rlackore

The Gypsum Association WP 9021 requires 3 layers of 5/8" type X, but the UL V421 allows 3 layers of 1/2" regular. The UL assembly might save a bit of money, if the building department allows the UL assembly.

Check out the UL BXUV V421 assembly. If you don't have access to the online UL database, you can use the attached publication from the MBMA - it's old, but the assembly hasn't changed. The head-of-wall is an area of special concern - you'll have to detail that yourself based on the roof construction. MBMA UL V421.pdf

Does the fire separation distance require a wall rated from both sides, or just the interior side?

You could drag the wall up to meet the eave.

And the EV200 also requires a 40 amp circuit - my mistake - I'll edit my post. California is always out ahead of everyone else; in Wisconsin we've just begun to see local jurisdictions require car charging stations in multi-family developments.

This post may get better results in the Seeking Services forum.

Here is the Bosch EV200 charging station. It has the standard SAE J1772 connector and requires 208/240 on its own 40 amp circuit. charging station.calibz

You need to build the framing:

Have you considered adjusting the DPI when you print to PDF? FWIW, I create a Dropbox folder for each project to transfer and share files, documents, etc.

Just spit-balling, but it looks like the kitchen ceiling has been lowered by: 1. unchecking Room Specification>Structure>Ceiling>Flat Ceiling Over This Room 2. and then drawing a manual ceiling plane This will result in what I see in your picture, which I assume is the subfloor (or roof?) sheathing above. Of course, it's just one guess, based on a single picture, so who knows?

The OP answered your question:

You can use a Road with a 0"-height flat curb profile (width as desired), then assign the brick texture to the curb.

Thanks for this nugget - I didn't know that tool existed. I always use manual terrain holes to fine-tune things, and this tool will save some time.

You could adjust the window frame depth and inset, then use a wall niche applied to the exterior side of the wall:

Dustin, thanks for the explanation. And Rob, thanks for asking the question.

I can't achieve that behavior. The beam will cut the other framing members (sill plates), but it won't cut a pocket in the foundation wall:

Draw your stairs on the same level as your deck (level 1):

I use a Rich Text Box with macros for my room labels in plan view (credit to Alaskan Son for the %room.schedule_number% when I was pulling my hair out like you): ...then I create a Room Finish Schedule in a CAD Detail and modify as desired: I like this method because I can drag the schedule rows around and instantly rearrange the room order and it's automatically updated in the room labels.

Looking at your detail, if I were the plan reviewer, I'd want to know how you're achieving a 1-hour rating on the underside of the eave. The soffit detail I prefer uses two layers of 5/8" glass-mat gypsum panel (or equivalent), edge joints staggered and blocked, with an intumescent fire caulk where it butts against the 1-hour exterior wall assembly.

I would say no.

Yes, definitely a problem with this solution.

Sure, fair enough. Maybe I'm giving the plan reviewer too much credit for being able to determine the minimum requirement within the context of the entire paragraph.

Yes, it's easy if you use callouts for the labels: Create schedule #1. Duplicate schedule #1. Open schedule #2 and uncheck Labels>Use Callout for Label. This will give you two schedules, only one label (in both plan and elevation), perfectly in sync.

No. Isn't Florida's residential code based on the IRC? Referring the local officials to R302.3, and providing the Nudura details and listed details, should be sufficient to make your case. Note #4 only requires 1/2" type-x; if you're not using the 1/2" type-x, then you can use 1" of a concrete masonry product.

Don't forget that Chief only draws framing - it doesn't design framing. Unless you are willing (and able) to hand-jam the calculations, you'll need to invest in specialty structural design software. Empirical design and span tables will get you only so far. Not to mention that there are professionals who have dedicated their entire careers to mastering single disciplines such as timber framing. I don't know how old you are, or where you are in life, but here's a suggestion: get a job with a multi-disciplinary firm, spend 10 years learning how the industry works and what's involved. Let someone else pay you to learn the software, the shortcuts, the process, etc. But, we need risk-takers and visionaries to move the industry forward, so I wish you the best of luck and extraordinary success. Seriously.