DzinEye

Make it a porch and just set the room height to the height of the 2nd story. Can't tell you the best way to do the columns based on the stick-figure drawing... would depend on what's wanted. If wide columns as they should be based on the height, then I'd probably make each of them from four walls in order to make easy use of pony wall feature to get lower stone and upper stucco. I know you didn't ask, but FWIW, based on what I see it doesn't appear to me that the columns can possibly be wide enough to balance out the height you're going for... they're going to look too tall and skinny. I would argue for a lower entry...but if that's an existing window behind it'll have to be changed or removed.

Nice Eric. This never really bothered me enough to get rid of it, but nice to know it's not a big deal if I want to.

Did you figure it out?

Well darn it... I thought I was going to have the answer for you! A railing will show up...so I thought great, I'll make it an 8' tall 'solid' railing, but when I make it 'solid' style it disappears... I guess because Chief then see's it as a 'wall' and not a railing. So I suppose you 'could' still make an 8' railing using a custom 'panel' or make it with 16" o.c. balusters using stud size material, then skin with material areas or p-solids, but probably the symbol is going to be the way to go.

To my mind there's no way it would be worth modeling a very detailed one-off door like that unless the clients themselves specifically selected that door and were interested in paying me to model it correctly (which has happened exactly once)...or I knew I'd be using it again and again and again...or I doubled my fees.

Or use Photoshop / Gimp

Looks a basic cathedral ceiling with a soffit on the left side. Open the rooms DBX, go to the structural panel, uncheck Room has Flat Ceiling, which will make it a cathedral ceiling. Then in the cabinets pull-down select the soffit tool and place it where needed and stretch it out the size you want it. In elevation or 3D view you can adjust it too. BTW.. it says you're on X12 and I was going to send you a copy of your plan I modified in X12, but it says you're on an older version.

If there's a secret to finding it I'd like to know too, but in the mean-time... seeing as you got the 'white wrench'... so as you say, it's not used, but in your defaults... and since it's called 'Roof Legend'... I'm thinking you might look carefully in all of your roof related defaults? (You probably will say you did... but one never knows! )

If you open an entirely new plan and try it do you get the same result? If so, that seems to me to say that there's something you should contact Chief about. If it works in a new plan there's something corrupted in your current plan and you might try copying everything into a new plan file.

Thank you Dermot! Good information. The only time I've 'completely broken' stairs it's to try to do something different to one section than the other, NOT to move them apart, so I could never get the desired results and thought this was a short-coming of the complete break tool. To be honest, I still feel like it is a bit of a short-coming since there isn't a clear path (without seeing your above commentary) to doing what I thought the complete break tool should do. Currently with 'completely broken' stairs the section one selects is the only section that highlights and the only section which shows in the dbx when that section is opened, which is probably why you say that it's not obvious to try the shift select method to get just alter that one section. That is a HUGE hidden feature which should not be a secret. Now that I know it's all good, but I would still opt that Chief makes a completely broken stair section be individually alterable without any further tweaks... and instead add a tweak like multi- selecting both sections if one wanted to alter both sections.

When is a 'complete break' not a complete break... when using the 'complete break' stair tool. This would be somewhat easier with the complete break stair tool, to break the stairs and turn off the railing on the upper portion where you don't want the railing, but it doesn't work. Even if it worked there would still be some issues. Perhaps one of the guru's knows another way, but for a kinda-sorta solution that I've used, turn off the railing on that side and manually draw the lower railing, select 'follows stairs' in the railing dbx. Won't work with every railing type (e.g.: balusters direct into treads) and if you want perfection you'll have to manually model the top bit where it's under the ceiling using p-solids.

Is the layer you drew the molding on turned on in the view you're looking for it ?

Draw an exterior wall separate from your building and insert the windows onto it.... will they mull and arch?

Using this method I get this bit of wall in the doorway which I can't get rid of. How did you work around that?

I got this one from one of the forum posts a while back... could be wrong but I think Perry or Chopsaw might've uploaded it. It's pretty much the same as the one in the library but it's got red graphics. FP Wall Vent.calibz

Use Auto Floating dormer.... place it right on the exterior wall where you want it. There's a radio button for shed roof in the Dormer DBX Only thing you need to do that's non-auto is put a couple breaks in the main roof and pull back the overhang flush to the wall in front of the dormer.

What roofline did you extend? Too hard to figure out what you're talking about without your attaching the plan as Eric suggested above.

There are many ways, manual and automatic and combination. This example is an Auto Floating Dormer, I just placed it right at the wall, then broke the main roof in two places in front of the dormer and pulled back the overhang. Limitation on this is you can't pull back flush with the sides of the dormer or it will break. However you can explode the dormer and then modify the main roof without affecting the dormer... just make sure the dormer is how you want it before exploding it.

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00797/creating-a-soldier-course.html

Nope... ; (

That looks just swell! Never noticed either. Also that doesn't look like a 9.5" deep header per your dbx. Frame with a non-arched door then change to arch and don't rebuild framing... Grrr?

Give her a roll of tracing paper

By the way... I haven't tried it... but I have an inkling that this issue might also be resolved by putting the stone into the main layer like with the foundation solution. My hunch is that there's some hiccup being caused by the thickness of the stone layer being outside of the main layer and how Chief handles connections of different elements at corners.

Boy Oh boy... that was a challenge... This is the only solution I could come up with. Break the roof plane right down at that overhanging corner and pull it into the stone veneer. You might have to select 'No Special Snapping' in the roof DBX. I first did it with that whole edge of the roof plane for which I did have to choose no special snapping... but limited it to that little corner and it still works. May not be quite what you want, but better than the jumbled mess

True that... except as I suggested in one of my responses, I didn't know if he wanted to maintain some small separation of the components so they show up more clearly in a detail.