DavidJPotter

Members
  • Posts

    3235
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DavidJPotter

  1. There are at least two basic ways to handel unwanted holes in terrain: 1. Turn off the setting in Terrain Specification dialog "Hide Terrain Intersected by Building" or 2. Using a slab, poly-line solid, soffit or other object type to plug the hole setting its material to "Grass" or indicated material DJP
  2. That type of unwanted anomaly are bad or poor wall connections. Redo the connections until they appear right in both plan and camera views (you connect and disconnect and then reconnect such junctions over and over until they snap together properly). The main thing to apply is the intention that they behave and persist until you get good behavior. DJP
  3. I suppose this sort of thing is a rite of passage or so it seems to me. The day that you fully realize and understand that only you and nothing or no one else is responsible for outcomes. The other realization is that "Gone" is GONE in some cases. I had such a episode back in 1999 and since then I have taken steps to make sure that I never loose a flipping thing: I manually save (F3 or CTRL-S) while I work so I never have to then depend upon automatic-mechanical devices to "save" or back up my work. When a plan starts to show evidence of "stress" I immediately save it as a new name as insurance against just this sort of thing occuring. Additional hard drives are cheap, my time is not. This has happened to me once or twice in twenty two years of use of Chief Architect Inc software but once is too often. I also use a software program that backs up my stuff to another hard drive automatically. I have a Carbonite account as a further back up. How long it takes you to personally take steps to protect your data is the wild variable. Join the Club. DJP
  4. Yes, they should be. You can import his layer sets and wall definition files if he shares them with you by exporting them for you to then import but they should be resident in the plan file he shared with you (take a look and see). The difference is that such data should be part of the plan file shared but if you want that data available for future plans then you should consider exporting and then importing such data and makeing a template plan for that person's work or amending your profile plan at your choice. DJP
  5. "Stud-height" is controlled by way of the "Ceiling Height" setting of each room specification dialog - Structure Tab - Ceilng Height input value. It appears to me (us) that you have it set unusually low for just that room with the unwanted low roof planes. The software just reacts to settings per unit of time, so find the offending setting or settings and then all will be well. The software just does what it is told to do or in a lot of cases what one fails to tell or set and thus you get unwanted results. Straighten out your settings and it will deliver the expected results, always. DJP
  6. How to achieve various specific outcomes using programs other than Pro or Chief one carefully studies the data found in the "Build Roof" Dialog - "Roof Styles" tab where how to set up for each roof style is explained. Generally speaking, all Chief Architect Inc software does what it does based upon either factory default settings or those settings that the end user sets to guide the software to wanted results. When you know where those settings are, what they are for and what they then do, you have the software mastered where it then becomes a tool, to do otherwise (guessing, trial and error or being "intuitive") just takes too long when all the answers are already resident in the Help Files, Reference Manual and in help videos. It just costs some of yout time and attention followed by practice of what was studied. DJP
  7. I assume you have-use Chief Premier. Chief has manual editing tools for roof planes. You would select the offending roof plane then using the "Break Line" tool you edit the edge of the roof plane that is intruding into your room so that its edges are moved outside of the room's wall. It takes some practice to get this smoothly done but it is a skill you need to develop and use. Here is a related You Tube video where I display some manual roof editing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgJ_gq4-qQA DJP
  8. Your image shows that you have turned on "Boxed Eaves" but that is just an attribute of the eaves of roof planes. If you also waht your porch roof to be at the same level as the apparent roof soffit-eaves then you must set the "Ceilng Height" of the porch to match that apparent eave height because they are controlled by two different settings (one in the build roof or roof plane dialogs and the other in the Room Specification Dialog of the porch. DJP
  9. If you used a back-clipped cross section or elevation camera you might have moved the saved camera icon for that view beyond the back-clip plane, thus making anything beyond that back-clip point invisible. It could be layers turned off for that camera view type (check and see). It will be one or the other I think. DJP
  10. On second thought I would agree that a ceiling plane would, overall work best. The last time I used a poly-line solid, I did not auto-frame the plan (that was unnecessary for that one). My answer was geared for a quick 3D solution or just for construction documents without framing. DJP
  11. Reading the Reference Manual is something I do on a regular basis (when all else fails in terms of guesses, trial and error), I first read the reference manual, cover to cover back in version 6 but since, I just read sections of it when I get stymied from time to time. There is too much to know and not all of it is required on a daily basis. Advising others to read the Reference Manual is the most commonly given advice that is consistantly not taken by most people. You would think that ignorance is somehow a modern virtue the way people cling to stupidity these days, I am glad that you and some others take the time and show personal responsibility over and above what is "normal" these days. DJP
  12. Phyllis, Once you send those cross section views to layout they are editable, line by line using the "Edit Layout" tool, I mean that is what that tool is for - for editing and cleaning up Chief's 3-D errors and extra or missing lines. If you wanted to 3D model a sloped ceiling, I would add a poly-line solid to emulate the sloped ceiling in camera views. It is all a matter of appearances and aparancies as opposed to actualities in our racket. DJP
  13. CAD Details are dynamically connected to the layout view where they were sent. any changes to that exact instance of the detail will update (it has to be the original instance and not a copy for this to be true). No, each elevation would need to be manually opened and then closed to update them, one at a time. Render views would need to be edited or redone per instance. That is why it is often called "work". DJP
  14. If you mean "Rotate the entire plan" (building) I do not recommend doing that at all ever. If you mean 'rotate the camera viewpoint" then I do not understand your question. Frankly I do not use the spherical backdrop "feature", never have anyway. But if you get unwanted results that is evidence enough that your procdure or actions are falty. I commonly use site-digital photographs for backdrops and they are only good for the vector they were taken in per render view. I tried the spherical backdrop when it was first added several versions ago and found it unimpressive and so never bothered with it again thereafter. DJP
  15. I agree with Dennis but also I would point out that the internal render engine is very fast compared to Pov-Ray, you can watch it develop on your screen and cut it off when you have a decent render view. Most of my interior renders take about ten minutes each for very nice products. It takes some practice to adjust material and lighting properties but within a few minutes I can see whether I need to stop and make adjustments and then start a new render view using the ray-tracer. How long it takes depends mainly upon how you set material and light properties, only secondary is the speed of your PC. Only use just the right number of lights per view (all light sources in the entire plan-all floors are "on" unless you edit them and their intensity per view) and each unnecessary light source (one that does not directly contribute to the view being rendered) makes the render time multiples longer, so minimum number is best per render. DJP
  16. Michael, I own and use all Home Designer named titles, versions 6-2015. I own and use actively, versions of Chief 7-X6. In terms of the stair tool there is not enough difference between Home Designer Essentials (their least expensive title) and X6 in terms of function and features (Home Designer Pro and Chief Permier Lite, Interiors and Full version have a few more check boxes and inputs but otherwise they are identically programmed whether on a Mac or PC). I know what I am talking about since I make it part of my business to know so. I was not expressing an opinion but rather a fact. DJP
  17. if they are available from Autodesk then they are probably available in AutoCAD native 3D dwg format which can be directly imported, a symbol at a time using the "Symbol Wizard" in Chief and then added to your LB. DJP
  18. I just download the libraries I need and want and every so often, hit the "Update Libraries" button found under "Library". No need to make it more complicated than that. DJP
  19. sarahemeline, The stair tool draws stairs from the level (floor) you draw them on to the next level or floor above. The stair tool works the same in Home Designer Architectural on a PC or Mac precesely the same, it is identical in function and action in Chief Premier (no difference at all what so ever). Just try again with that first datum in mind and you will get them to work. DJP
  20. I have used this software since the mid nineties and taught it to others since 2000. I do remodeling and custom homes. Back in 2005 I had several large home builders as clients which made up over half of my business per year who have since gone on to sell insurance or cars. I remain because of my skill with and love for this software and what it enables me to create and do. Your own love of what you do is more important than what you use to do it with but Chief Architect, its creators and those that use it on a daily basis are a positive, creative group dedicated to helping others to see their dreams come to reality and that is a good group to be associated with. DJP
  21. Carefully study and then play with (change settings and then view the results of having done so) the Cabinet Specification Dialog and its tabs and settings. There is a lot of choices and functionality built into that tool for you to use as you wish, once you find out how it works. DJP
  22. When I need to make a stair object with exactitude, I commonly do a "View to CAD" of the stair cross section camera view that I can then micro-manage as a 2D CAD Detail. This allows me to show exact reser dimensions, Tread depth, rise angle and being a 2D CAD detail, it stays put as such (I can control each line and closed poly-line as I choose). Where I am not required to do this, I just use a dynamic saved camera view (cross section) and add text and dimensions as necessary. Both ways work. one is a little more trouble when total exactness is required. DJP
  23. Commonly I just make a series of "open Below" rooms that line up, floor to floor. On each floor I place a sliding door with appropriate trim. This serves fine in plan views. If you require a cross section then you can carefully add the cab as 2D CAD overlays on the cross section. I have never been asked to model an elevatior with the doors open and I suppose the quality of rendering would dictate how much detai needed to be added as poly-line solids, molding poly-lines etc. One can get quite fancy and detailed at need. DJP
  24. Framing, especially in this case Deck planking are individual 3D objects on their own named layer as opposed to a texturized material merely being applied to a flat surface, you build deck planking and apply a texture to those individual plank objects or do not build deck planking and apply a material to that flat surface). When you do both it looks a little confused, so choose one method or the other but not both is my advice. DJP
  25. Dear Scott, I only post when I have something to say and there are many competent voices here with room for all of them to be heard. Shared Wisdom and fun is the best goal of this forum and no one has that market cornered, nor should anyone be haloed above others as well. Thank you but just keep doing what you do, that is enough for me and for many others. DJP