MarkMc

I'm trying to find a way to have more manageable fluted fillers. I find millwork difficult-doesn't like to be selected and doesn't generate a counter.

Is there a way to import, or convert, or add to library- as a cabinet filler? I'm running into a wall.

I'm sort of a perennial newbie. While I always draw some or all of a building I don’t' typically have to deal with a lot of tools or issues that other folks do-that is until I have to deal with them. Not being as sharp as I once was, if I don't use a tool or option often enough I don't remember all the details. Couple that with the gotchas, ha-ha's, is it me?,work-arounds, and undocumented “features” if I have to do something outside my norm (cabinets) it can be like just learning the program anew. I use help and the manual constantly. Chief's help tools DO NOT document ha-ha's, gotchas or work-arounds. They don't tell you what doesn't work (as expected). If you run into one of those this is the place to find the answer. I read this forum daily, even lots of things I don't need to know. That way I know if a problem exists and has been addressed then it is easier to find when it comes time to search because I suddenly do need to know. It occasionally helps avoid endless redoing, slamming head into wall, "is it me?" Chiefs videos are good if I have a lot of time or want to learn something new (or again). But finding how to solve a particular problem somewhere within one or what does NOT work not so much. Th videos being a useful marketing too aren't going to be a place they want to show problems. Scott's videos OTOH are often about a gotcha and even if they aren't the way he attacks a problem they come up and always yield a nugget. Might help: -a categorized list of work-arounds in a sticky (if I knew more and had some spare time...). I started to put one together for kitchens last year when I was training someone. -the ability to mark individual comments something like they do in the idiot books: watch out, gotcha, tip, work-around...like that. Could be done with tags but would be really handy if they were on a specific comment instead of an entire thread. I look for the "solved" icon all the time, "hot" not so much (may just mean a good off topic bit of fun) Origin of “ha-ha”: a local mountain biking spot has this little hill with a twist in the trail. It looks easy and fun. Local lore has it that no one has ever successfully made it up. When a new guy comes along for a ride the group let's him take the lead at that stretch. The newbie attacks that stretch with gusto, but....crash, burn, ha-ha. Sometimes I wonder if some programmer is laughing his tail off somewhere.

Just discovered something by accident related to this. I have several drawer bases that had a separate drawer specified from the library for the lower drawers-default drawer is set to slab. If I drag a drawer symbol from the library onto one of these cabinets in 3d view-all (and only) the drawers that were specified as a different style than the default changed, the top row stayed as the default drawer. Very handy.I have no idea if this is new. Finding it was accidental- had to switch a plan from inset to full overlay and found a problem the drawer symbol I was using. Discovered this "feature" when trying to figure that out. Also noticed something I never did before- I can group select wall cabinets only, or base cabients only- however if I click the full height cabinet and group select it picks all the cabinets not just the talls.

Take the manufacturer's door, add glass and put in your user library.

To send entire plan use "back up entire plan" to an empty folder- zip and send.

Which means that if you had to use a special doorstyle for anything- like framed lower drawers when top row is a slab- you have to change each individually. Also it will not affect the type of overlay- IOW you can't get it to go from frameless to framed or to inset.

At first I misread your post thinking you just wanted a full half circle front- went to post that then reread-anyway since I'd already made one that way I went back to it and made the back "same as front" so it is possible in Chief. But what Joe said-few if any would build it, even worse to install, certainly would want to pay for it.

Thanks bunches. I can get easily confused these days, big help

As suggested I always draw at least 4 walls. Print only from layout and select use current screen when sending to layout which makes fitting easier. Most of the time I also draw adjacent rooms at least roughly, though often to accurate dimensions. In Chief it is so easy that I see no reason not to. It only takes a few extra field measurements and a few minutes. I keep templates for raised ranch and split, which would take longer to set up. Or drag out an old job that was completely drawn and do a save as. I can just adjust those to suit the situation which is quick. Clients really like that. It allows them (and me) to understand flow better, perspectives are more realistic (include the view out of their window, patio door, for backdrop. In special cases take a photo of an adjacent room and place a billboard in the doorway) Most of my competitors don't bother so it sets me apart. It lands jobs. Small extra effort, big advantage, might be worth considering.

I just always use custom counters, always made from only one cabinet in a run to avoid extra nodes and start with square corners. I like control

Not quite- it doesn't assemble cabinets rather it splits one. It takes a cabinet and allows you to split the face, vertically and or horizontally (don't see if there is a limit to how many) then assign each section as neded- i.e 72" cabinet- split vertical into 3 sections, make left a sink base, center a drawer base, and right a sink base. You can assign left and right stiles and a default separation, individual horizontal seperations as before. Perfect to make a double sink vanity, but doesn't accept two sinks. When I said the "old method" that is to make individual cabinets adjust stiles as needed then block- which is closer to mulling windows. That at least give me control over the sinks- top drawer hardware is done the same either way.

Thanks- I just thought there was some improvement here. Might as well go back to the old way of making double vanities in this case, thanks

Setting this on my toolbar- from what I can tell I need to have both "object painter" and "select properties to paint" ? IF I click "select properties to paint" first nothing happens If I select the "object painter" I get a spray can but have no control over what properties it uses If I select the OP then click properties I get a list. Is this how it works? or am I missing something somewhere?

Just tried the new feature, have half a dozen vanities to do in a house and thought this would make life easier.. Split the cabinet no problem- then tried to add two sinks. I can't figure it out- anyone try this? If you were successful what makes it work? Also- from what I can tell there is no way to eliminate hardware on the false drawers at the sinks, correct?

with your file if I click- - "make make room molding polyline" and leave it set to 0 I get what you got. -Do the same and set to 4" and I get what Arthur got. -make room polyline- then convert to molding polyline- get a pline with fewer nodes.

select all using ctrl+a, space bar or shift select a group then space bar, skip past what you want on, and shift select again

00.32 master lights and sun on

They are on a Pdf so can't be selected. That layer is locked so you can trace them to make your own profiles. They are scaled to actual size and are common profiles. I drew a few and placed them on the side to show the needed orientation to have prior to sending to the library.

Youdaman you too Scott thanks guys. Sunyaer might want to mark this as solved.

Joe, the material doesn't rotate with the object. I tried faces to see if they work differently but rotate a face also altered the size for some reason?? Great idea Scott, it keeps the grain going properly but that makes a mitered door not a rail and stile door. Still very useful though don't use them often I just took on a line that has quite a few and does them well (rare) I was not looking forward to making them with solids. Wish I'd thought of that some time back when I had to do a bunch of floor inlays for a client- using my limited brute force tactics took some time, this is easy. Still wonder what the magic trick is? Is it a secret? Where's Doug?

Those behave the same way the one I made in Chief (which also has the grain correct) does- that is click the eyedropper tool, select a texture, apply to the doors. IT will change either the rails or the stiles and panel depending on where you click. (middle and right in attached pic) So it takes an extra click and an extra material definition. Doors in the core catalog, along with many (most?) in the manufacturers catalogs show grain correctly for both rails and stiles AND the entire door changes when a new material is applied and it shows the new grain correctly. (left in attached pic) So the question is how to make a door that does that? I have tried blocking, exploding, adding faces, exporting in every file format and reimporting as a symbol. I did not mess with the exported files first but based on the sketchup import I don't see that as a likely solution.

I don't know how to do it ay other way than what I show. Which works but as you see adds a step when changing texture. Hopefully someone else knows an alternate. I've tried more than a few variants with no success. If no responses may try something over in the Q&A forum. I have at least one plan using catalog doors where the grain doesn't work once I changed textures and not sure what I did or how to fix and ought to find out.

If the frame is made from a single p-solid with another subtracted from it then all change at once- but grain also goes only in one direction. pic below Checked and don't see jaggedness you are talking about on my machine. Molding lines are straight as far as I can tell, perhaps the molding profile has some roughness and you can see it? Since you have the plan you can change any of the parts you think might help. Don't get why you had issues with the door I loaded? Sizing should have been x -3,3 and z 12" works properly for me? Why--3,3 pic below

Are you having trouble with the one I included? Checked and it seems to be working properly on mine. I use the -3,+3 for adding muntins.