robdyck

I'm not sure if this is reasonable, but the simplest solution I've found (it still sucks) is to use a shadow board at gables. You can specify a molding and it's offsets so it just covers the existing soffit, and give it a copy of the soffit material, rotated 90 degrees. There will still be some issues almost cetainly.

There's also the super lazy way which is to not show any trusses at all. That's my go-to!

This it can do. It just won't create the trusses. If you really want to create a trussed roof fast, then the transform / replicate tool and the multiple copy tool will be your best friends. You should be able to draw all the trusses for that house in about 5 minutes.

No Problem. If you really want to show truss framing in your section views, then you can do it the lazy way and only create a single truss just in front of each section camera. Then, it's not nearly as much truss editing.

It's a fair amount of work to create all of them. And because a truss supplier provide a truss package, I'd suggest there is little benefit to modelling all of them.

If you have a ceiling on the 2nd floor and a roof on the 2nd floor, you should be able to create a truss on the 2nd floor.

For more accurate help, you will need to post the plan so that myself or someone else can see what you've done, and try to help solve it.

Hi Jonathan, I assume you are aware that Chief doesn't auto-build trusses. First, make sure the roof is at the elevation that you want. 2nd, if you want to see roof framing, manually draw all your trusses. Third, build roof framing.

I see you attached the plan but you forgot to attach the C-note!

You will need to boil the flash drive in a pot of water for 15 minutes, then rapidly cool it using dry ice. Oh no, I got a down vote for that... which means somebody tried it! And understandably, then gave me a down vote. I must say I am sorry, it was an honest mistake...I meant to say dry rice, NOT dry ice. Whoever downvoted me, try the updated method, I guarantee you'll be pleased!

This same method can be helpful when you have headroom issues at a set of stairs. As shown in Joey's example, you'll only get vertical transitions. So if you want an angled transition, you'll need to make the 'room' large enough so you can get a small piece of drywall and hammer it through your screen into the Chief model...I mean use a p-solid to model the angled transition.

What Joey is saying, is not to use a hole, but rather create a small room on the floor above the window so that you can specify a shallower floor framing thickness.

These are the 2 main areas that become affected. I grew up building in a region where everything was dimensioned to the sheathing, but then spent 20 years framing in a region where it was always to the stud. The long & short of it is this....If you switched from sheathing to stud, you'd wonder how you could have been so stupid in the past. If you switched from stud to sheathing, you'd wonder why you're doing something so stupid now.

Tom Silva: Every now & then you get lucky!

This is best to note near the beginning of a plan set in your general notes. In Medicine Hat for example, no one frames to the sheathing, but go an hour north, and no one seems to have ever heard of measuring to the stud. So, when I know the regional preference, I make sure to note this in my General Notes.

Take that pony wall on the 2nd floor and copy-in-place on the first floor. Delete it on the 2nd floor.

Because now that's only a $40K upgrade instead of $50?

And FWIW, I would only use images for this purpose just to make sure Chief doesn't sneak a layout view away from me while I'm not looking.

Hey Kevin, you just gotta be a bit more careful placing these items. Space them out and you'll be fine! kevs_hood.mp4

It's not odd, they aren't in the same location!

FWIW, I did report this several years ago.

I've done this type of thing without any of these difficulties, however I would have approached it differently. I wouldn't have used 3 cameras in the same location. I'd have replicated them away from each other in either the y or x axis. I also wouldn't have used 3 separate symbols. Rather, each view would show additional items, not different items. I'd have started with the framing and a camera, replicate, then add sheathing, replicate then add finish material. These won't jump...I guarantee it. I've been using the same camera views and updating and exchanging images hundreds of items over the years. They always land in the same spot.

Notice that the camera jumps between view2 and view 3. That's odd.

Don't use live views!!! Problem solved!

Maybe this would be a good starting point. You can always try copying a 24x12 tile normal map for grout joints.