JiAngelo

Yes to 2nd question. And change the 2nd floor roof pitch to 1/4" if you want it to resemble the picture posted previously.

For the eaves to match at the front porch and to use autoroof, Make the garage and middle room above roof planes all 12/12. Don't build those attic rooms just yet. I personally then lower the room above ceiling to 4' 1 1/8" ceiling height (the minimum I generally want my room above sidewalls to be) . It was luck this worked first time around. My garage was 24' wide and the room was 12' wide centered above. Next step is to see how much wider I can make the room. Turns out 14' is too wide, but 13'8" works fine. If I'm ready to lock the roofs on the entire house, then I uncheck automatic roofs and set the ceiling height back to std. in this room. Chief then draws the slope start lines automatically. If the room was being used for storage, I might lower the walls to 37 1/8" and that would allow the room to be even wider. This is the only way I've found to control the sidewall heights. There's another method that draws the walls under the roof regardless of the sidewall height - it just does whatever makes it work and then I have to compare elevations to figure out heights. Alternatively some room truss designs require the side rooms so that a 10" bottom chord extends the entire length. Using Kellyh's method, In the side rooms I would set the room height anywhere from 1.5" to 7.5" - unfortunately the overhangs won't align with a front porch unless you raise the porch roof - which is a problem if there are windows above to consider. I've never been happy with the attic room results unless the room is alone on a floor by itself.

My bad. I didn't catch the outside unit. Given the room size, and balancing this with cost (a window unit is only $200), what if you inset the wall between the doors, reducing just the toilet space to 3'4", leaving the bathroom 4' wide at the sink? I also reduced the doors to 2'6" wide and made the bathroom 7'8" deep. I am showing the inset wall as block, but it could easily be a 6" siding wall, accenting the block to either side and increase the toilet space to 3'6". This allows a passthrough that is a few inches wider than a 5,000 btu unit to maintain airflow on the outside. These small ac units are only 15"-16" deep.

>Tools >Layout >Referenced Plan Files double-click the one you want to change and select new plan. If the views exist in the new plan they will repopulate. This includes cameras, cross sections, and cad details.

Check this out. It could mount over the toilet. https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-LQN090HV4/p106101.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwO20BhCJARIsAAnTIVTrbGyYyYlroj21QWNWBjz4s0egVLQ-FTU9yg3C2zXd47OBLjtlcZEaAhKPEALw_wcB Also look at RV ac units. Problem is your room is less than 40sf so any wall unit is likely oversized.

Send a plan view image with the camera location showing please.

To create a model, -View the house in 3D, no terrain. -Turn off any interior furniture (To lessen the size of the model). -Export as a 3D model (I prefer *.dae) In your terrain plan, -import 3D model. -Chief will add it to the library. -select it like you would a fixture and place it where you want it. For.me it imports with the basement footer at terrain.elevation. so I have to sink the house about 8-9 feet along the z axis. (Usually until the garage doors are 2" above the terrain.) Then place the house where.you.like. Then repeat for the other floor.plans you want to include. The upside is all 3 homes are now independent for schedules, notes, details and material lists. The downside is if you.make any changes to a plan, you need to re-export, re-import, amd replace the model. There is a better way. Simply "reference" another plan from your terrain file, like you would another floor. Renerabbit showed me this a while back, I haven't had the time to.master it. It is similar to placing a footprint in a cad detail (but in the terrain file's plan view) Best part is it is live. If you change the house floorplan, the changes show up in the terrain file.when it is reopened. Chief has a help dbx that will walk you through it. Hope this helps. We use it for subdivisions to show.many different homes side by side.

I was hoping this isn't what he meant. It's a bit more complicated than that. Due to the curvature of the earth, every area is divided into a "state plane" grid that surveyors use. Here's my area's coordinate system. I am in OH_S The last DXF's from my surveyor has one corner of our 50'x100' lot located at x= 21767534.875" and y=2539813.4375" from Chief's origin. (also my surveyor's state plane origin, which for us happens to be near Edinburg Illinois, southeast of Springfield.) I only know this because I had drawn a house near the origin exported it to my surveyor and he sent it back to me to show me where my drawings were showing up on his system in comparison to where my lot was actually drawn. In the reverse, if I import the surveyor's dxf and choose "ignore" when the following dbx pops up, Then draw my home inside his dxf lines, then what I export back to him will have the house located exactly in his system, our our excavators GPS equipment, and our own GPS tablets. This takes some practice to get used to.

Change your CAD defaults to display quadrant bearing and decimal feet. Lots are typically closed polygons, so I turn on "Show Length" and "Show Angle" in the "Line Style" section of the Polyline DBX. (last image above) You can manually draw a survey by placing a starting point X then double clicking the line tool and entering the distances and orientations of each sequential line. The resulting dxf will give your surveyor the correct orientation of your home in reference to the lot lines you drew. Note, the dxf lot lines themselves will not be located to real world state plane coordinates (GPS) - that's a bit more involved and is usually done in the reverse starting with a dxf from your surveyor or county GIS center.

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The csv data is for a shape file.

Can you post in the kml and shapefile formats?

Have you tried room dividers at the breaks so that Chief sees 3 different rooms defined? Then try changing the middle room to roof group 1. But I have to ask how you intend to deal with eaves on the long side? You need the planes to start off at the same facia plane, not the heel height.

In your wall definition on the upper wall move the plywood to inside the main layer. However all exterior dimensions will now be to this plywood, not the stud.

Each "room" is ~2 feet above the other. (3x tread height) Often I'll design a third room "patio" to define a landing area for the stairs off the deck. It's not necessary but helps when drawing. Stairs then belong to the lowest heading up to the next room.