DzinEye

You sound a bit like the Dos Equis man there Joe. The most interesting man in the world...

Hi Kevin, Your ridge isn't flat because the roof plane(s) you're using for it are not at 90° (perpendicular) to the main roof. While in a roof plan view, start drawing a roof plane perpendicular to your main roof by starting at that intersection I've shown in red. Pull out a rectangular new roof and stretch it up to where the ridge would be. Select your front triangular roof plane and copy the ridge height from the DBX. Go back to your new rectangular roof plane and lock the baseline, then paste the ridge height you just copied. Now just shape that new rectangular roof and use the join roof tools to join with the main roof, etc..

Here are two solutions that assume either the front 3 planes are 10:12, or the two side planes are 10:12. Of course... it's possible that none of them are. But it's definite that nothing matches the roof plan.

There you go Glenn... you just beat me to the punch. I think your first diagram is correct...or closest to correct.

Maybe you don't really need this degree of accuracy, but in looking carefully at the as-built roof, you can see that the two roof planes that join to form a short ridge at 90° to the main roof do not actually come down to the eave edge of the roof. Therefore it's possible those angled roof planes actually are 10:12.

Just back from the doc's to see this. Yep... was going to say the roof slopes would be different. But is it okay if they only built the slope to four decimal places precision instead of six ? Kevin... you better go climb that roof and check.

Using CAD detail from view makes it pretty quick to make... as long as you leave the glass pattern as it is Striped Glass Door.calibz

Kevin, did Robert get you sorted out? Sorry, if I'd noticed you had included the plan originally my "help" might've been somewhat helpful.

If your contract with Owners does not include you taking care of the permitting process then sounds about right. I use engineers to do both the calcs and the engineering drawings. Owner pays the engineer directly, but we communicate a lot to make sure everything is copacetic between us. I send 2D cad baseplans for them to work from, along with PDF of all elevations, 3D views etc. Engineer gives me their drawings when done and I take care of submittal, plan check comments, etc..

Well... if one was trying really hard to hide the link I think Kevin did it about as well as could be done.

Gahh... didn't even notice he'd included the plan file.

Here's OOB Brick 4... how's it compare with your wall def ?

Kevin, did you auto-build your roof or ? I did, and the baseline lines up with outside of the framed wall (not the brick). I used the OOB brick 4... do you have a custom wall def ? I have a feeling this may have to do with location of main layer in your wall def.

I tried making a dbl wall for the upper wall to get it closer, but it also isn't quite right since it frames up to the plate. Didn't have any problem with the frieze being at the surface of the brick though, even before I tried the double wall approach.

By 'data' I assume you're talking about materials list(s)? Right, of course that getting the framing to actually model correctly is a whole-nuther thing.... although not sure I'm following you on "you'd still want your valley's to connect" ?... There wouldn't be valley framing in the lower roof plane if it's California Framed.

Yep, I believe you got it David... generally referred to as California Framing. If you want it modeled that way then pretty sure you have to do some things manually. If it's a simple roof as stated (two intersecting gable roofs) I'd just auto-build then modify the underlying roof plane.

I kind of remember going through various bouts of agony with different driver install issues like this over the years. Thankfully none in a long while. It may not work for you, but I vaguely recall having to first uninstall the current driver.

Huh? You must've misunderstood me. I meant the railing type you had already used in the upstairs hall. The last piece, (on the angled wall) was different thus it wasn't connecting. I was just telling you how to quickly make it match and get it to connect.

Looks good, I think you nailed it! What'd you end up doing?

I would say the surface is anything above the plywood sheathing...but like Chop says, may depend on how you want it to finish with other roof types, if any other will be present. For un-vented roof, if it's an available option for you (is this a real project or theoretical?) , I would recommend closed-cell spray foam directly into the rafter space. You'll avoid having that insulation hump on top of the roof which you'll either have to have a very wide fascia to hide or leave a step down which isn't all that aesthetically pleasing. There are other benefits to the closed cell too.

Yep... couldn't agree more. Experienced sorrow a few times before learning. If a project lay dormant for a while you forget how much manual fixing you did on the elevations. Then it picks up and need to do a little something to the plan and not thinking about it do an update and everything done on the elevations, much or all not even effected by the change... up in smoke.

What, you don't like the kids to see you using that one?

Ya... that AND you forgot to sand down one of the plugs

Damn Robert, you whipped out that boat-load of special tinkering pretty quickly.

Only thing I thought would be more helpful is the new ability to specify whether a post forms at the ends of a railing... then tell it not to form at the top of the stringer where it should level out with the floor.