robdyck

The reasons I wouldn't (and don't use it) is: to not bugger up my left and right elevation cameras, to leave a few site plan and terrain items to keep the building aligned where I want on the plan grid, usually referring to the x-axis.

I certainly don't have that issue. Make sure you use "Edit Area (All Floors)" and then ensure you are zoomed out far enough to create a large enough Edit Area polyline. It can also help to create a temporary centerline that you will use to reflect the plan about that centerline.

The only thing I can think of that's similar is General Plan Defaults / Ignore Casing for Opening Resize. This will nicely allow a door's casing to butt up to the drywall layer, but not the inverse. A wall can still be moved to cover the casing.

NO. I also manually build parts on plenty of stair types. It is terrible, but the more you do, the quicker you get at it. I've have submitted requests that all the components for stairs be editable like an architectural block, but to no avail. Placing newel posts manually is currently the only way to properly control their location.

To change the default program that opens those files, right click on the file select Open With>Choose another App then select X12 and select the "Always use...." check box.

Right click on the downloaded file and select "Open With"...then choose X12.

What's wrong with having to cut individual pieces of siding or drywall or smear on some stucco just to cover up the holes? Don't you have a tool trailer beside your desk like I do? And don't forget to wear a helmet!

Dealt with this hundreds of times. A p-solid is the simplest. Elevation view, draw it on the wall, size and shape it (accurately so it blends), replicate it back 1", paint it, place it on 'material region' layer.

And wouldn't it be nice if when you place a cad detail from the library that an option to keep the original default and layer settings would be available?

Kyle, you should submit a feature request to Chief for this. I have, but I feel like it needs more support. These types of things are a huge suck on drawing productivity.

A low slope roof would be necessary for sure. There are other options to at least consider or present to the client. https://struxure.com/

Well obviously! I second that motion...

Sounds like an emergency committee meeting is necessary to discuss revisions to the budget. All members are encouraged to attend. Pizza and beer will be provided by Newell's Designs! Dress code will be enforced. No plus one's.

If you post the plan, I'll take a look. I have some ideas as to what it might be. If you don't want to post it here, send me a PM and I'll send you my contact info.

For an electrical plan, I show a 220 plug centered on one side of the garage (although it seems to we'll need one on both sides sooner than later). From what I can tell, it seems most charging stations are not hard-wired.

For some reason, whenever there's a vaulted ceiling, Chief decides to bump the wall framing up to meet the roof structure. That's what is happening with your exterior wall.

Absolutely!

Nope. But you might find something interesting in Chief's Recorded Webinars.

That's me. Takes me back to when I was just a troublesome wee lad... but that's a different story and waaay off topic.

@HumbleChief How do you like them strapples? Use a lookout, stretch it, reposition it, replicate it, reflect 'em all about the peak.

You know you would! But I bet sometimes you'd slip up and call them strapping.

You would, wouldn't you?

You could also use ceiling planes for all soffits. This does NOT fall under the category of 'easier'! Let us know where you end up.

Umm, I don't think this works...almost all gable roof planes also have an eave and this is where we want the soffit going in opposite directions, right? Or am I missing something Michael?

A few other fairly quick options use a molding polyline around the exterior of the house for eave soffits. These can turned off on an edge-by-edge basis use a 3d molding at gables drawn in a section view that faces the gable end, but cuts the roof plane (for the snap points).