc. which made it easier to order the POINTNO field. After I exported to CSV, I added some calculations to the right to get perimeter distances between the points 1-4 and doublecheck everything.. If your macro is 10 years old, it probably needs adjusted like @Alaskan_Son indicated above.

When you select the table there is an "export text" icon (circled green below) that is also on the right-click menu. selecting the icon opens up options for TXT, CSV and XML exports. For CSV I normally check "open in default spreadsheet editor" and it automatically opens in XLS after export. You can then resave in XLS format or keep it as CSV. When I save it in XLS format, I can add columns to the right that calculate on the data in the imported columns. On subsequent exports to a new CSV filename, I can cut and paste the new imported data over the old imported columns in my XLS format and the calculations will update themselves based on the new data provided.

Building upon what @Larry_Sweeney said, you can't mull an entire array of windows (x rows, y columns). Here that equals [3,2] You must mull either the same row or same column windows first into one unit, then you can mull the units all together. Mulling only each column of windows will eliminate the trim between AND Chief will still locate the center of each window column. Chief will only locate the center of the middle window once rows are mulled.

Are you sure you didn't check "Ignore Top (Second) Floor? Uncheck that if you did.

An attic room isn't a 3rd story. It is inside the required roof pitches and your use is non-habitable, for mechanical equipment only. City will allow this use. Exactly what are your overhangs required to be? Spanning the entire 1186cm likely will require a 60cm floor truss system. Send out the plans and find out.

To keep a 7/12 pitch (30 degrees) And stay under 950cm, per your authority Change first floor to 285cm, net 265cm after your drop ceiling for MEPs.. Change second floor to 265cm and move MEP's to attic area. This should have you at 947.6cm entrance to ridge. You should have enough room to create an insulated attic room 430cm wide by 250cm tall in a hipped roof. The attic room can run the full length of a gable roof w/ windows on either end. The attc room could be only 125cm tall if you like, like below (from a building I'd drawn for another client) Or, at 250cm's it looks like this on another project we are constructing now. Personally I would choose the above to eliminate the need for any flat roof areas. The attic room only needs to be large enough for equipment and access - this would save money too.

I can't speak to shipping with a the 2% sloped top chord, I'll ask our truss guys about this next week. But we are currently doing a job now where we needed to stay under 35' and the truss company was building them with a flat top for piggyback trusses to be installed above. They did this so that the trusses wouldn't be too tall, which requires extra expense to ship across our state. We ended up changing the pitch from 10/12 to 9/12 and this allowed our piggybacks & shingles to fit under the 35' maximum. But, we were prepared to install plywood flat over the top of the trusses, then add a tapered iso to give us the required 1/4" per foot minimum slope. That equals 1.18 degrees, so 2 degrees is definitely above the minimum. here's an example of the tapered iso. Here's a flat roof transition to sloped roof detail. Ignore the gravel, a flat rubber roof doesn't need it. The 2 degree slope will have water running off onto the shingles all the way around. The good thing is this design has you 35.9cm under the authority's 950cm - in case they change their definition of ground level at the entrance. With the flat roof, I'd prefer the gable design so that I could install gable vents on the ends rather than hat vents on the 7/12 slopes or anything piercing the flat roof itself. Hope this helps.

I didn't say you did. I was saying the rails are decorative and not required unless there is access there. Here's your trusses with a 2 degree flat peak. This is hipped with a girder (circled in green.) Flat top trusses start further back and above the garage trusses. Below is gable ends, 7/12 front to back main house and 7/12 left to right over garage. I think you could raise the front pitch maybe 5 degrees and not impact the flat roof? Every number you've requested is represented in the story pole below and I'm under 950cm (500mm) I can't believe this doesn't put a smile on your face.