rlackore

Chief's programmed behavior is to zoom approximately 10% with a single mouse-wheel "notch". I haven't noticed any zooming issues since the update.

Maybe:

1. Select the two end railing walls and set Rail Style>Start/End Posts>Start Type to None: 2. Select the front railing wall and set Rail Style>Newels/Post to Rail to Post: 3. Enjoy the result:

Can you shoot an ortho view and pull the walls down, then add a Wall Cap? This screen shot uses Flat Ceiling Over This Room with a default Ceiling Finish:

I don't think you're missing anything. The Plan View displays the Roof Overhang to the exterior face of the subfascia, and it displays the Roof Plane to the exterior of the fasica/shadowboard. I believe the Reference Manual is not consistent with what is actually displayed. And, there is the problem with the language used to explain Boxed Eaves and Default to Overhang.

Ryan, I suspect the OP needs a full 8" thick wall below grade as shown in the detail, which is why an extended top-chord bearing is necessary. Truss bearing length may also be an issue. These are design issues, but they manifest as Chief issues when attempting to model the conditions. It would be nice if the software would give us more control over truss end conditions.

You can get close using a Pony Wall for the foundation wall and checking Wall Specification>Structure>Platform Intersections>Ceiling Platform>Hang Floor Platform Above on Wall. Draw a Floor Truss, modify it, lock it, then copy it across. You will still need some CAD work to clean up the sections, or you can not worry about modeling the condition and simply reference the nice detail you have.

I see your windows when I open the plan:

I don't think there is an automatic method. You could fill that space with a Material Region.

DAE

The projected areas of the porch ceiling and the 2nd floor bedroom overlap. If the porch ceiling is at 12', and the bedroom floor is at 10', something has to give. If you raise the porch ceiling, Chief is going to raise the bedroom floor. If you lower the bedroom floor, Chief will lower the porch ceiling. You can't have it both ways.

Cut a section through that area. When you raise the porch ceiling, you're also raising the floor of the second floor bedroom. Solving that issue will put you on a path to solving your original issue.

Pony wall with a wall cap for the sill. Maybe I'm missing something in what the OP is trying to accomplish.

I suggest using Pony Walls.

Change the symbol Label: Create an Electrical Schedule: There are options you can play around with to get the schedule and labels exactly how you want them; consult the X13 Reference Manual.

Is there anything to smoke in the Yukon, other than salmon? FWIW, I like the design.

The reason you're seeing the "gap" after using my "fix" is because the camera is picking up the wall beyond, which also has a sill plate. With a concrete deck, I doubt that you want a wood sill plate on top of your masonry walls, so getting rid of the sill plate not only fixes the visual issue, but is probably more correct IRL.

It does work. Set you camera backclip to 0mm.

To get rid of the "small gap", select the interior wall: Wall Specification>Foundation: uncheck Sill Plate

Maybe: Wall Specification>Structure>Platform Intersections>Ceiling Platform>Hang Floor Platform Above on Wall: check Subflooring to Wall Interior

When PBR was introduced, I had this issue whenever I had a camera that was showing more than one floor, e.g. open-to-below areas, stairwells, etc. This is one reason I gave up on PBR shortly thereafter.

Select the pony wall, change the Display in Plan View setting to show the bottom wall, then use the Edit Wall Layer Intersection tool to correct the issue. Should work, but it can be tricky.

The molding polyline for the cables and handrail run right through the corner, but I use separate distribution paths so I can precisely adjust the location of the newels.

I take it one step further than Glenn, and use a Distribution Path for the newels on fascia-mount systems.

Digging through all my old references, I've found a few that advise that the horizontal length of the footing should not be less than 2 feet. So, length should be no less than 2 feet, and drop should be no greater than 2 feet. Unless engineered, of course. I advise using a haunch in the footing at the step.