DzinEye

Hey Cheryl... I've been wanting to try out doing this. Used a door from the library and modified it. Might work for you... Cabinet Door_KraftMaid_Raleigh.calibz

I still think it's broken... mine's not flushing

Here's that attic wall. Just a thin layer is why you're not seeing it. Note the difference in both sides of the garage.

Creative approach Robert! I think the flexibility of Chief to accomplish certain goals in many different ways is one of the attractions that many of us have to hanging around on this forum. It's a combination of puzzle solving, creativity and helping others that makes it somewhat addictive.

The walls will continue upward until they hit a ceiling or roof. You need to build roof/ceiling over the walls in the foreground. Note that you have interior wall showing as your exterior wall (white walls next to deck railing). Are you using automatic roof function or building manually? Looks like you're building manually. Why not try having Chief build automatically, then adjust as needed.

Set up your layout the way you want it, then pull down File / Template / Save as Template

Hmm... that could be to build a solid the size of the entire room, then use solid subtraction to remove everything but the columns.

Salahuddin, It is true that this software was designed more for typical western-style wood framed or masonry residential construction, but as the guys above have implied, you CAN do it with this software, but you will have to do a lot of things manually. If you will have an engineer, and a curtain-wall/aluminum storefront specialist involved, and you just need to provide the basic look of the building for them it will be okay. For the curtain wall, just use a glass wall type, and then 4" or so inside of that glass wall use an invisible wall all the way around to separate the floors from the glass wall, and make the space between the walls 'open to below'. You'll have to make polyline solids to represent the glass framing. Good luck.

To not trap snow you'd either have to have a gigantic gable that sheds to both sides of the house, or design the plan so the front entry and porch juts out beyond the rest of the house instead of being recessed. That's a pretty big plan change, but I see it being doable. Really only the front porch gable would need to extend out beyond the rest of the front. You could have a porch roof all across the front, gabling up at the entry. I would also recommend massaging the plan so the Living Room is centered behind the entry, and recess that closet you have out on the front porch so it doesn't disrupt.

Robert... I'm curious how you do this? I assume your plate is flush with outside of foundation, and then there's 1/2" plywood. So for the siding on the foundation... 1/2" PT sleepers and short screws, or just glue or ?

Really depends what you want it to be and if you just want it to look like something or if you want it to be modeled like it would actually be constructed. You can just 'paint' the walls with whatever material you want to just look the part... if you want to model actual construction then you'd need to make your wall definition match what you want... or for applied material, like tile or thin brick for instance you 'could' use a wall material region, but I'd probably go the wall definition route for this much area.

Lot's of info needed to really provide you the best advice... but here's a suggestion. You didn't ask for this, but generally speaking I feel garages should fall back from the front of the house instead of being dominate. I changed it a bit to make it a little less dominate than the giant gable you had.

Looks like there should be a 2nd floor but it's not there? Still a work in progress?... or stairs just to access the attic? Is main roof 12:12 and others 10:12 on purpose?

What things are you locked into? E.g.: can the plan change AT ALL in order to allow certain changes to the roof? ... do you HAVE to have all Gables everywhere? If you're in snow country, are the low pitch roofs you're showing going to be okay? Is the giant attic over the garage particularly wanted, or just a result of the way the roof is currently working?

Post the plan...

Somebody was just wishing for this in another post near the top somewhere.

LOL!... it's an infinite fall.... could be fun for a while.

Hmm.. still sounds like you're saying the ext. wall is automatically jogging due to that interior wall. Anyway... saw this a while ago, which may solve the problem. Pull back the interior wall a couple feet and draw a short piece of room divider wall perpendicular onto the end of it, then drag that perp. room divider wall back to the exterior walls which should pull your interior wall with it. Sometimes that keeps things from snapping in ways you don't want.

Yep!!.. just like that. Not sure why, but when I drew my railing walls and completed the 'room' they would immediately drop down below grade. Behavior I didn't expect. I was drawing them over the basement foundation walls which I had already drawn by dragging them out from under the house, so that probably had something to do with it. Ok...I just tried again drawing the railing walls first and it worked... so that was it. Not sure why it won't work right the other way though.

Not sure if you're asking me or the OP, but I'm showing a foundation wall on the foundation level. Railing wall on top is what I first tried, and it wasn't working right.

Are you saying that you want the interior wall to remain offset a little, but the short exterior wall keeps jogging over to be in-line with it?

Use regular walls for the driveway (but should probably be made of CMU or conc.), then make that room Open to below, and set room height to 3' or whatever height you want your walls... then put a cap on the walls. By the way... if this is a real project... not sure a car could actually make the turn to get in/out of that garage down there.

Ha ha!... that's like saying 'those of you who are good drivers out there'... we're ALL good drivers... damnit.

Look for the masonry saw in the Tools pull-down

Ha ha... actually I always have that checkbox checked because I regularly share projects with an interior designer who uses HD Pro. The OP has another thread where she was seemingly entertaining upgrading to X12 is why I mentioned... but she hasn't yet responded to Eric's or my ask of what version she's running. Anyway... in the mirror thread (per Eric's post above) it appears he's now taken the model further than I have, so his may be more useful to her. Anywhooo... sure FWIW here it is... Roof plan II.zip