robdyck

You really should post the plan.

I've suggested to Chief that they add a column to wall definitions for section display control of wall layers. Then we could choose a separate fill for each wall layer and a weight and color for insulation. Of course we'd also need Chief to place these items correctly for auto fill to work better. Currently they are on top of wall framing, so every section view constantly requires the exact same edits (not a PITA at all)...that is, if you actually use the auto-fill tool.

An invisible wall, 1/2" thick, using your drywall material is very helpful for these situations. Place it at the same location as the break in the stairs, set to through wall at start and end. Break the 2x4 wall, and reverse the layers of one side.

It comes from the exterior material of the railing wall above it.

Hope it works for you!

Frieze settings using the roof dialog. The only thing it won't get right is the centering. The images below are all auto-built using the roof dialog box. If you feel like discussing it further, feel free to send me a PM.

I did not follow my own advice from yesterday and I've had half a dozen crashes just this morning. However I must say that the auto-save is working much better than it used to for me. It seems close to perfect, for which I am thankful... almost like it knows a crash is coming. I've got the latest driver for my graphics card, and my PC is well over minimum spec. so I'll send the plan in to tech support and I'll promptly return and post the simple fix that will be recommended shortly.

Speed. IMO it's faster to use a p-solid. And to be honest I usually use a 3d molding line (because it can be even quicker) but it's not what I'd suggest for most people. If you have an inherent knowledge of your elevations, then a ceiling plane can work just as well.

Also keep in mind that if any of those lines' properties are different than each other, they will not join. You can use the Object Eyedropper to select the properties from one line and apply them to other lines really quickly. This should also help ensure they can connect.

An invisible wall that is 1/2" thick can be helpful for creating a room within a room if you only need to adjust a portion of the closet's floor elevation. Then, take a section view through that room and use a p-solid to create the ceiling plane. That's what I do, paint it to the drywall material and place it on the Cabinet, Soffit layer. That's my suggestion. Keep in mind the solid will 'land' on the surface you draw it on and it will be 1" thick. So, once it is shaped, double-click and make it the finished thickness of the stairwell, or stretch it in plan view.

Have you edited the default floor platform as well as Floor 1 defaults?

Every now and then you get lucky!

It's probably best that your railing wall is as thick as the Newels. Then the railing should all be centered. That might give you an issue with the beams...

I hear you, and unfortunately there are no default settings for Electrical items that can be adjusted and then imported from one file to another. Try doing an Electrical Plan with an Electrical Schedule. It wouldn't make any sense to anyone because of all the weird names for Electrical Items. Essentially forces you to compile a massive User Library for existing items. To your original point, I'd probably make an architectural block or a library folder of a few items that I use regularly on custom layers. I use a library of my own MEP items so that the name of the item displays as the label and also reports neatly and sensibly in a schedule.

I'd bet heavily that it is! Anyone who does a lot of wall detail drawing has to get used to negative being positive in the x-axis. And there is no z-axis in a wall detail...

Copy one to your library, adjust it's settings.

End & Start

I'd start by making one, then convert the door & hardware to a symbol. Place this symbol in your plan and make a copy for the 2nd door. Use a Doorway for the actual opening. Do you know how to make a symbol of the door & hardware?

Of course the price of steel is a bit off of the norm these days, but it seems simpler than the typical OWWJ with wood webs and metal connector plates.

If we know the specific sizes you need, it may not be as difficult as you think.

That's right. The sofa can be re-sized but not using that tool.

@pswiseman 3D Molding Line

Dang-it, almost beat you to it!

I know you weren't asking me...these are similar https://www.redbuilt.com/products/open-web-trusses/ Any truss mfr using Mitek software / products could build these (it appears) https://www.mitek.ca/Products/Truss-Connector-Plates/POSI-STRUT-Webs/

@stager386 What was the size of the sofa that you need?