robdyck

If you post the plan, I'll take a look. I have some ideas as to what it might be. If you don't want to post it here, send me a PM and I'll send you my contact info.

For an electrical plan, I show a 220 plug centered on one side of the garage (although it seems to we'll need one on both sides sooner than later). From what I can tell, it seems most charging stations are not hard-wired.

For some reason, whenever there's a vaulted ceiling, Chief decides to bump the wall framing up to meet the roof structure. That's what is happening with your exterior wall.

Absolutely!

Nope. But you might find something interesting in Chief's Recorded Webinars.

That's me. Takes me back to when I was just a troublesome wee lad... but that's a different story and waaay off topic.

@HumbleChief How do you like them strapples? Use a lookout, stretch it, reposition it, replicate it, reflect 'em all about the peak.

You know you would! But I bet sometimes you'd slip up and call them strapping.

You would, wouldn't you?

You could also use ceiling planes for all soffits. This does NOT fall under the category of 'easier'! Let us know where you end up.

Umm, I don't think this works...almost all gable roof planes also have an eave and this is where we want the soffit going in opposite directions, right? Or am I missing something Michael?

A few other fairly quick options use a molding polyline around the exterior of the house for eave soffits. These can turned off on an edge-by-edge basis use a 3d molding at gables drawn in a section view that faces the gable end, but cuts the roof plane (for the snap points).

I'm not sure if this is reasonable, but the simplest solution I've found (it still sucks) is to use a shadow board at gables. You can specify a molding and it's offsets so it just covers the existing soffit, and give it a copy of the soffit material, rotated 90 degrees. There will still be some issues almost cetainly.

There's also the super lazy way which is to not show any trusses at all. That's my go-to!

This it can do. It just won't create the trusses. If you really want to create a trussed roof fast, then the transform / replicate tool and the multiple copy tool will be your best friends. You should be able to draw all the trusses for that house in about 5 minutes.

No Problem. If you really want to show truss framing in your section views, then you can do it the lazy way and only create a single truss just in front of each section camera. Then, it's not nearly as much truss editing.

It's a fair amount of work to create all of them. And because a truss supplier provide a truss package, I'd suggest there is little benefit to modelling all of them.

If you have a ceiling on the 2nd floor and a roof on the 2nd floor, you should be able to create a truss on the 2nd floor.

For more accurate help, you will need to post the plan so that myself or someone else can see what you've done, and try to help solve it.

Hi Jonathan, I assume you are aware that Chief doesn't auto-build trusses. First, make sure the roof is at the elevation that you want. 2nd, if you want to see roof framing, manually draw all your trusses. Third, build roof framing.

I see you attached the plan but you forgot to attach the C-note!

You will need to boil the flash drive in a pot of water for 15 minutes, then rapidly cool it using dry ice. Oh no, I got a down vote for that... which means somebody tried it! And understandably, then gave me a down vote. I must say I am sorry, it was an honest mistake...I meant to say dry rice, NOT dry ice. Whoever downvoted me, try the updated method, I guarantee you'll be pleased!

This same method can be helpful when you have headroom issues at a set of stairs. As shown in Joey's example, you'll only get vertical transitions. So if you want an angled transition, you'll need to make the 'room' large enough so you can get a small piece of drywall and hammer it through your screen into the Chief model...I mean use a p-solid to model the angled transition.

What Joey is saying, is not to use a hole, but rather create a small room on the floor above the window so that you can specify a shallower floor framing thickness.

These are the 2 main areas that become affected. I grew up building in a region where everything was dimensioned to the sheathing, but then spent 20 years framing in a region where it was always to the stud. The long & short of it is this....If you switched from sheathing to stud, you'd wonder how you could have been so stupid in the past. If you switched from stud to sheathing, you'd wonder why you're doing something so stupid now.