robdyck

Is that a hard no? You could be limiting your options. My work would exceed your expectations and needs, but I'm 3 hours away and relocating is not an option for me.

type "narciss" into the library search bar. Once you've found it, you may want to add some search key words to its attributes.

Yessir. I take it that's not the norm in your region. It varies out west regionally, but also by builder and plumber preferences.

The 'Ceiling Hole' portion is greyed out because there is no ceiling. This is controlled (that is to say 'removed') by your 2nd floor room 'Open Below'. The skylight appears fine...what would you like to be different? Made some changes for you...take a look. 993208181_Skylightproblem.plan

For the same reason that walls are measured to framing...which of course we can choose in our wall type spec. Oh wait!! How about the same type of choice for a roof assembly? Now we're talking! For you it might be sheathing. For me it would always be framing. 3 key elevation points: top of sub-fascia baseline elevation ridge elevation And please, don't measure to the aluminum strip of fascia that covers the sub-fascia in 99% of north american homes. Ok it might only be 97%...

There was a time, many years ago when Chief's Fascia Tope referenced the top of the sub-fascia. I think that was x7. The inconsistency of referencing framing elevations for some points and finish elevations for other points has been brought up often, in suggestions as well as in feature requests. This current system really gets weird when you have multiple pitches that should have the same sub-fascia elevation. It's not cool...but I got used to referencing the baseline height whereas I used (again many years ago) always reference the fascia height...it was just more familiar to me. I also don't like that roof planes measure to the finished fascia instead of to the sub-fascia.

I didn't find what you're referring to... which is why I asked here. What I ended up doing was taking a series of screen captures of the various preference settings (in order) and using that as my guide to match them up on the new computer.

Quickly Rendered in Chief X11 (this model was produced for the marketing rendering only) @VirtualDesignIs this type of quality is acceptable? Feel free to contact me if you're interested in assistance.

Answered at the 26:00 mark of the video. Best to just take some notes! https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10240/managing-files-locally-and-on-the-cloud.html?playlist=139

I'm setting up a new PC and I'm having trouble figuring out how to migrate my Preferences to the new PC. I've read everything I can find but I'm not understanding how to keep Chief 'looking the same' on my new machine. Things like colors, crosshairs, icon size, etc. I haven't had any issue with copying all other relevant files. Am I missing something obvious or do I need to make notes from the Chief Preferences on the old PC and then adjust them manually on the new one?

You can do better in Chief with some additional training before you start dealing with additional apps. Have you seen the preview videos for X13? It looks like it'll also take a few steps in the right direction.

Do I dare even start with a legend calling out my own deficiencies?

Interestingly enough, if the room name is the first field, then it organizes them alphabetically and all the blanks are first, so that's a really easy way to add it in with text.

Good idea. That's pretty quick...I already have a Custom field for My Room Names. And it's easy to select all the electrical items on the exterior using the Match Properties tool. Then I'll manually enter 'Exterior' for those items in that field...the rest will be automatic. Is there a simpler way than that?

Plan?

In an electrical schedule, (or any other for that matter), is there a way to get a room name attribute to show up in the schedule for items place on the exterior of the house? Right now, when I include the Room Name column, items on the exterior have a blank space in that column. I'd like that to fill in as 'Exterior'...without going to text of course.

That's like 3K CAD, right? I think I just bought the 395 for $3060...whoops! Wait a minute...Just got my 3080 in a whole new machine today!! For those shopping, it was NOT budget priced.

I regularly have files exceeding 100 MB because of furniture symbols. To address the speed, you either simplify your model or throw money at a faster machine. A couple of other things to check: -purge CAD blocks - purge materials - merge materials

Now I'm tempted! Just hovering over that arrow...nah, not today!

For Sure! But it doesn't work for everything that needs to be rebuilt. I'm just stretching an attic wall and F12 won't get the frieze to build on the new portion. Open & close on the roof plane does! So I've certainly got a habit of just doing a double-click then press Enter right away.

@pdiaz4 Follow the steps in the video. Couldn't be easier.

The secret to the blend...Then, select the wall, open the dialog box, then close it. The material will then blend.

In Plan View, select the polyline solid, move it away from the wall, then back towards the wall. it should 'bump' up against the siding and stop. OR use the 'point-to-point' move tool to accurately place the solid to the corner of the wall. Then, select the wall, open the dialog box, then close it. The material will then blend. YOU MUST BE ACCURATE!!

Draw a polyline solid in elevation view. Draw it on the wall, then move it to the left the correct amount. Set it's thickness as desired. Remember, it will be on the wall, so if you set it to be 4" thick, you'll need to move it 4" back to be flush with the wall cladding. Once it's flush, the material will blend perfectly. Don't forget to set it's layer to whatever works for you. For example, I have an Exterior Trim layer.