rlackore

To fix the garage issue, go to Level 1 and open the garage room dbx, then change: To fix the basement issue, go to Level 0 and open the basement room dbx, then change: To fix the pony wall issue, open the lower wall type definition dbx and change the brick ledge depth to 0": These changes should give you this: There may be a more elegant way to set up the model, but these changes should achieve your short-term goals. Good luck.

This is so cool. Game changer. Thanks, Rene!

I suggest you don't use the revision process as the primary method to respond to an RFI. If your response to an RFI requires a revision, then document the revision appropriately. Plan check comments are text questions (I've never received a clouded drawing from a plan reviewer), so I prefer to respond in kind, e.g. "Refer to detail 5/A6 for the location of the intumescent gasket, and Specification section 078100 for the product and manufacturer." If an explanation can't suffice, then perhaps the drawings weren't clear enough and a revision is appropriate.

Two ceiling cassettes, a 1-way, and a 4-way. I didn't include the geometry for the concealed housings - these are the grilles only. Ceiling Cassettes.calibz

Try scrolling down just a little bit further:

I believe this is because the Subfloor Height Above Terrain setting affects the "floor height" of the Exterior Room, which is the room that contains the exterior fixtures. Set your exterior fixture Elevation Reference to Absolute.

Here's a file you can manipulate in Photoshop: hextile.psd Or in the Gimp: hextile.xcf

Dermot, this is very easy to do; simply open the Plan Materials dbx, select any material, clip Copy, and rename the new material to have the same name as the copied material. Presto - two materials, identical properties, same name.

Chief doesn't combine like-named materials. You could have two completely different material definitions with the same name - it's up to you to keep things organized. Personally, I prefer this behavior: I use generic terms in most of my room finish schedules, e.g. "tile", "carpet", etc. - my intent is for the owner to make the actual product selection; but in 3D I may want two rooms with "carpet" to visually appear to have different styles and colors of carpet. Maybe there's a more elegant solution, but this is my current workflow.

You may already know everything I'm about to cover, but here we go. California's rules for low-rise residential provides for two basic scenarios: If the air handlers and ducts are located in conditioned space (e.g. on a floor below the attic), then you can insulate the attic in a conventional manner, with the insulation placed above the ceiling to separate the unconditioned attic from the floor below. If you're placing the air handlers and ducts within the attic, then you have to create a conditioned space for the equipment by insulating both the ceiling (attic floor) and the roof deck; in this scenario, you don't have to condition the entire attic - you could create a separate conditioned space in the attic for the HVAC equipment. Regardless, I suggest https://www.energy.ca.gov/sites/default/files/2020-06/03-BuildingEnvelope_ada.pdf as a good starting point; start reading on page 3-52.

Maybe this could satisfy the inspector: https://stuccomfgassoc.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/One-Hour-Fire-Walls-Wood-2020.pdf

I apologize for clogging this thread with useless info - I had no idea that Chief had a native screen capture tool.

Consider downloading Substance Player and using the free tile builder to create your tile. Currently, there isn't an option for glass tile, but you can get reasonably close using the metal material, and maybe they would add glass if you request it in the thread.

Perhaps I don't understand. Are you trying to capture the image of the tile shown in the web browser, or the image of the material as rendered in the Chief program window?.

Can you right-click on the image and "Save image as"?

There are a bunch of payware options for those vehicles. If it's really important, maybe your client is willing to fork out the $100 bucks or so per model.

For the lower part of the wall, break the wall at the living room intersection and change the wall type. For the upper part of the wall, select it and change the roof options for Lower Wall Type if Split By Butting Roof: These steps will give you brick on the outside, drywall on the inside. You'll need to fiddle with some clean-up, but this should get you headed in the right direction.

I have never been successful in breaking a 3D Molding Polyline, so I've always assumed it's not possible.

Agreed. In my experience this is true only if it's foil-faced, otherwise, most unfaced products are considered a Class I vapor retarder (vapor semi-impermeable, 0.1 to 1.0 perms) at thicknesses of greater than 1 inch, and a Class II vapor retarder (vapor semi-permeable, 1.0 perm to 10.0 perms) at thicknesses of one inch or less.

Perhaps in Alaska where you encounter subarctic and arctic conditions, but in my opinion, an "intelligent" vapor retarder is suitable as the interior vapor control layer in cold climates. Latex paint is also a possibility, but because it's always vapor permeable (i.e. not hygroscopic - its permeability doesn't adjust to the indoor relative humidity), you have to make sure you've got a good air barrier and can limit air movement into the wall at penetrations, etc. So, what's the basis of your opinion?

I'm going to throw in my two cents on the vapor barrier issue. Depending on the climate zone, local codes may require an interior vapor barrier - the old standby was sheet polyethylene, which is still used and is a true vapor barrier (0.1 perm or less). Nowadays it's preferable to use a vapor semi-impermeable vapor retarder (1.0 perm or less, and greater than 0.1 perm) instead of a vapor barrier. As Alan mentioned, the Pro Clima Intello Plus, imported by 475, is a good product, but it can be difficult to source in some parts of the country. I recommend the Certainteed Membrain, which is also an "intelligent" vapor retarder. Tyvek, and similar "housewraps", are generally vapor permeable (10 perms or greater), and are intended to act as an air and weather barrier, not as a vapor retarder (or vapor barrier).

The polylines need to be closed. First, clean things up a bit - the left brace has some extra lines - then select all the lines and make certain they all have identical properties (Line Style tab). In this screenshot, you can see that the lines don't have the same Weight: After you've made the lines identical, then they will "close" properly, and you will get the option to convert them to a polyline solid.

Can you please post a screenshot showing the condition? Posting the plan also works.

I suggest adding the thickness of the furring strips to the thickness of the siding - IOW, use a single wall layer to account for both materials. This is my strategy for rain screens and air spaces. However, this method won't provide an accurate Section or an accurate Material List. FWIW, I don't include the CI as a separate wall layer either - everything to the exterior of the sheathing I roll into a single layer, then I use details, sections, text, and the exterior elevations to communicate the wall construction. But this is a personal choice - everyone has different needs and preferences.